009. Tilla Jogian

Tilla Jogian is a hill located in District Jhelum. Its name means “Hill of the Jogis” or “Yogis.” It is an ancient site, considered sacred by Hindus for over two thousand years. The hilltop houses a large complex of several Hindu temples, which are now crumbling and in a state of neglect.

A local resident told me that until 1947, it was a thriving spiritual center. Hindu pundits lived here, maintained the temples, and performed daily prayers, while a large number of Hindu pilgrims (yatris) visited regularly. The path up the hill was well maintained and considered safe; women often used horses or mules to make the journey. In short, it was once a bustling and vibrant place.

After the upheaval of 1947, the Hindu community left the area, and the site has since been almost completely abandoned. The stone path leading up the hill is now deteriorating. The trail begins at the village of Bhet, on the northern side of the hill, and winds upward for nearly 3 kilometers, ascending about 500 meters. Be prepared for a challenging hike—especially for people like me, lazy city dwellers!

But once you're on top of the hill, you'll forget all your troubles. The scenery is breathtaking, with tall trees all around. The atmosphere is peaceful, serene, and refreshingly clean. The Forest Department maintains a rest house there, but it was closed when we visited on March 18, 2009. I recommend carrying enough drinking water and some food with you, as there are no shops or homes on the hill. It's also advisable to take a local person along as a guide. Be generous and respectful to the locals—they will be very helpful to you. (Keep this golden principle in mind always.)

Many famous people have visited this place over the centuries. Murad Baksh, also known as Ranjha—the hero of the romantic epic Heer Ranjha—came here to join the jogi order. Baba Guru Nanak Ji, the founder of the Sikh faith, also visited and stayed here for 40 days in meditation. Later, Emperor Jahangir visited the site as well. During the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, not only did he visit the place, but he also had a large water pond constructed, which still exists today and remains in good condition. During our visit, we saw many peacocks wandering freely around the area.

An old house in Bhet, at the foot of Tilla Jogian. (18.03.2009.)

Bhet Village.

Bhet village — starting point of the trail to Tilla Jogian. (18.03.2009.)

Trail to Tilla Jogian. (18.03.2009.)

Finally reaching the top of the hill. (18.03.2009.) 

A view of the temples at Tilla Jogian. (18.03.2009.)

Beautiful trees on the hilltop. (18.03.2009.)

Some details about Tilla Jogian. (18.03.2009.)

 A water Pond, built during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. (18.03.2009.)

Two cupolas on both sides of the stairs leading down to the pond. (18.03.2009.)

Another view of the pond. (18.03.2009.) 

View of two cupolas from inside the pond. (18.03.2009.)

The pond is of a considerable size. (18.03.2009.)

Nasir Mahmood. (18.03.2009.)

The temple complex. (18.03.2009.)

Path to the temple complex. (18.03.2009.)

Temples. (18.03.2009.)

Two temples or smadhis. (18.03.2009.)

A painting inside a temple. (18.03.2009.)

One of the many temples on the hill. (18.03.2009.)

View down the hill. (18.03.2009.)

Goats are enjoying an ideal atmosphere. (18.03.2009.)

A peacock. (18.03.2009.)

Thick, overgrown vegetation has covered many structures. (18.03.2009.)

Another temple, hidden in thick vegetation. (18.03.2009.)

A government rest house. (18.03.2009.)

Before making any plans to visit, keep in mind that this place is off the beaten track and far from any main road. So, do your homework: use Google Earth and study maps of the area. It is located at 32°51'35" N, 73°26'22" E.While traveling from Jhelum to Dina on the GT Road, pass through Dina and turn left just in front of the NLC. Head toward Gattar, and from Gattar, ask for directions to Bhet. The distance from GT Road to Bhet is about 29 kilometers.

There is also another road that starts from Rohtas Fort and leads up to the top of the hill, but I don’t have much information about that route. In any case, you will need a four-wheel drive for that path.With a little attention and promotion, this place could be developed into the "Murree" of this area.

Tariq Amir

May 16, 2014.

Doha - Qatar 

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