Wednesday, 11 June 2014

023. Monument Of John Nicholson & GT Road Of Sher Shah Suri

The Rebellion of 1857 is a landmark event in the modern history of India. During this uprising, which began in that year, the British came dangerously close to losing their Indian Empire. However, due to a general lack of public interest in history, many remain unaware of the full scope and significance of this rebellion. Where some knowledge exists, it is often derived from textbooks—limited in detail and shaped by narrow interpretations—leaving the impression that these events unfolded in some distant land called Hindustan.

It is true that the regions comprising present-day Pakistan were largely spared the widespread disturbances and upheavals of the mutiny. Nevertheless, some regiments stationed at Lahore, Sialkot, and Jhelum attempted to rebel. Due to poor coordination, their distance from the main centers of resistance, and—most crucially—the absence of public support, these efforts failed and were brutally suppressed. 

The most decisive factor was the strong support the British received from Punjabi Muslims, Sikhs, and the Pathans of the frontier regions—each group motivated by its own reasons. The Muslims of Punjab and the frontier, having been freed from Sikh domination, generally viewed British rule as more favorable and were content with the treatment they received. The Sikh population, though defeated, was treated with relative honour by the British. Moreover, they harbored resentment toward the Indian soldiers from the Indo-Gangetic plains. The Sikh rulers of eastern Punjab had their own vested interests and alliances with the British, which further strengthened their loyalty.

After the loss of Delhi in May 1857, the British shifted their focus to Lahore, making it the strategic center for efforts to retake the city. Under the leadership of Sir Henry Lawrence, the Governor of Punjab, they recruited large numbers of soldiers from the region and made extensive military preparations for the assault on Delhi.

One of the most prominent figures in these efforts was the charismatic Brigadier General John Nicholson. Born in Ireland in 1822, he served in the British Indian Army for many years, particularly in Punjab and the frontier regions. Nicholson developed a formidable reputation for fearlessness, strength, efficiency, bravery—and a notorious degree of cruelty. His self-esteem and authority were such that even senior officers hesitated to challenge him. He was admired by all ranks, from foot soldiers to high command.

Nicholson brought a measure of order to the volatile frontier regions, maintaining control over the tribal areas through a combination of effectiveness and severity. A staunch believer in the racial and political superiority of the British, he was a committed imperialist. As the historian William Dalrymple aptly described him, Nicholson was an "imperialist psychopath."

Briefly speaking, Brigadier Nicholson played a highly significant role in the British reconquest of Delhi. After months of preparation and fierce fighting, the British launched an all-out assault on the city on 13 September 1857. Nicholson personally led the charge on the Kashmiri Gate, where he was seriously wounded. He later died from his injuries on 23 September 1857. His death was widely mourned and described as a great national loss. He was buried near the Kashmiri Gate in Delhi, where his grave can still be seen today.

As mentioned earlier, Punjab remained largely peaceful during the 1857 uprising, which engulfed much of northern India. Consequently, there are very few monuments or structures in the region associated with the rebellion—except for one: a great obelisk erected in 1868 to commemorate the services of John Nicholson. Located on a hill by the Margalla Pass, it stands as an important historical monument. A drinking water fountain was also built beside the road at the site. Fortunately, both structures remain in very good condition to this day.

The monument is located at 33° 42' 10.90" N, 72° 49' 29.30" E, prominently situated on a hill and visible from several kilometers away. It lies just 15 kilometers from the Kashmir Highway and GT Road interchange, near the historic city of Taxila, alongside the Grand Trunk Road.

View of the obelisk from the southeast. (09.04.2009.)

A distant view of the obelisk in the background. (09.04.2009.)

A closer view from the southeast. (09.04.2009.)

Stairs leading to the monument on the western side. (09.04.2009.)

Looking towards Islamabad. (09.04.2009.)

Top of the obelisk. (09.04.2009.)

Base of the huge obelisk. (09.04.2009.)

Looking towards Taxila. (09.04.2009.)

Door of the obelisk. The door was closed and the watchman was not to be found anywhere. (09.04.2009.)

View of the great obelisk from the north.  (09.04.2009.)

Near the obelisk, at the foot of the hill and just beside the Grand Trunk Road, stand two small but remarkably beautiful buildings. Constructed in the Roman architectural style, these structures are part of the same memorial complex. They were built as water fountains to provide drinking water to travellers.

Beautiful building of the fountain. (09.04.2009.)

View from the hill. (09.04.2009.)

Another view of the fountain. (09.04.2009.)

Memorial
Brigadier General John Nicholson
(The above words are engraved on this building) (09.04.2009.)

View of the obelisk from the east. (09.04.2009.)

While exploring this monument, which is set in a stunning natural location, I came across another fascinating piece of history. Sher Shah Suri is renowned for many accomplishments, one of the most significant being the construction of the Grand Trunk Road, which he built from Peshawar to Bengal. Remarkably, on the northwestern side of the obelisk, an original section of this ancient road is still visible.

This is truly extraordinary, as I believe no other segment of the GT Road has survived in its original condition anywhere else. Its preservation is historically important, as it offers a rare opportunity to study the methods of road construction used nearly five centuries ago.

GRAND TRUNK ROAD
ORIGINAL PORTION OF THE GRAND TRUNK ROAD WHICH WAS CONSTRUCTED BY THE GREAT AFGHAN SOVEREIGN, SHER SHAH SURI, DURING HIS  REIGN FROM 1539 TO 1545 AD. AFTER THE DEATH OF ZAHEER-UD-DIN BABUR, SHER SHAH TOOK POWER AND BECOME MASTER OF BENGAL AND BEHAR. THE AFGHAN SOVEREIGN WAS ALSO A BUILDER AND A ROAD MAKE. THIS ROAD KNOWN AS "GRAND TRUNK ROAD" WAS ONE OF THE FOUR ROADS BUILT BY SHER SHAH SURI. ON THE EITHER SIDE OF THE ROAD WERE PLANTED FRUIT TREE. GRAIN AND FODDER WERE SUPPLIED FOR HORSES AND CATTLE, AT EACH CRAVANSERAI. 
Original portion of the GT road. (09.04.2009.)

A high standard of construction can be seen. Looks like roads built by the Romans in Europe. (09.04.2009.)

Kindly comment if you like this post. I shall appreciate any suggestions to improve it. Any correction or additional information is also most welcome and will be used with all due credit and appreciation. 

Tariq Amir

June 11, 2014,
Doha - Qatar 


Updates:

I first visited this monument in 2014. Later, I had the opportunity to visit it again on November 23, 2021. Below are a few pictures from this second visit.

View from the south. (23.11.2021.)

These stairs start from the old section of the GT Road and lead up to the tower. (23.11.2021.)

A full view of the tower. (23.11.2021.)

In front of the tower. (23.112021.)


THIS COLUMN IS ERECTED BY FRIENDS 

BRITISH AND NATIVES 

To the Memroy of 
Brigadier General John Nicholson. C.B.
who after taking a hero's part in four great wars for the 
defence of British India, _

CABUL:_______ 1840
1ST SEIKH WAR: _______ 1845
2ND SEIKH WAR: _______ 1848
SEPOY MUTINY: _______ 1857

AND BEING THUS RENOWNED FOR HIS CIVIL RULE IN THE PUNJAB. AS FOR HIS
SHARE IN THE CONQUEST, FELL MORTALLY WOUNDED ON 14TH SEPTEMBER IN LEADING TO VICTORY, THE MAIN COLUMN OF ASSAULT, AT THE GREAT
SIEGE OF DELHI, AND DIED 23 SEPTEMBER, 1857.
AGED 34

 MOURNED BY THE TWO RACES WITH AN EQUAL GRIEF

An entrance to the column, with iron stairs. (23.11.2021.)


A section of the original GT Road. (23.11.2021.)

On the way to the column. (23.11.2021.)

A hill covered with beautiful trees nearby. (23.112021)

The scenery all around is simply breathtaking. However, it is now only a matter of time before this remaining beauty is completely destroyed. Massive crushing machines are working around the clock, blasting away the hills to make way for more concrete and ever-expanding housing societies. One gets the impression that no government regulations exist here, or, if they do, they are not being enforced. It is deeply disappointing and painful to witness the destruction of both the environment and this historic monument.

I have visited this place again, twice, with my family. Each time, I found it in slightly worse condition than before. The very hill on which the column stands is now being excavated from two sides, driven by an insatiable demand for stone. No effort is being spared in destroying the natural landscape, and now the monument’s very existence is under threat.

I sincerely hope that the relevant authorities take notice of the rapidly deteriorating condition of this site and take meaningful steps to halt—or at least slow—this wholesale destruction.


Tariq Amir

July 12, 2025.
Islamabad


View Monument Of Brigadier John Nicholson in a larger map

4 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. Thanks for writing on a subject that is neglected by our nation. We are not interested in our History and this is not a tenet of a good, educated nation.

    Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it (George Santayna)

    Can i ask what was the significance of this place for construction of monument.
    and please send me a snap of board placed inside the monument if you have?.

    and why a rope is placed iside this obelisk.
    Who is maintaining these monuments ?

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  3. Dear Muhammad Omar sahib. Thank you for your comments. You have raised a very pertinent question about the significance of the location of this monument. I am not sure about that. Perhaps because he mostly served in Punjab and nearby Rawlins was the headquarters of the northern command.

    I could not take the pictures of inside of this obelisk. It was locked and the watchman was missing. However, I once saw one picture on net. I shall try to find it. I no nothing about the rope. I think the British department of war memorials is taking care of this monument. That's why it has survived in a good condition. Monument of Chillianwala is also managed by the British government.

    Once again thank you for your interest. Keep in touch. Regards.

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  4. Excuse me, I mean Rawalpindi was the headquarters of the northern command.

    ReplyDelete