019. Bhoman Shah: Gurdwara of Bhumman Shah

Baba Bhumman Shah was a prominent sadhu of the Udasi Sikhs, born in 1687 and died in 1762. The Udasi sect of Sikhs was quite popular in the 19th century and had a large following in Punjab. Baba Bhumman Shah is still revered for his spiritual teachings by many Sikhs and Hindus.

A few years ago, I saw a small picture of a large structure resembling a palace. In quest of that image, I reached Bhumman Shah, a village in District Okara, Tehsil Depalpur, on March 21, 2011, accompanied by my cousin Tahir Mehboob, a resident of Chak 127 EB. I wasn’t sure what would be waiting for me — but what I found exceeded all expectations. There wasn’t just a palace of marvellous architecture, but also a large Gurdwara complex. It is located at 30° 31' 48.53" N, 73° 39' 23.13" E. The site is approximately 150 km from Lahore, 45 km from Okara, and 17 km from Depalpur on Haveli Lakha Road.

The haveli, though magnificent, is in a complete state of disrepair. The occupants — numbering in the hundreds, spread across dozens of families — appear to lack both the resources and the will to maintain it. We met one resident who showed us part of the haveli; he was a refugee from District Hissar. However, the haveli is so badly divided between different families that accessing various parts of this vast structure is quite difficult.

I only realized the true scale of the haveli when I saw it on Google Earth. Now I feel I should have spared more time to explore it properly. Maybe next time.

Eastern side of a remarkable haveli in Bhoman Shah. (21.03.2011.)

View from the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

View from the roof of the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

Another view of the haveli. (21.03.2011.)

An entrance to the haveli. (21.03.2011.)

A door inside the haveli. (21.03.2011.)

Interior portions of the haveli. (21.03.2011.)

The date of construction of this haveli is not known to me. However, close to the haveli stands a large gurdwara, which, according to Mr. Iqbal Qaiser on the website allaboutsikhs.com, was constructed in 1910. 

It was a pleasant surprise to see the gurdwara in such good condition and not occupied. I was told that Sikhs still visit this gurdwara, and that a couple of years ago, a large number of them came to offer their prayers here.

Main entrance of the gurdwara Baba Bhumman Shah. (21.03.2011.) 

View of the courtyard of gurdwara Bhumman Shah. (21.03.2011.)

A beautiful building in the gurdwara Bhumman Shah. (21.03.2011.)

The condition of the building shows that it is not totally neglected. (21.03.2011.)

Interior of the main prayer hall. 

Children of a nearby school in Bhoman Shah village. (21.03.2011.)

View from the gallery of the prayer hall. (21.03.2011.)

View from the roof of the gurdwara Bhumman Shah. (21.03.2011.)

Frescoes in the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

ਦਰਬਾਰ ਬਾਬਾ ਭੂਮਨ ਸ਼ਾਹ ਸਾਹਿਬ ਜੀ

Darbar (Shrine/Court) of Baba Bhuman Shah Sahib Ji

Frescoes in the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

Frescoes in the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

Frescoes in the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

Frescoes in the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

Frescoes in the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

Frescoes in the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

In addition to this gurdwara, a big dharamshala, guest house for devotees, also exists beside this gurdwara. Which is also in occupied by dozens of families and divided haphazardly. But so far it is also in good condition.

Front view of the dharamshala. (21.03.2011.)

View of the dharamshala from the roof of the gurdwara. (21.03.2011.)

Another view. You can see houses constructed in front of the dharamshala. (21.03.2011.)

Main street between the gurdwara and the dharamsala. (21.03.2011.)

View of the western wall of the dharamshala, from a lane. (21.03.2011.)

Main entrance of this gurdwara complex, the main gate is on the road. (21.03.2011.) 

It is a big complex housing a gurdwara, dharamsala and a haveli. I am sure that not many such monuments exist in Pakistan. Repair and maintenance can turn it into a master piece of traditional architecture. It can house a big museum of art, culture and history of this region. With proper arrangements, it can be turned into a big tourist attraction for Pakistani and Indian, especially Sikh, tourists. 

Tariq Amir

June 04, 2014.

Doha - Qatar 

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