Gujranwala is a large but comparatively new city. Though settlements existed in this area for a long time, the foundations of the modern city were laid in 1758, when Charat Singh constructed a small mud fort at Sirai Kambohaan.
He was the sardar of the Sukerchakia Misl and the grandfather of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The 18th century was a period of turmoil in Punjab. Foreign invasions by Nadir Shah, and later Ahmad Shah Abdali, ravaged the region from the Indus to the Jamuna, and the authority of the Mughals had completely collapsed by the 1750s. The Sikhs, already active, took full advantage of this anarchy, and by the 1760s, quickly emerged as the supreme force in Punjab. Central Punjab, in particular, fell under their control. Even Lahore was captured by the Sikhs on 16th May 1764. Except for a few months in 1767 and a few days in 1797, it remained under the control of the Bhangi Misl.
The Misls were twelve independently operating Sikh groups, each under different warlords, active in various regions of Punjab. One of them was the Sukerchakia Misl, based in Gujranwala, which controlled the surrounding areas and was constantly at war with neighboring Muslim chiefs like the Chatthas, as well as with other Sikh or Hindu chiefs.
In these circumstances, Ranjit Singh was born on 13th November 1780, and upon the death of his father Mahan Singh in April 1790, he, though still a boy, became the sardar of his Misl. His rise was rapid: by 1799, he had occupied Lahore, and by 1809, he had wrested control of all areas west of the Sutlej from other Sikh Misls.
In the same year, through a treaty, the River Sutlej was agreed upon as the boundary between British India and his state. He then shifted his focus in other directions, and by the time of his death in 1839, the whole of present-day Pakistani Punjab (except the Bahawalpur State), most of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, and Kashmir had been brought under his rule.
Sikhs rightly take great pride in the rise of Ranjit Singh, the greatest ruler they ever produced. Though Muslims don’t have many fond memories of Sikh rule, one thing is certain: he brought a degree of stability to Punjab, ending the anarchy and depredations caused by the Sikh Misls and Afghan invasions. He was also known for his tolerance toward other religions. Because of the strong state he built through his immense talent and energy, he is often called Sher-e-Punjab, or the Lion of Punjab.
In search of some traces of Ranjit Singh’s family, I reached Gujranwala on 16.03.2011. Our first destination was Sheranwala Bagh — the Garden of Lions. The ruins of a house can still be seen there. At the time, I believed these ruins to be the residence and birthplace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, but I later found that to be incorrect.
In fact, a large haveli still exists inside the old city, which is probably the residence of his family. In the bagh, we spoke to some elderly gentlemen who were sitting idly; one of them claimed to be an authority on matters related to Ranjit Singh, yet even he did not mention this haveli, located just half a kilometer away. The ruins in Sheranwala Bagh are located at 32° 09' 21.17" N, 74° 11' 18.81" E.
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A general view of the Sheranwala Bagh. (16.03.2011)
Old ruins, with a mosque in the background. (16.03.2011)
A fountain in the garden. (16.03.2011)
View of the ruinds of a baradari in Sheranwala Bagh. (16.03.2011)
View from inside. (16.03.2011)
View from the northern side. (16.03.2011)
Another view of this fast decaying baradari. (16.03.2011)
Just outside Sheranwala Bagh, near the northeastern corner and visible from within the garden itself, is the Samadhi of Mahan Singh (died 1790), the father of Ranjit Singh. It is located at 32° 09' 23.21" N, 74° 11' 19.67" E. Access is through a lane behind the row of shops on the main GT Road.
When I visited the site, it was closed, and the owner could not be found. The place was being used as a store. Needless to say, the building, though still structurally sound, is in urgent need of repair. More importantly, the encroachments on all sides need to be cleared. Yes, I know, it's wishful thinking. But this is how we treat our historical monuments.
View of the samadhi of Mahan Singh, father of Ranjit Singh, from the garden. (16.03.2011)
View from the lane. (16.03.2011)
Another view from the lane. (16.03.2011)
But the real discovery came afterward, when I found the Samadhi of Charat Singh, the grandfather of Ranjit Singh, who died in 1774. This is not a well-known place, and few people are aware of its existence, primarily because a police station, known as Thana Sabzi Mandi, is located on its premises. It is situated on the GT Road, nearly a kilometer south of Sheranwala Bagh.
My cousin, Sahibzada Shah Sultan, had to make a few calls here and there before we were granted permission to enter. Behind the main gate, in the courtyard, stands the beautiful structure of the Samadhi. Right inside the Samadhi itself, the Thanedar Sahib was sitting at a table and chair. He seemed a bit uneasy and suspicious because we wanted to take photographs of the building and the rooms around the courtyard. But thankfully, he allowed me to take a few shots.
I always welcome comments on my blog and especially value those that provide additional information or suggest corrections. On 21 August 2016, Mr. Amardeep Singh commented on the post and informed me that the building I had mentioned as the Samadhi of Charat Singh is actually a Jain Mandir. My sources of information were Sikhipedia and a book on Sikh heritage in Pakistan written by Bobby Singh Deol.
Mr. Amardeep Singh referred to a book on Jain religion, which clearly states that the aforementioned building is a Jain Mandir, built in memory of the great Jain scholar Shri Atmaramji.
A short
account of the life of Shrimat Vijayanan
& Suri-popularly known as Shri
Atmaramji
Twenty
two years have gone by since the death of Shri Vijayanandsuri, the well-known Jain
Sadhu of the Swetainber sect. He was born in the village of Lahara, District Ferozpur
(Punjab) on the first of Chaitra Shukla in Yikram year 1893. He wras a Brahma Kshattriya
by casle. His father's name was Ganeshchandra and mother's, Rupdevi. He lost his
father in early childhood and was brought up by his mother. He was given in charge
of Seth Jodhmal of Jira (Punjab) for education in Yikram year 1903.
He
studied Hindi and Arithmetic. At times he used to visit Sthanakvasi Sadhus of the
place and began to study about religion. In Vikrama 1910 he was initiated as a Sthanakvasi
Sadhu. His intellect was keen : he used to commit to memory 100 verses a day. He
had learnt the Shastras from the Sthanakvasi Sadhus but he began to entertain doubts
as regards the interpretation as given by them. Fortunately he began to study Sanskrit
Grammar and other philosophical and logical works with a Pandit.
He
fearlessly gave up the Sthanakvasi doctrine and came to Ahmedabad in V. year
1932. He was initiated as a Swetamber Sadhu by Buddhivijayji, a Jain Sadhu of the
place. In the V. year 1943, he went to Palitana, Kathiawar, and stayed there for
four months during the rainy season. Here he was given the title of 1 Acharya' by
the Sangha ; and from that time he was called by the name of Shri Vijayanandsuri.
Then
he travelled on foot from Gujerat to the Punjab. During the travel he brought to
light the hidden Jain Literature. The Jain Bhandars o£ different places of Rajputana
were examined by him. He got many old important manuscripts fairly copied out.
For
many years he lived in the Punjab. His fame spread through the different parts
of the country. Many people of other sects came and discussed with him on matters
of religion. He answered their arguments in a mild, courteous and dispassionate
manner. His tone was inspiring, and the hearers were at times astonished at his
pecular tact of answering the questions. His ideas were liberal. He was serene and
calm of disposition.
Many
questions on Jainism were put to him by Dr. A. F. Rudolf Hoernele through Maganlal
Dalpatram in the Vikram year 1945. Dr Hoernele was greatly satisfied with the answers.
He wrote to Maganlal in 1888 " Please convey to the latter (Muni Maharaj) the
expression of my thanks for the great trouble he has taken to reply so promptly
and so fully to my questions. His answers were satisfactory." In the introduction
of the Upasakdasanga, which Dr. Hornele has edited and translated he writes "
For some o£ this information I am indebted to Muni Maharaj Atmaramji, Anandvijayji,
the wellknown and highly respected Sadhu of the Jain Community throughout India
and author of (among others) two very useful works in Hindi."
In
Vikram year 1949, he received an invitation from Chicago to attend 'the World's
Parliament of Religions. On account of religious and personal restrictions he could
not go, but he sent his representative, Mr. Virchand Raghavji Gandhi, B. A. to Chicago
to represent Jainism at the Parliament.
He
was the author of a number of works in Hindi. The important works are as follows:—
Tatwanirnaya
Prasad, Jaina Tatwadarsha, Agnantimir-bhasker, Sainayktwa Shalyodhar, and Chicago-Prasnottar.
Many
Jain temples were built in the Punjab by his teaching. About 15000 persons were
converted to Jainism by his strenuous efforts. Many Pathshalas and Libraries were
established by him in the districts of the Punjab and in different other parts of
the country.
Spending
his life in doing good deeds he passed away from this world in Vikram year 1953,
Jyesta Shukla 13, in Gujranwala (Punjab).
The
event of his death was mysterious. At midnight he got up from bed and sat in the
posture of Padmasana. He called his pupils before him and said to them i Oh, Now
I go, Arhan!
Lives of great men all remind us We can make our
lives sublime, And departing leave behind us Foot prints on the sands of time.
(Longfellow)
A picture of this building is also given in the above mentioned book. Which leaves no room for any doubt that this was a Jain Mandir, dedicated to Shri Atmaramji.
The year written is Vikrama 1953, which corresponds to 1896 AD.
Another gentleman, Mr. Ravinder Jain, also commented, rather bitterly, about the incorrect information. He mentioned that the Mandir was completed in 1904. All I can say is that the mistake was unintentional and was not meant to show any disrespect to any religion.
I fully support the idea that this building should be preserved, and that Jains from India and other countries should be allowed to visit and pray in this holy place. Currently, the building is being used as a police station, which is not befitting the dignity of a site sacred to so many people.
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Jain Mandir, decicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
Jain Mandir, dedicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
Jain Mandir, dedicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
Jain Mandir, dedicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
Entrance of the thana (Police Station) from the GT road. (16.03.2011)
Now question is then where is the Smadhi of Charat Singh? Here too, Mr Amerdeep has given a clue. He has given the reference of a book Umdat Ut Tawarikh and provided a link to read this book. This book is the official chronicles of the Maharaja. The link is given below:
http://www.panjabdigilib.org/webuser/searches/displayPageContent.jsp?ID=2892&page=1&CategoryID=1&Searched=W3GX
On the pages 594 and 595, there is an account of Maharaja Ranjit Singh's journey from Qila Sobha Singh to Zafrwal, district Narowal. It is mentioned on page 595 that on 5 October, 1838, Maharaja Ranjit Singh reached the village of Jalal and visited the Smadhi of Charat Singh, his grandfather. However, I could not locate this village. Other nearby villages mentioned are Halla, Chakli, and Karala, these too I could not find. I hope some reader will help in locating these villages.
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Near the Sheranwala Bagh, just across the GT road, a big gurdwara building is also seen. I was told that now it is occupied by dozens of refugee families and due to a shortage of time, I could not explore it properly.
A Sikh gurdwara complex. (16.03.2011)
੧ ਓ ਸਤਿ ਗੁਰ ਪ੍ਰਸਾਦ
ਗੁਰਦਵਾਰਾ ਦਮਦਮਾ ਸਾਹਿਬਬਾਬਾ ਸਾਹਿਬ ਸਿੰਘ ਜੀ ਬੇਦੀ
Gurdwara Damdama Baba Sahib Singh Ji Bedi.
While writing this blog, I keep thinking that with a little effort, Gujranwala city could be turned into a major tourist destination for Sikhs from all around the world. Besides the landmarks mentioned above, there is a large haveli in the old city and also a beautiful rest house of Ranjit Singh. If we preserve these buildings and promote them properly, we can attract a large number of tourists.
Tariq Amir
June 01, 2014.
Doha - Qatar
As I mentioned above, during my last visit to Gujranwala in March 2011, I could not find the birthplace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. So it remained on my agenda to visit the city again and locate the haveli of Ranjit Singh. The opportunity came after four years, and I was back in Gujranwala on August 12, 2015. This time, I knew the exact location of the haveli, and after passing through the narrow and crowded streets of the old town, I found myself standing in front of it. The straight layout of the streets in the old town reflects the good planning of the Sikh government. For reference, you may ask for directions to the old Sabzi Mandi (vegetable market).
The entire area is very crowded, and cars cannot enter most of the streets. The scene in front of the haveli is even more chaotic, as an area that was once an open ground is now occupied by makeshift shops. Even the facade of the building is partially hidden behind newly constructed structures. A narrow staircase, about ten steps high, on the left side, leads to the main entrance of the building.
Facade of the haveli of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. (12.08.2015.)
The main entrance to the haveli of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. (12.08.2015.)
Another view of the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
The main entrance opens in a big hall. One can reach the courtyard by passing through this hall. The roof as we can see has been repaired in near past. Instead of old wooden roof as it must have been in the original condition, it is made of girders and slabs of cement/concrete.
A hall behind the main entrance. (12.08.2015.)
The courtyard is a considerably large area, surrounded by verandahs and large rooms. The whole haveli seems to have been constructed on an elevated ground. _resize.jpg)
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