Thursday, 2 October 2025

189. Two Historic Mosques in Khushab: Mosque of Sharifuddin & Markazi Jame Masjid!

Khushab is an old town of Punjab, located on the east bank of the river Jhelum. Its earliest mention is found in the Baburnama, where Emperor Babur writes about its location. In the Ain-i-Akbari, it is mentioned as a pargana, a revenue unit in the Mughal administrative system, roughly equivalent to a modern tehsil. It remained an important town and marketplace during the Sikh and British periods.

This old town has many historic buildings that reflect its past history and culture. One such building is a very old mosque in the heart of the old town.  A local history enthusiast, Shehzad Aslam, guided me to this mosque and said that it was almost five hundred years old. It is claimed to have been built during the reign of Sher Shah Suri in 1541, but there is no record to support this claim. Anyway, it is obvious that the mosque is very old. The mosque is located at 32°17'34.81"N, 72°21'22.30"E

Shehzad told me that the mosque is also called the Mosque of Sharifuddin, a person who served it for a long time in the past, and the mosque became known after him. As we know, Sher Shah Suri already has a large number of unverified constructions attributed to his name, so I shall attribute this mosque to Sharifuddin.

Mosque of Sharifuddin in Khushab. (20.09.2025.)

Another view of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

A closer view of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

The writer. (20.09.2025.)

Mihrab of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

hushab. (20.09.2025.)
The inside view of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)






Very beautiful decorative work surivives on the dome. (20.09.2025.)

The doors are unusually very low, probably just four feet in height. (20.09.2025.)

An old house near the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

The mosque is undoubtedly very old. However, it has lost all of its original decorative work and now appears plain and simple. Its walls are remarkably thick, over three feet in width. Another striking feature is its unusually low doors, perhaps only about four feet high. Shehzad Aslam suggested that the doors might have been kept low for security reasons. But was the mosque ever intended to serve as a defensive stronghold? I have my doubts. 

By this time we were tired, but Shehzad suggested not to miss another landmark mosque nearby. This mosque too has historic importantce and is three hundred years old. But unlike mosque of Shrifuddin, its building is not that much old. The facade though is sixty or seventy years old. However, its architecural beauty and elegance imprssed me. The mosque is located on the same road at:  32°17'37.30"N, 72°21'12.90"E.

A panoramic view of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

Beautiful facade of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

Three central arches. (20.09.2025.)

Verandah of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

Mihrab of the mosque. (20.09.2025.)

The main prayer hall. (20.09.2025.)


Regarding the Mosque of Sharifuddin, I wish it were more properly researched by historians and archaeologists to establish its history and antiquity. Proper restoration work should also be done to restore this to its original shape and beauty. All efforts should be made to preserve this historic monument by official authorities, as local people have neither resources nor exprtise to accomplish this task. 

Tariq Amir

October 2, 2025.
Islamabad

Wednesday, 1 October 2025

188. Arya Samaj Temple and a Janj Ghar (Wedding Guesthouse) in Khushab!

On September 20, 2025, I was wandering in Khushab in search of a few old buildings. A young man suggested that I meet Shehzad Aslam, who owns a shop in the main bazar. I met him, and indeed he turned out to be a man of extensive knowledge about the history of Khushab and its historical and heritage buildings. He told me many interesting things about the past of Khushab; he is an expert on the pre-partition houses and other buildings. He took us on a quick tour of the locality and, within an hour, showed us at least four buildings of historic and cultural value.

One of them is a Hindu temple and the adjoining Janj Ghar, a community guest house, which was used to accommodate and entertain the groom’s marriage party and also served as a general guest house. The temple is a solidly built two-storey building and is quite unlike a traditional temple. I cannot explain the reason. However, if there had not been a plaque clearly mentioning the word “Mandir,” I would never have thought of it as a Hindu temple.

It was locked, and we could not enter it. However, luckily, a window was open, and I was able to take a peek and a picture. It is a large hall with balconies on all four sides. The temple and the Janj Ghar are both located side by side in the same compound, at: 32°17'41.59"N, 72°21'6.14"E

Arya Samaj Hindu Temple, in Khushab. (20.09.2025.)

A closer view of the temple. (20.09.2025.)


श्री .......समाज       मन्दिर सं. ੧੯੮੫  

सुख दियाल सपुत्र बहरी कंहैया 
लाल मेहरा ख़ुशब निवासी ने धमार्थ बनवाया

سُکھدیال سپُتر باہری کنہیا لعل مہرہ سکنہ خوشاب
نے دھرمارتھ بنوایا۔  1928 ء

Om
Shri Arya   Samaj        Temple Year 1985 (1928 AD)
Sukhdiyal s/o Kanhayya Lal Mehra, resident of Khushab,
got constuctured this for religious / charity purpose. 1928 AD

IIn all the hustle and bustle, I forgot to take a closer picture of this most important plaque. Shehzad Aslam came to my rescue and sent me a very clear picture of this commemorative plaque. I also want to express a little doubt here: I could not read the second word on the top left side. It should be “Arya,” as that would complete the sense. But I myself could not read it, as it is written in an unfamiliar style. Anyway, Shehzad Aslam Sahib confirms it to be “Arya.” 

A side view of the temple. (20.9.2025.)

Interior of the temple. (20.09.2025.)

The Janj Ghar in Khushab. (20.09.2025.)

یہ جنج گھر و مسافر خانہ 

مع ۔۔۔۔۔۔ زمینی5 مرلہ پوجینیہ پِتا شریمان لالہ نہال چند جی سونی
و ماتا صاحبہ شریمتی سُلکھنی دیوی جی کی یادگارمیں  بنوایا گیا۔

اکتوبر 1935 ء
بِشن داس کِشن داس رام لبھایا دیسراج ٹھاکر داس گوپال داس سونی

येह जंज घर व मुसाफ़िर ख़ाना

मा ...... ज़मीनी ५ मरला पूजनीय पिता श्रीमान लाला निहाल चंद जी सोनी
व माता साहिबा सुलखनी देवी जी की यादगार में बनवाया۔

अकतुबर १९३५
बिशन दास किशन दास राम लभाया देसराज ठाकुर गोपाल दास सोनी

This Wedding Party House & Guest House

With 5 Marla of land, was constructed in memory of father, Respected Lala Nihal Chand Sawhney and mother, respected Sulakhni Devi ji.

October 1935
Bishan Das, Kishan Das, Rama Labhaya, Desraj, Thakur Das, Gopal Das Sawhney

The temple (right) and the Janj Ghar (left) are side by side. (20.9.2025.)

यह कमरा व बरामदा सुवर्गबाशी श्रीमान दिता मल जी 
सपुत्र पियरा राम जी मकङ नोशेहरा निवासी की पुन्य स्मृत्यै में
उनके स्पत्रों श्रीमान राम दता मल व लाला हुकम चन्द व लाला हेम राज जी 
ने धर्माथ बनवाया ।। सं. १९९२ 

یہ کمرہ و برآمدہ سُورگباشی شریمان لالہ دیوی دِتّہ مل جی سپُتر لالہ پیارا رام جی مکڑ
نوشہرہ نواسی کی پنیہ سمرتی میں ان کے سپُتروں 
شریمان رام دِتّہ مل و لالہ حُکم چند و لالہ ہیمراج جی نے دھرمارتھ بنوایا
1935

This room and verandah were constructed, in virtuous memory of Shriman Lala Devi Ditta Mal ji s/o Lala Piyara Ram ji Makkar, resident of Nowshera, by his sons Shriman Ram Ditta Mal & Lala Hukam Chand & Lala Hemraj ji for religious / charity purposes.
1935

  Janj Ghar. (20.09.2025.)

येह कमरे मलिक बिधी चन्द जी 
व उन की धर्म पतनी श्रीमती भाग वनती जी 
की याद में मलकानी जीवन देवी 
जी ने बनवाए

یہ کمرے

ملِک بِدھی چند جی
و ان کی دھرم پتنی شریمتی بھاگ ونتی جی
کی یاد میں ملکانی جیون دیوی 
جی نے بنوائے۔ 
1936

These rooms were constructed in the memory of Malik Bidhi Chand ji & his wife respected Bhag Wanti ji, by Malkani Jiwan Devi .
1936

Verandah of the Janj Ghar. (20.09.2025.)

So the plaques not only record the names of the persons who contributed to the construction of these buildings but also provide a brief history of their construction. It is clear from these plaques that the temple was built earlier, in 1928, and that later, in 1935/36, the Janj Ghar was added to it.

Currently, a homoeopathic college for girls is being run there. The administration graciously allowed us to enter the premises and take a few photographs. We were also informed that it is a property of the Auqaf Department, which neither repairs it nor allows others to repair it. Now the logic behind this policy is beyond my understanding.

The writer. (20.09.2025.)

At the end, I would like to offer my special thanks to Aslam Shehzad Sahib, not only for guiding me to this temple but also for providing me with a clear image of the plaque on the temple. He maintains a Facebook page dedicated to the history of Khushab, which contains valuable information about the past and present of the city. 

Shehzad's grandfather, Qasim Ali, born in 1922, migrated from Badanpur, a village 4 km east of the historic city of Samana in Punjab, India. I asked him a few questions about those tragic times. He told me that half of their family were killed in the riots. I asked him if he felt any bitterness or hatred toward those people. His answer will always resonate in my mind: he said, “It was hatred that brought us those tragedies; should we hate again?”

Mr. Shehzad Aslam at his shop. (20.09.2025.)

I am sure that with the collaboration of Shehzad, I would be able to write many more interesting posts on similar subjects, related to the history and culture of Khushab. To reach the destination, follow the map given below. 


Tariq Amir

October 1, 2025.
Islamabad

Tuesday, 30 September 2025

187. Baoli of Wan Bhachran! (District Mianwali)

Baolis, or stepwells, were a common feature of South Asian social life. Even today, thousands of baolis exist in India, some of them architectural wonders. In Pakistan, too, at least around two dozen baolis still exist. I have visited seven of them so far, and this baoli is the eighth one. You can find the links on the page of Baolis, given on the right side of the blog. 

This baoli is located in Wan Bhachran, a small town in District Mianwali. It is situated almost in the centre of the town at 32°25'1.07"N, 71°41'45.09"E. This was my second visit to this baoli, and it was a very happy one. I was aware that some repair work had been done recently, but the complete transformation I saw surprised me and truly made my day. I visited it on September 20, 2025.

A board, installed by the Department of Archaeology, still stands blank. A local person told me that something had been written on it earlier, but it was later erased due to uncertainty about the details. However, to resolve such dilemmas, there is a ready formula: attribute it to the famous king Sher Shah Suri. So, according to tradition, this baoli too was built by Sher Shah Suri. I am not in a position to confirm or refute this claim. What is certain, however, is that this is a very old structure. Almost nothing is known about its history,  neither the time of its construction nor the identity of its builder. It could be during the Mughal era. 

Entrance of the baoli. (20.09.2025.)

Looking towards the east. (20.09.2025.)


A staircase is the most prominent feature of a baoli. (20.09.2025.)


The word Wan in the local language means a well, while the Bhachar are a prominent tribe of this area, who settled this town. So the name means "Well of the Bachars". Due to the importance of the well in this arid area, the locality became known as Wan Bhachran. 

Looking down the stairs, water is also visible. (20.09.2025.)

 Another view of the stairs. (20.09.2025.)

This baoli is of considerable size, almost 56 meters in length. More than half of the staircase is subterranean, which suggests that the well was originally very deep. However, I noticed water visible at about one-third of the depth of the staircase. There could be two reasons for this: due to the rainy season, the water level is higher, and the second, perhaps more important, is that now, unlike in the past, the area is irrigated by canals. In earlier times, it was a desert-like area, so the water level has probably risen due to the irrigation projects launched after independence.

The entire length of the baolis is visible. You can see the well on the far left side. (20.09.2025.)

The well. (20.09.2025.)

The well is safely secured with an iron grille. (20.05.2025.)


Kos Minars were an important and common feature of the main roads since early times. Their purpose was dual, to measure the distance and also guide the travellers. These twin towers most probably served the same purpose. Normally, a single tower is erected, but these twin towers perhaps indicated the existence of a baoli. Just a guess. A couple of original Kos Minars still exist in and around Lahore. 



L to R: Azeem & Ibrahim. (20.09.2025.)

L to R: Tariq & Ibrahim. (20.09.2025.)

As I mentioned earlier, this was my second visit to this baoli. The first was ten years ago, on August 13, 2015. At that time, the baoli was almost invisible, buried under dirt and garbage and covered with overgrown wild plants. Then its fortune changed and we see the result. 





I must say the Archaeology Department of Punjab has done an excellent job. The premises are secured with an elegant iron railing, and the entire 0.25-acre area is neatly paved with bricks. The structure itself has been carefully repaired, and above all, the whole site is clean and well maintained. Benches have also been provided for visitors. However, I noticed that no trees or plants have been planted, which would have certainly enhanced its beauty. Full credit goes to those who took this initiative and carried out the work so skillfully, saving this historic monument from disappearing forever.

I hope the department will write the history of this baoli on the board and also provide some technical details about its architectural features. 

Tariq Amir

September 30, 2025.
Islamabad

Monday, 29 September 2025

186. Grave of Lt. General Henry Marshman Havelock; Victoria Cross! (Rawalpindi)

The Victoria Cross (VC) is the highest military award given to a soldier for displaying extraordinary bravery and dedication to duty. In official words, it is awarded for:

“...most conspicuous bravery, or some daring or pre-eminent act of valour or self-sacrifice, of extreme devotion to duty in the presence of the enemy...”

It was named after Queen Victoria, the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland (1837–1901), who introduced it in 1856 after the Crimean War to honour the soldiers who performed great acts of courage and bravery in the face of the enemy.

So far, it has been awarded 1,358 times to 1,355 individuals. It was awarded to soldiers of the Commonwealth who served in the British Empire.

According to the Victoria Cross website, 14 of these recipients are buried in Pakistan, 10 of them were British stationed in India, and 4 were local soldiers. I have visited the graves of two of them, Subedar Khudadad Khan and Subedar Shahamad Khan. This was my third visit to the grave of a VC recipient.

One of the ten British recipients of the Victoria Cross who are buried in Pakistan is Lieutenant General Sir Henry Marshman Havelock-Allan, 1st Baronet, VC, GCB, DL. He was born in Kanpur, India, in 1830. His father, Major General Sir Henry Havelock, was also a distinguished military officer. Following in his father’s footsteps, he joined the army in 1846.

During the Indian Mutiny of 1857, he distinguished himself in several actions and played a notable role in the campaign to relieve the siege of Lucknow. He was awarded the Victoria Cross for his bravery in an action at Kanpur.

In his later career, he served in various military and civilian posts and, in 1874, was elected as a Member of Parliament. In 1897, while visiting his old regiment, the 18th (Royal Irish) Regiment, and accompanying them on a military expedition, he was killed by a Pathan sniper in the Khyber Pass. His body was brought to Rawalpindi and buried there. The grave is located at:  33°34'38.25"N,  73° 3'0.50"E. 

A monument on the grave of Henry Marshman Havelock. (16.09.2025.)

IN MEMORY OF 
LIEUT GENERAL
SIR HENRY MARSHMAN HAVELOCK-ALLAN
BARONET V.C., G.C.B., M.P.
SON OF
MAJOR GENERAL
SIR HENRY HAVELOCK OF LUCKNOW.
BART K.C.B.
BORN AUG: 6TH 1830
KILLED BY AFRIDIS IN THE KHYBER PASS
DEC: 30  1897
WHILST WATCHING MILITARY OPERATIONS.
FOUGHT IN PERSIA THE INDIAN MUTINY
& NEW ZEALAND
A TRUE SOLDIER FEARLESS & HEROIC, AND 
DEVOTED TO HIS COUNTRY'S SERVICE
BURIED AT RAWAL PINDI
BY BRAVE SOLDIERS IN A SOLDIER'S GRAVE

"My times are in thy Hand"
This monument is erected 
by his sorrowing widow
and family

Another view of the grave of Havelock. (16.09.2025.)


During the British government, the graveyard was probably reserved for the British residents. But now it is mostly used by the local Christian community. However, there are still dozens of graves of the British military and civilian personnel. The picture of one of them, adjacent to the grave of Havelock, is given below. 

IN MEMORY 
OF
C.C.E. EWART
LIEUTENANT
5TH BENGAL CAVALRY
SON OF R.W. EWART ESQ (perhaps Esquire)
OF ELLERSLIE MOFFAT NB
WHO DIED AT RAWAL PINDI OF 
DISEASE CONTRACTED ON SERVICE
ON THE 7TH JANUARY 1898 

Graves of Havelock and Ewart. (16.09.2025.)

A general view of the cemetery. (16.09.2025.)

Sir Henry Marshman Havelock (Wikipedia)

The main gate of the cemetery. (16.09.2025.)

As I mentioned above, the cemetery still has dozens of graves of British officials who served in India. However, due to the recent heavy rains, the plants and grass had grown thickly everywhere. It was not possible to walk through the cemetery or read the headstones and commemorative plaques, most of which were hidden beneath the overgrowth. Besides, it was hazardous to explore it in such conditions. A caretaker advised me to come in autumn, when the site would be much clearer of plants and grass, as by then the clearing work would have been completed. Hopefully, in a couple of months, I shall visit again and discover more graves from that era. The entrance of the cemetery is at:  33°34'41.54"N,  73° 3'1.17"E. 

It was surprising to see the condition of the grave of a British Victoria Cross recipient. Apparently, nobody visits it or takes any care of it. The contrast becomes even more striking when we look at the Rawalpindi War Cemetery, located less than 200 meters from this grave. The difference in care and maintenance could not have been greater.

Tariq Amir

September 29. 2025.
Islamabad