Rohtas Fort is one of the largest and most majestic forts in Pakistan. The famous king Sher Shah Suri (1486–1545 AD) had it constructed during his reign from 1540 to 1545 AD. Sher Shah Suri was the son of a jagirdar in Bihar. But due to his talent and hard work, he gradually increased his power and finally defeated Humayun in the fateful Battle of Chausa on June 26, 1539. During the next few months, he relentlessly pursued Humayun across Hindustan, up to Multan, and chased him out of Hindustan altogether.
However, he was well aware that Humayun was not sitting idle in Persia, but was making all kinds of plans and doing everything he could to reclaim his throne. His brothers were still ruling Kabul, and the Mughals thus had a foothold just across the Khyber Pass to attack Hindustan. To preempt any such attack and to subdue the local population, Sher Shah Suri decided to construct a fort at Rohtas.
Rohtas Fort has an area of approximately 194 acres and a perimeter of 4.5 kilometers. It is surrounded by massive walls with 12 gates. Construction of such a huge fort took 8 years and was completed during the reign of Suri's son, Islam Shah. I first visited this fort 10 years ago, on March 5, 2005. That was a pleasant spring day. The weather was ideal for such an excursion. My friend Muhammad Munir and I came from Islamabad to see this historic fort.
Update - 1
My second visit to this fort was two months ago, on 18 August 2015. However, this time the purpose of visiting Rohtas was not just exploring the fort, but also to see three other historic places in and around it. These are Gurdwara Mata Kaur Ji, Gurdwara Choa Sahib, and the tomb of Khair un Nissa. But those are the subject of another post. The link is given below:
043. Rohtas: Gurdwara Choa Sahib, Gurdwara Mata Kaur ji & Tomb Of Khair un Nissa
It was a sweltering day in August. My cousin Nasir Mahmood and I reached Rohtas Fort at 09:30, and already it was unbearably hot and humid. Except for the village inside the fort, most parts of the fort gave a deserted look. I do not remember the actual temperature, but the real-feel temperature was 48˚C. This hot, humid, and suffocating weather tested our physical strength to the full. Our guide was also of the opinion that it was the hottest day of the season.
After ten years, I noticed just one difference: the size of the population and number of houses in Rohtas village has increased, which is adversely affecting the condition of the fort. Encroachments along the wall, especially near the Kashmiri Gate, are playing a big role in deteriorating the general condition of this magnificent fort.
While leaving my home in Lilla, P.D. Khan in the morning, I realized that I had forgotten my camera in Sargodha the previous day. So, I had no option but to depend on the camera of my Note 4. At least I am not disappointed with the result.
While coming from Dina, we first had to cross a bridge over the Kahan River (or stream), appropriately named Sher Shah Suri Bridge. Shortly after crossing the bridge, the road leads into the fort itself. This is the main entrance to the fort from the eastern side. This road further leads to Sohail Gate on the western side and out of the fort. These two gates are the most imposing and in much better condition compared to the other gates. Khwas Khani Gate is actually a double gate — that means after entering the first gate, we find another just behind it.
I must say that to properly explore this fort, one needs a whole day. It is a physically challenging task as well. The weather should be the most important factor to consider while making any plans to visit it. The general condition of the fort is, though, not good, some important parts — especially some gates — are in good condition. Apparently, some repair work is carried out from time to time. A baoli has recently been repaired. Similarly, a platform around Rani Mahal was repaired or reconstructed just a couple of years ago. However, a large part is occupied by the village or overgrown with wild bushes.
It is not easy to properly maintain such a huge fort. It requires a lot of resources and expertise — which, considering our general disinterest in historic heritage, is almost impossible to provide. However, some steps can be taken to prevent further damage. One such step is to stop the encroachments, especially along the wall near the Kashmiri Gate. Similarly, the construction of new houses inside the fort should not be allowed.
Recognizing its historic and architectural value, UNESCO has declared this fort a World Heritage Site.
Update - 2
My third opportunity to visit my favourite fort of Rohtas came on 16 January 2022. It was a chilly and partially cloudy day — a kind of weather perhaps most suitable for visiting such a huge fort, which demands considerable physical exertion. Though I was visiting this fort after almost six years, a very short time for this five-century-old fort, I was naturally not expecting any noticeable changes. However, it was encouraging to see that some repair and restoration work had been done.
A large part of the fort on its western side has been cleared of thick overgrown vegetation, particularly near the Kabuli, Langarkhani, and Talaqi Gates. Now you can easily reach these gates, which just a few years ago were almost inaccessible. The entire wall on this side is being repaired.
You will see some new aspects of this huge fort in the following pictures.
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ROHTAS FORT
Rohtas Fort, one of the largest forts in South Asia, is a majestic and unique specimen of pure military architecture in the whole subcontinent. Sher Shah Suri whose original name was Farid Khan, ordered for its construction to Todar Mall Khatri and Shahu Sultan in 948 A.H / 1541 A.D. in a record time of seven years. Indigenous Sher Shah Suri belongs to Roa, a famous town in Afghanistan. His paternal grandfather named “Ibrahim Suri” came to Hindustan with his son “Hasan Khan Suri” on special request of “Bahlol Lodhi” (1451–1489) and settled in the pargana of Naruval. Sher Shah Suri the founder of the Suri dynasty, was born in 1486 A.D. at Sasaram (India) while died in the battle of Kalinjar in 1545 A.D. He rendered his services for Jalal Khan, Ibrahim Lodhi, Bahar Khan Lodhi and Mughal Emperor Zaheer-ud-Din Babar for some time. Later on, he got the control of Bihar and Bengal by his wisdom and marched towards Delhi. He defeated the Mughal Emperor Humayun in the Battle of Chausa and Kanauj in 1539 A.D. Getting the control of different areas when Sher Shah Suri reached at this strategic location he ordered for the construction of a gigantic fort. The basic aim to construct the fort was to keep a check on the possible return of the Mughal Emperor Humayun, who had fled to Iran, the Kashmiris and turbulent Gakhars, the old friends of the Mughals.
The circumference of this gigantic fort, irregular in plan, is more than 4 km, while the inner covered area is about 175 acres. The massive fortification is composed of two to three terraces runs along the natural contours of the hillock. The massiveness of the wall varies from 30ft to 40ft while the height varies from 50ft to 80ft. The fortification is 72 bastions, pierced with fourteen gates and provided with about 2377 battlements, machicolation and loopholes for the musketry and pouring molten lead or hot water on the enemy. The interior of the fort is divided into two parts by a massive cross wall. The upper well defended western end of the fort used by the royal chieftains and elites called “Anderkot”, while the rest part of the fort which was used by the common people, manufacturer’s and soldiers is called “Military Area” or “Main Fort”. Anderkot is composed of two residential buildings named as “Haveli Man Singh” and “Rani Palace”. The pure Muslim architectural structure that provides complete details of architectural style of Suri period is Shahi Mosque. Which façade has been decorated with projected “Chajja” over the brackets, recessed niches, miniature battlements and medallions. To meet the need of self sufficiency in water, there are also three step wells within the fort called “Baolis”. Keeping in view the art, architectural, historical and archaeological importance of Rohtas Fort. It was inscribed on World Heritage List in 1997 A.D. and stands protected under the Antiquities Act 1975. It is prohibited to damage, alter or deface any part of the monument. Defaulters will be punished with rigorous imprisonment up to three years or fine of five thousand rupees or both.
(DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF ARCHAEOLOGY, GOVT. OF THE PUNJAB)
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Haveli Maan Singh, located in the citadel area of Rohtas Fort, Haveli named after the trusted general of Mughal Emperor Akbar named Maan Singh. A two-story building constructed with bricks and plastered neatly. A part of the structure has collapsed. There seems originally to have been four rooms of which only one exists now.
The Rani Mahal (Queen’s Palace) is near Haveli Maan Singh. It is a one-storey structure. It is not an original part of the fort and is an example of Hindu architecture and built around the same as the Haveli Maan Singh.
DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF ARCHAEOLOGY GOVT. OF THE PUNJAB
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I knew of the existence of a baoli near the Kabuli Gate, but could not visit it due to debris, narrow passages, and overgrown vegetation. Now, after some restoration and clearing work around the gate, the baoli has become accessible to some extent. I visited it three and a half years ago.
In my opinion, it is definitely the most interesting structure in the whole fort. It is a vast complex, mostly underground, and a marvel of engineering. One should not miss visiting this baoli, but should be very careful. It can be dangerous, especially never visit it alone. I visited it three and a half years ago. Perhaps by now the condition has further improved.
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The well of this baoli. (16.01.2022.)%20-%20Rohtas%20Fort.jpg)
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THE SHAH CHANDWALI GATE COMPLEX
The Chandwali or Chananwali, i.e., the light scattering sage, after whose name the gateway is now known, lies buried in front of it under the shade of a Ber (Jojoba) tree. Although there is nothing to prove it absolutely, tradition asserts that the sage greatly exerted himself in the construction of the gateway, but curiously refused to accept any money in exchange for his labour.
The gateway consists of separate doorways—inner and outer—connected with each other by a tent passage resembling an enclosed little court. A heavily crenellated solid wall, relieved by a series of arched recesses and a staircase leading to its top, protects this passage. This wall breaks bond with the walls of the inner doorway, making it undoubtedly a later addition.
he outer doorway is a simple structure, merely an arched entrance lacking monumental features. But the inner doorway, until recently in a ruinous condition, is a grand double-story building resting upon a high socle between two imposing bastions—each having an octagonal, roofless chamber in the center, accessed by two flights of steps flanking the doorway.
The actual entrance, measuring 13.3 by 8.23 meters, opens under two lofty, receding arches built of dressed sandstone blocks fixed with thin lime mortar. Embossed sunflower (Shamsa) motifs decorate the spandrels. Crowning the gateway were two nicely built kiosks, though only one remains today.
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This mighty fort is one of my favourite historic places in Pakistan. I have visited it three times, but I have still only explored just a fraction of this huge fort. Such an exercise is possible only with a lot of time, complete maps and sketches of the fort, and above all, a well-informed guide. It was good to see that some sections are undergoing repairs, especially along the western wall and the areas around Kabuli to Talaqi Gates. Wild bushes have been cleared to some extent, and pathways have been constructed for easy and safe access. I hope to see more improvements in the coming years.
July 19, 2025.
Islamabad.
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