Saturday, 3 February 2018

082. Hiran Minar (Sheikhupura)

Hiran Minar (literally Deer Tower) is one of the most beautiful historic monuments in Pakistan. It is located at 31°44'35.40"N, 73°57'10.91"E. It is a vast complex spread over an area of almost 100 acres, including a tower, a huge water tank with a large pavilion at its center, and a beautiful park. Half of the area is still preserved as natural forest, making its setting more beautiful and serene.

I visited it on 23 July, 2017. The weather was stifling. I reached there at noon and was not expecting many people at a "historic place" at that time and in such hot and humid weather. But I was proved wrong. There were many people in the park, and I also found the complex in a much better condition compared to my last visit in 2005. The park was in much better shape, neat and clean. The main buildings were also undergoing restoration and repair work. Due to this, we could not enter the tower or the pavilion, as they were closed for maintenance.

As soon as we started taking pictures, a man approached us and informed us that photography was not allowed. Expressing our surprise and asking for the reason, he advised us to speak to his in-charge. That gentleman was Mr. Khaliq Pervez Bhatti. He informed us that due to ongoing restoration work, the department had prohibited photography. Then I applied my time-tested formula, and he allowed us to take a few quick snaps.

(No, I did not intimidate him or offer money. I simply explained my earnest desire and keen interest, respectfully. Try this formula instead of more "traditional" methods and you will see the difference.)

During the Mughal era, this was a hunting reserve for the royal family. Emperor Jahangir was particularly fond of this place. He built a large palace nearby, which later grew into a city and was named Sheikhupura after him, as his father, Emperor Akbar, affectionately called him "Sheikhu." The story goes that Jahangir had a favourite pet antelope called Hans Raj, and when it died, the emperor built a tower at its burial place.

Hiran Minar. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the Minar. (23.07.2017)

http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/sid/871/pakistan/sheikhupura/hiran-minar
The memorial tower stands 30 meters high and is 10 meters wide at its base. Around the perimeter are 214 holes that are believed to have been used as supports for the severed heads of animal trophies taken by the emperor. This form and function is similar to an earlier tower, also known as Hiram Minar, built at Fatepur Sikri. It also resembles the Nim Serai Minar at Malda, whose projections may have been used in a similar manner to display the captured heads of local rebels.To the east of the tower is an enormous rectangular tank with an octagonal baradari at its center. The baradari was used as a royal retreat by the emperor and is accessible via a bridge extending west toward the tower. Small pavilions mark the corners of the tanks and feature pyramidal roofs with entrances on four sides. On each side of the tank are shallow ramps that allowed wildlife in the hunting park easy access to the water. The water level was maintained using a series of channels and catchement basins leading to the site.

Baradari in the middle of the water tank. (23.07.2017)

 Pavilion and the Hiran Minar. (23.07.2017)

Baradari (pavilion) in the water tank. (23.07.2017)

Gate to the causeway. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the pavilion. (23.07.2017)

The gate and the pavilion. (23.07.2017)

Another beautiful view of the gate. (23.07.2017)

A view of the huge water tank. (23.07.2017)

Causeway to the pavilion. (23.07.2017)


ہرن مینار  
جہانگیر پورہ [موجودہ شیخوپورہ] کی بنیاد مغل شہنشاہ جہانگیر نےرکھی تھی۔ جہانگیر کے عہد میں [1605ء تا 1627ء] شیخوپورہ کو شاہی شکارگاہ کی حیثیت حاصل تھی۔ موجودہ بلند و بالا مینار شہنشاہ جہانگیر نے اپنے پالتو ہرن "منسراج" کی قبر کے ساتھ سکندر معین کی نگرانی میں 1607ء میں تعمیر کروایا تھا۔ جیسا کہ "تزکِ جہانگیری" میں مذکور ہے کہ قبر کا پتھر بادشاہ کے حکم سے ہرن کی شکل میں بنوایا گیا اورنیچے دی ہوئی عبارت کا کتبہ عہد جہانگیری کے مشہور خطاط محمد حسین کشمیری نے کندہ کیا تھا۔
                          
                          "دریں فضای دلکش آھوی بدام جہانداد خدا آگاہ نورالدین جہانگیر بادشاہ آمدہ
                           در عرج یک ماہ از وحشتِ صحرائیت برآمدہ سر آمد آھوان خاصہ گشت"

ترجمہ: 
"اس دلکش جگہ پر نورالدین جہانگیر نے ایک ہرن پکڑا۔ ایک ماہ کے عرصہ میں اُس ہرن نے جنگلی عادات و خصائل کو چھوڑ کر پالتو جانوروں کی سی خصوصیات اختیار کر لیں اور جلد ہی شاہی ہرنوں کا سردار بن گیا۔" 
مینار کی تعمیر ایک دائرے کی شکل میں کی گئی ہے جو بلندی کی طرف جاتے ہوئے چھوٹا ہوتا جاتا ہے۔ مینار اوپر سے ہموار ہے اور اس کے چاروں طرف چھوٹی حفاظتی دیوار ہے۔ یہ مینار 103 فٹ اونچا اور قدرے مخروطی شکل کا ہے اور چھ متوازی حصوں میں تقسیم ہے۔ جس کا زمینی حصہ 33 فٹ کے گھیرے میں مثمن یعنی ہشت پہلو ہے جبکہ دوسرے حصے گولائی دار ہیں۔
مینار کی بیرونی سطح پرچودہ [14] قطاروں میں یکساں فاصلے پر 210 سوراخ بنائے گئے ہیں۔ مینار پرچڑھنے کے لیئے 108 گھومتی سیڑھیاں ہیں۔ مینارکو اندر اور باہر سے مکمل طور پر چونے سے پلاستر کیا گیا ہے جبکہ اس کے نچلے حصے میں محرابی طاقچے اور ابھرتے ہوئے اُفقی  پٹوں سے مزین کیا گیا ہے۔ 
بارہ دری و ٹینک:
 ہرن مینار کے مشرقی سمت میں ایک وسیع و عریض تالاب تعمیر کیا گیا ہے۔ تالاب کے وسط میں واقع ہشت پہلو دولت خانہ [بارہ دری] تک پہنچنے کے لیئے اکیس محرابوں پر مشتمل راستہ بھی تعمیر کیا گیا ہے۔ یہ دولت خانہ شہنشاہ جہانگیر کے حکم پر ہرن مینار کی تعمیر کے تیرہ [13] سال بعد 1620ء میں تعمیر کیا گیا۔ مغل شہنشاہ شاہ جہان نے اپنے دور میں اس دولت خانہ اور تالاب میں متعدد تبدیلیاں کروائیں، جس پر 1638ء میں اسی ہزار [80000] روپے خرچ آیا۔ اسی وسیع تالاب کے چاروں کونوں پر خوبصورت مربع شکل کے کمرے تعمیر کیئے گئے ہیں اور ایک خوبصورت ڈیوڑھی بھی تعمی رکی گئی جس کی اندرونی وبیرونی سطح خوبصورت نقاشی سے مزین ہے۔ 
یہ وسیع تالاب مستطیل شکل میں تعمی کیا گیا اور اس کی لمبائی تقریباً 895 فٹ اور چوڑائی 752فٹ ہے۔ اس کے چاروں اطراف 65 فٹ چوڑے گھاٹی دار حصے موجود ہیں جو کہ جنگلی جانوروں کی پیاس بجھانے کے لیئے تعمیر کیئے گئے تھے۔ تالاب کے تمام اطراف مختصر قامت کی حفاظتی دیوار تعمیر کی گئی ہے۔ عہد مغلیہ میں نالہ ایک سے ایک چھوٹی نہر۔ تالاب کو پانی مہیا کرنے کے لیئے تعمیر کی گئی جو اس کے شمال مشرقی کونے میں دیکھی جاسکتی ہے۔ مزید برآں تالاب کو بارش کے پانی سے بھرنے کے لیئے بھی ایک جامع نظام تعمیر کیا گیا تھا۔ 
 Hiran Minar

Jahangir Pura (Present Sheikhupura) was founded by Mughal Emperor Jahangir (1605 - 1627 AD). Royal hunting resort was built near Jahangir Pura under the supervision of Sikandar Moin by the order of Emperor Jahangir. A minar was constructed near the grave of his per antelope "MANS RAJ" in about (1050 AH - 1607 AD). Gravestone, in the shape of Anteleope, was erected at his burial place by the order of Emperor as recorded in "Tuzk-e-Jahangiri". A stone tablet, inscribed by Mulla Muhammad Hussain Kashmiri who was the Chief of the elegant writers of the day, with following lines was fixed at the Minar. 
                             "دریں فضای دلکش آھوی بدام جہانداد خدا آگاہ نورالدین جہانگیر بادشاہ آمدہ
                              در عرج یک ماہ از وحشتِ صحرائیت برآمدہ سر آمد آھوان خاصہ گشت"
 Translation:
"In this enchanting place an antelope came into the World, held in the  net of the God knowing ruler (Nurud-Din Jahangir Badshah). In the space of one month, having overcome his desert fierceness, he became the head of the special antelopes".
The Minar is circular in shape and tapers towards the top, which is flat, with a parapet wall. There are 210 square holes on the outer surface of the Minar; arranged at regular intervals in 14 rows. A spiral staircase consisting of 1018 steps has been provided inside the Minar. The entire exterior as well interior of the Minar has lime plaster, and the lowest tier has been divided intor decorative panels or arched niches and horizontal bands in high relief.
Tank & Baradari:
Facing the grand Minar on the east side is a vast tank with a causeway leading to the octagonal Baradari (Daulat Khana) built in the middle of the Tank. The Baradari was constructed under the order of Emperor Janagir in 1620 AD, 13 years after the construction of the Minar. Later on, substantional additions and alterations were made in the complex by the order of Emperor Shah Jahan at a cost of Rs 80,000/- in 1638 AD. There is a square pavilion at each corner with a gateway to the Baradari. The tanks is rectangular in shape measuring 895' x 752'; has a ramp and a parapet wall. During Mughal days, a channel was cut from the 'Aik rivulet' and connected with the desilting tank at its north-west corner. In addition, an eleborate system for filling up the tank with rain water from the catchment area was devised. The main gateway to the Baradari is a rectangular vestibule. The outer and inner surface of the gateway has been plastered and decorated.

A small pavilion is at one of the corners of the water tank. (23.07.2017)

A beautiful view of the garden. (23.07.2017)

A very old and big tree in the garden. (23.07.2017)

A view of the pavilion through the trees. (23.07.2017)

A pathway in the park. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the park. (23.07.2017)

A rest house and a library. (23.07.2017)

A sidewalk beside the tank. (23.07.2017)

Umair Riaz. (23.07.2017)

Tariq Amir (23.07.2017)

The Hiran Minar complex is just 40 kms west of Lahore near M2 and is easily accessible. After its restoration, I hope it will become even more popular among tourists. It has a rest house and a library too. Its vast area and natural surroundings make it a perfect place for a family picnic and tours for school and college students. 
 

Tariq Amir

February 3, 2018.
Doha - Qatar. 

For a related post, visit:

Tuesday, 30 January 2018

081. Jandiala Sher Khan (An Old Baoli & A Mosque)

Jandiala Sher Khan is well known for being the birthplace of the famous Punjabi poet Waris Shah, the writer of the most celebrated love story of this region, Heer Ranjha. He was born here in 1722 and died and was buried here in 1798. The town has a beautiful mausoleum of this poet, who is known as the Shakespeare of the Punjabi language. His mausoleum is is situated in the same town, which I visited on 24.03.2011.

Jandiala Sher Khan is an old town, and during the Mughal period, it was a significant place. During my first visit almost eight years ago, I did not know about the existence of a baoli and an old mosque in the town. The purpose of my second visit was specifically to explore this baoli and the adjacent mosque. I was informed by a local man that the baoli and the adjacent mosque were almost in ruins and had only recently been restored. That was indeed happy news. The baoli is located at 31°49'8.00"N, 73°54'53.01"E, in District Sheikhupura.

A view of the Baoli in Jandiala Sher Khan from the west. (23.07.2017)

A closer view of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

View of the baoli and an old mosque from the south side. (23.07.2017)

View of the baoli from the east. (23.07.2017)

View from the northeast. Entrance to the steps. (23.07.2017)

In front of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Another beautiful view of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

The actual well. Covered with an iron grill. (23.07.2017)

The baoli. (23.07.2017) 

The well. (23.07.2017)

Dome of the baoli from inside. (23.07.2017)

Steps leading to the water level. (23.07.2017)

Steps of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Interior view of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

The water level. (23.07.2017)

The lofty interior of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the interior. (23.07.2017)

Dome from inside. (23.07.2017)

A cupola on the roof. (23.07.2017)

Another cupola. (23.07.2017)

Umair Riaz. (23.07.2017)

View of the well from the roof of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

The mosque from the roof of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Inscriptions beside the baoli. Including a copy of the original plaque (on the left). 


باولی جنڈ یالہ شیر خان مغلیہ فن تعمیر کا شاہکار

اس باؤلی کی تعمیر 976ھ مطابق 1568ء کو ہوئی۔ باؤلی اس کنویں کو کہتے ہیں، جس میں سطح آب تک سیڑھیاں بنائی گئی ہوں۔ اس باؤلی پر لگا ہوا اصل کتبہ پتھر کی لوح پر سطح پر ابھرے ہوئے سات فارسی اشعار پر مشتمل ہے۔ یہ کتبہ جو اس عمارت کے ماتھے کا جھومر تھا، 1975 میں ڈپٹی کمشنر نے بحکم جنرل غلام جیلانی خان، سابق گورنر پنجاب، اس باؤلی سے الگ کرکے عجائب گھر لاہور ارسال کردیا۔ جو کہ آج بھی اسلامی گیلری عجائب گھر لاہور میں دیکھا جاسکتا ہے۔ اس عمارت کی ترمیم وآرائش جناب شاہد رفیع اللہ خان، وفاقی سیکریٹری آثار قدیمہ حکومت پاکستان نے 2008 میں کروائی۔ گزشتہ 36 سال سے یہ باؤلی بے نام و نشان تھی۔ اس تاریخی ورثہ کی ناگفتہ بہ حالت دیکھتے ہوئے باشعور معززین علاقہ دل گرفتہ تھے۔ چنانچہ انہوں نے اس تاریخی ورثہ کی نشاۃ ثانیہ کا مصمم ارادہ کرلیا اور 2011 میں پہلے پہلے کتبہ کی جگہ نیا کتبہ اصل ہی کی طرح دوبارہ بنوا کرلگوا دیا اوراس کا اردو ترجمہ بھی منسلک کروادیا تاکہ لوگ اس باؤلی کی تاریخی حیثیت سے روشناس ہوسکیں۔ جن حضرات نے تنصیب الواح کا اہتمام کیا ان ک اسمائے گرامی درج کیئے جاتے ہیں:

  •  بدست:                جناب شیر اکبر خان ولد محمود اکبر خان  (ایم این اے)                   آل شیر خان
  • زیر سرپرستی:     جناب سعید احمد خان ولد غلام محمد خان (ریٹائرڈ ایس پی)               آل شیر خان
  • تحقیق و تعاون:     سائیں معراج دین ولد حکیم محمد ابراہیم سوشل ورکر و جنرل کونسلر جنڈیالہ شیر خان 
  • خصوصی کاوش: جناب یونس محمد قاضی ولد محمد عبداللہ                                       جنڈیالہ شیر خان 

تاریخ تنصیب: یکم محرم الحرام 1433ھ مطابق 27 نومبر 2011ء  

Baoli of Jandiala Sher Khan – A Marvel of Mughal Architecture

This baoli (stepwell) was constructed in 976 Hijri, corresponding to 1568 AD. A baoli is a type of well in which steps are built leading down to the water level. The original inscription on this baoli was engraved in raised Persian script on a stone tablet, containing seven Persian couplets. This inscription, once the crown jewel of the building’s facade, was removed from the baoli in 1975 by the Deputy Commissioner on the orders of General Ghulam Jilani Khan, the former Governor of Punjab, and sent to the Lahore Museum. It can still be seen today in the Islamic Gallery of the Lahore Museum.

The renovation and restoration of this structure were carried out in 2008 by Mr. Shahid Rafiullah Khan, the Federal Secretary of Archaeology, Government of Pakistan. For the previous 36 years, this baoli remained without a name or identity. Seeing the deplorable condition of this historical heritage, the conscious and respectable people of the area were deeply saddened. Thus, they resolved to revive this historic legacy. In 2011, they had a new inscription made—exactly like the original—and placed it at the original location. Additionally, they had its Urdu translation installed alongside, so that people could become aware of the historical significance of this baoli.

The names of the individuals who arranged for the installation of the plaques are listed below:

By the efforts of: Mr. Sher Akbar Khan, son of Mahmood Akbar Khan 
(Member National Assembly), Descendant of Sher Khan.

Under the supervision of: Mr. Saeed Ahmad Khan, son of Ghulam Muhammad Khan 
(Retired Superintendent of Police),  Descendant of Sher Khan.

Research and Support: Saeen Miraj Din, son of Hakim Muhammad Ibrahim,
Social worker and General Councillor, Resident of Jandiala Sher Khan

Special Contribution: Mr. Younas Muhammad Qazi, son of Muhammad Abdullah, 
Resident of Jandiala Sher Khan

Date of Installation:  1st Muharram-ul-Haram, 1433 Hijri, corresponding to 27th November 2011



The Persian couplets provide details about the construction of this baoli. It was built during the reign of Emperor Akbar by the noble Sher Khan, in response to the demand / wish of Syed Ghaznavi. The verses lavishly praise Sher Khan’s generosity as well as the beauty and grandeur of the baoli.

In search of some information about the baoli or Jandiala Sher Khan, I found a website that gives a lot of information about this monument. The link is given below:

http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/sid/1132/pakistan/sheikhupura/jandiala-baoli-and-mosque

بعہد شہنشاہ اکبر لقب ۔ ۔ ۔ ہمایوں نسب خسرو کامیاب
بفرمودہ سید غزنوی۔ ۔ ۔ رفع المکان خان عالیجناب
محیط سخا و کرم شیر خان۔ ۔ ۔ لہ ابرار کف ہمتش بردہ آب
بنا کرد وائے زمین کرم۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ لہ شد رشک بر چشمہ آفتاب
زد لوش بودد لوگر دوں خجل۔ ۔ ۔ ۔زچرخش بود چرخ در پیچ و تاب
مہ نخشب از شرم ناید بروں۔ ۔ ۔ ۔اگر یکشب ایں وای بیند بخواب
از تاریخ آن گربہ پرسد خرد۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ بہ از چاہ نخشب بگو در جواب
In the reign of Emperor Akbar, the successful king, from the blessed genealogy.

on the precept of Syed Ghaznavi the prestigious and distinguished Khan.

Sher Khan the embodiment of generosity, from whose open hands the sky got its glow.
From his philanthropy, constructed a step-well, from which the Chashma-e-Aftab (Spring of the Sun) also stood envious.
Seeing the bucket of this step-well, the bucket of the sky (the Sun) is embarrassed and facing its pulley, the sky, is distressed.
If the Mah-e-Nakhshab (Legendary moon of Persia which rises from a well called Nakhshab) sees this step-well in the night, due to hesitation, would not try to come out of its well.
If wisdom would discover its Tareekh, then say in response ”Beh az Cha-i-Nakhshab" (Better than Nakhshab). 
(Tareekh refers to a date using Abjad numerals, which corresponds to the year 976 A.H., or 1564 in the Gregorian calendar).
An old mosque near the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

Interior of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

Mehrab of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the interior of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

View of the mosque from outside the boundary wall. (23.07.2017)

Courtyard of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

One of the three wooden doors of the mosque. (23.07.2017) 

Mausoleum of the Syed Waris Shah can be seen from the roof of the baoli.  (23.07.2017)

The design of the step-well is quintessentially Akbarian. The groundplan is conceived as a central domed chamber surrounded by eight smaller rooms, a motif known as hasht bihisht ("eight paradises"), a Mughal innovation derived from Timurid precedent. In Akbar's era, the hasht bihisht motif was employed in all manner of buildings, such that "Ideas of funerary and residential architecture were almost entirely interchangeable" (Koch, p. 46). However, palace dwellings, gatehouses, and other non-mortuary buildings usually employed a flat roof rather than a projecting central dome, a rule maintained here. The profile of the roof was typically enlivened with multiple chattris that substituted for domes; at times these took the form of highly refined pith-helmet like structures such as those found at Fatepur Sikri, whereas those at Jandiala were less refined and more substantial.
Sher Khan's endowment of the baoli was immortalized by a plaque in Persian calligraphy that used to hang on the site, but was moved to the Lahore Museum for safekeeping in 1971 (for photos, refer to the final two images in the series above). The plaque describes when the baoli was built and praises its construction in poetic and flowery language: 

 According to drawings prepared by the Department of Archaeology, the superstructure of the baoli measures 21.62 meters on each side. The baoli itself has an internal radius of 7.54 meters.
As late as 2010 or thereabouts, the baoli was in extremely poor condition and partially collapsed. It was recently restored with a total reconstruction of the destroyed portions. Although the reconstructed pieces lack the ornamentation and elegance of the original design, they allow the visitor to experience the scope and grandeur of Sher Khan's vision. 

Sketches Drawn by Timothy M Ciccone, ink on mylar based on CAD rendering.
The nearby tomb of the famous Punjabi poet Waris Shah. (24.03.2021.)

This baoli is a very important structure because there are only a few baolis in Pakistan. At the moment, I can recall only five: the baolis in Rohtas Fort, Wan Bhachran in District Mianwali, near Dina, Wan Tarap in District Attock, and another in Wah.

I am very happy that the Department of Archaeology is now paying attention to the restoration of old historical buildings. After Katas Temples, Sheranwala Bagh, and Hiran Minar, this is the fourth site I have recently visited and found to be completely restored. The concerned department has indeed done a commendable job. It is also very easily accessible, as you can see in the map given below.


Tariq Amir

January 30, 2018.
Doha - Qatar.

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