Tuesday, 17 June 2014

031. Khurd - Birthplace of Great Actor Sunil Dutt

I'm sure most of you know Sunil Dutt, yes, the father of Munna Bhai! But what many might not know is that he was born in a village in District Jhelum, Pakistan. While the list of Bollywood actors who trace their roots to present-day Pakistan is long and fascinating, Sunil Dutt is the only one whose exact place of birth I’ve been able to locate.

Sunil Dutt was born on 6 June 1929 in the village of Khurd, District Jhelum. His father passed away before the Partition in 1947, after which his family migrated to India. Initially, they settled in a small village in Ambala district, and later moved to Lucknow. Eventually, he made his way to Bombay, where he pursued a career in films and rose to stardom, particularly with the release of the iconic film Mother India (1957).

He later married Nargis, a legendary actress and a Muslim, with whom he shared a deep bond. Sunil Dutt was not only a successful actor but also a committed social worker and humanitarian, remembered for his tireless efforts to help the poor and promote communal harmony and peace in society.

His connection to Pakistan and Muslims remained strong throughout his life. Perhaps this enduring love and empathy partly explain the hardships his son, Sanjay Dutt faced later in life. But regardless, Sunil Dutt was a man of great heart, vision, and service.

In 1998, he visited Pakistan. And now, instead of telling you the rest of the story myself, I invite you to read it in his own words.

The Rediff Interview / Sunil Dutt

'We all are one, whichever religion we belong to'

May 25, 2005
Sunil Dutt
Actor-politician Sunil Dutt touched many people's lives in his 74 years (he would have been 75 on June 6). And journalist Lata Khubchandani is one of those who remembers Mr Dutt very fondly.

She recalls her last interview with Mr Dutt, just a few weeks before his death. He was in a very reminiscent mood:
I came to Mumbai in my teens. I managed to get a place at Kala Ghoda (south Mumbai) in the Army/Navy building.I shared a room with eight people, which included tailors, barbers, all sorts of people. I studied at the Jaihind College (in south Mumbai) and also worked with BEST (the Bombay Electric and Transport Undertaking).

It used to be very hot those days. We would just leave our room and sleep on the pavement. We used to sleep right outside an Irani restaurant. It used to open at 5.30 am every day -- and that was our wake-up call. As soon as it opened, we would ask for tea. My days started that way, before I left for my early morning classes. It was fun.

  We didn't have much money those days. I could afford only the cheapest fare.  
Sunil Dutt with his dogI recall two other restaurants that I used to go to. In Dadar, at Khodadad Circle (northcentral Mumbai), there was another Irani café which we frequented. Then, there was another at Churchgate station (south Mumbai), where we would sit and eat khari (a crunchy, baked biscuit) and chaiWhere was the money for anything else?
It was difficult to live in the Mumbai of the olden days without the Irani cafés. Those were the restaurants we frequented. Today's generation goes to 5-star hotels.

I used to be facinated by the waiters who could carry ten to 12 cups of tea and serve everyone at once. The cups would never fall. Watching this feat was a favourite pastime.
The Irani cafés have contributed to all of us strugglers. Their wonderful tea, their baked items. I recall the breadrolls we used to eat.We would sit in groups and discuss our day's events. Our dreams. Those days hold a lot of pleasurable nostalgia for me.

I remember when I visited my village (in Pakistan) again after 50 years. I was invited by then prime minister Nawaz Sharief. He was very kind when I told him my desire to visit my village. He made all the arrangements for my visit.

My village is called Khurd. It is about 14 miles from Jhelum city, which is on the banks of the Jhelum river.
I have always felt that the people of Pakistan are as affectionate and caring as our own people. You will be surprised (if I told you that) when I went to my village, the entire village gathered to welcome me.
I thought they were doing this because I am an actor and they know me. But it was because they genuinely felt that I belonged there, and that I was coming back for a visit.The village youth gave me a huge welcome with banners, saying, 'Sunil Dutt, welcome to Khurd!' I got a big reception there. All those who studied with me came to meet me. (I met) women who were then 10 years old, (and)were now 60 or 65. My brother's nickname is Soma. They asked about him, my sister Rani and my mother Kulwanti. They remembered all their names. Imagine, after 50 years!

It would be understandable if they did that to me -- am an actor. But my family has not been in the public eye.
For me, it was a really emotional moment. I told them my mother had passed away.
Sunil DuttIn Punjab, when someone passes away, women beat their chests. When they heard about my mother, they started beating their chests as if someone from their own family had died. Where would one get more sincere emotion than this?

To think that after 50 years, people forget their relatives. These people gave me so much emotion and sentiment. I was deeply touched.
They took me out to the fields. They told me, "Yeh zameen teri hain (this land is yours], Balla.' My name is Balraj. I was called Balla. I told them, 'No, it belongs to you.' They said, 'Nahin, tum yahan aa jaoTumhein de denge (No, you come here. We will give it to you).'

All this was not lip service. You could sense their sincerity, their genuineness. I am an actor-director. I can read a face and tell whether the person is genuine or not. There were television channels (present). The villagers were asked why they were giving me so much affection. They replied, 'It is not because of him. It is because of his forefathers who lived here and gave us so much respect. They were fine people and respected our religion. They were landlords. There is a dargah at the outskirts of our village. When they (Dutt's forefathers) neared the dargah, they would alight from their horses, walk on foot till they went past the dargah, and then get back on their horses. They gave us so much respect. Why wouldn't we respect them?'

My father died when I was just five. We lived in the village without any problem. There were more Muslims than Hindus there. During Partition, my entire family was saved by a Muslim. His name was Yakub -- a friend of my father's who lived a mile-and-a-half away from our village. He helped us escape to the main city, Jhelum.
I left Pakistan after I my matriculation.

I never had the chance to visit Lahore. I visited Karachi when I was invited to attend Benazir Bhutto's marriage.
I was very keen that my wife (Nargis, who passed away in May 1981) should also see my village, how we went to school.
Sunil DuttI used to tell her stories about our life there.
In Jhelum, I studied at the DAV School. I travelled to school on horseback all through my middle school years, that is from Class V to Class VIII. My school was eight miles away, and there was no other conveyance in those days. Being zamindars, we had many horses. One horse was kept specially for me to go to school. I also remember Rawalpindi, where I studied at DAV School for a year. There was Murree Road, where my school was. Murree is a hill station. It was called Ko Murree. 'Ko' means mountain. Buses plied from Rawalpindi to Murree. Then there was Garden (actually Gordon) College, through which we would walk to get to our school. DAV College was just opposite Garden College, but Garden had this huge complex which we loved. There was this area called Naya Mohalla, where my relatives were. I would live there with them.

Films were taboo for us in those days. We would just look at the posters. My wife was keen to go to Pakistan and see all this. Unfortunately, she couldn't. I really feel this process that has started between our two countries is very positive. Somehow, this hatred should come to an end. I am a believer of nonviolence. I believe we all are one, whichever religion we belong to. I wish it culminates in something positive and we can both grow economically. The money we spend on weapons can be used to give water to the people, to educate everybody, to give them medical aid and to give employment to the youth of the country. If there is no friendship with one's neighbours, no one can progress. Look at Canada and the USA -- both countries help each other.


The above words reveal what kind of man Sunil Dutt truly was. I had the chance to visit his birthplace on 9 April 2014, during the final hours of my vacation in Pakistan. I left my village Lilla (also in District Jhelum) with my cousin Nasir, determined to find the roots of this legendary actor.

Our first stop was Bajwala Kalan (formerly Bajwala Duttan), located at 32°45'26.60" N, 73°30'48.10" E. We discovered that while some Dutt families had indeed lived there before 1947, it was not the Dutt family we were searching for. So, we continued our journey toward Khurd, our real destination.

Sunil Dutt had visited this village in 1998, sixteen years earlier. Surprisingly, many villagers still remembered his visit. A local boy pointed to an old Hindu house and said it belonged to Sunil Dutt. Unfortunately, the house was locked and the current owners were away, which left us disappointed.

Still curious, I knocked on the door of the adjoining house, where we were greeted by an elderly man, Zafarullah Sahib. He gently corrected the boy’s information and directed us to the actual house of Sunil Dutt, located a little further away. He also happened to be a friend of the current owner.

Zafarullah Sahib, over 75 years old, is a refugee from Jalandhar District, who endured the horrors of Partition. He shared that 16 members of his family were killed in 1947. The pain of that tragedy remains etched in his memory. He expressed his bitterness about Partition, and even voiced strong criticisms of Quaid-e-Azam, Liaquat Ali Khan, and Pakistan’s political decisions in later years, including our alliances in foreign wars. Though I responded with some words in defense, I chose not to argue further, out of respect for his age, his loss, and his heartfelt honesty. I could understand, to some extent, the depth of his sorrow and frustration.

Finally, at the house of Sunil Dutt, we were warmly welcomed by the current owner, Yaqoob Sahib, a gentleman in his seventies. His kindness and hospitality were beyond words. We stayed for about 20 minutes, but it felt as though we had known each other for years.

In a strange twist of fate, Yaqoob Sahib’s family migrated from Ambala district.the same district where Sunil Dutt’s family had resettled after leaving Khurd in 1947. Even more remarkably, the man who helped Sunil Dutt’s family during their migration was also named Yaqoob. Some coincidences speak louder than fiction.

This house is located at 32°48'29.20" N, 73°34'31.70" E, a simple home with a powerful story, filled with memories, hospitality, and history.

Yaqoob sahib, the current owner of the house of Sunil Dutt (left) and his friend and neighbour Zafarullah sahib (right), in front of the house. (09.04.2014.)

An old room in the house. (09.04.2014.)

New verandah, but the door is old, the original one. (09.04.2014.)

Another old section of the house. (09.04.2014.)

Courtyard of the house. (09.04.2014.)

Yaqoob sahib, the current owner of the house of Sunil Dutt. (09.04.2014.)

Zafarullah sahib, a resident of Khurd, migrated from Jalandhar in 1947. (09.04.2014.)

View of the house of Sunil Dutt, from the outside. (09.04.2014.)

Yaqoob Sahib told me that they had reconstructed parts of the house a few years ago, but some sections still remained original, just as they were before 1947. As we sat in their home, enjoying cold Seven Up, his son, Israr Ahmad joined us. He kindly offered to show us the ancestral agricultural lands that once belonged to the Dutt family. His family had been allotted 25 acres from those lands after Partition. Israr told us that one of his brothers is an engineer, while he runs a shop in the village.

Ancestral agricultural lands of Sunil Dutt. I was told that a well existed there. But now there is a diesel motor. (09.04.2014.)

Israr Ahmad, Zafarullah sahib and Tariq Amir. (09.04.2014.)

Beautiful view of the fields. (09.04.2014.)

View of Khurd village. (09.04.2014.)

An old pre partition house in Khurd. A Hindu family used to live here. (09.04.2014.)

Another view of the above-mentioned house. (09.04.2014.)

Khurd. (09.04.2014.)

View of a street in Khurd. (09.04.2014.)

Street leading to the village, view from the main Pind Dadan Khan - Jhelum road. (09.04.2014.)

It is very easy to reach Khurd. It is just 20 kilometers away from Jhelum city, on the main Jhelum–Pind Dadan Khan road. It is a prosperous village, with fertile agricultural lands, and a large number of people from this area are working in foreign countries. It was a pleasant experience to visit this village and meeting its wonderful people. 


Tariq Amir

June 17, 2014.
Doha - Qatar.

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030. Tomb of Sultan Shahab ud Din Mohammad Ghauri and the grave of Major General Nawabzada Muhammad Sher Ali Khan Pataudi

Sultan Shahabuddin Muhammad Ghauri is a well-known figure in South Asian history. While Muhammad bin Qasim and, three centuries later, Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni had opened the gates of India to Muslim conquests, their campaigns did not extend permanent rule beyond present-day Pakistan. The task of firmly establishing Muslim power in northern India ultimately fell to Muhammad Ghauri.

He was born in 1149 AD in the Ghor region of Afghanistan, a rugged mountainous area located between Ghazni and Herat. His brother, Ghiyath al-Din Muhammad, was the ruler of the region, and together they expanded their domain at the expense of the declining Ghaznavid Empire.

Muhammad Ghauri first invaded India in 1175, capturing Multan, and in 1178, he attempted to invade Gujarat but faced a severe defeat. However, in 1181 AD, he successfully captured Lahore, the last stronghold of the Ghaznavids, effectively opening the path to deeper incursions into northern India.

In 1191 AD, he launched an invasion into the heart of India, where he was met by Prithvi Raj Chauhan, the ruler of Ajmer and Delhi, at the First Battle of Tarain near the modern-day town of Taraori (29°48'08" N, 76°55'53" E) in Haryana. Ghauri was defeated in that battle but returned with renewed force the following year. In 1192, at the Second Battle of Tarain, he inflicted a decisive defeat on Prithvi Raj, captured Delhi, and appointed Qutb ud-Din Aibak as the governor. This victory laid the foundation of the Delhi Sultanate, a Muslim rule that would shape Indian history for centuries. Within a few years, his generals extended control as far east as Bengal.

A few years later, while returning from India to Ghazni, Muhammad Ghauri was assassinated by unknown assailants. Historians still debate the identity of his killers—possibilities include the Gakhars, Khokhars, or Ismailis. The assassination occurred at Damiak, a small village in Tehsil Sohawa, District Jhelum, located at 33°11'40.60" N, 73°29'28.10" E.

In 1994–95, Dr. Abdul Qadeer Khan, the renowned Pakistani nuclear scientist, took a personal interest in preserving this historical site. Under his patronage, a beautiful and grand tomb was constructed over the grave of Sultan Ghauri. The white marble structure, situated in the open green fields of Potohar, stands today as a fitting tribute to a man who altered the course of the subcontinent’s history.


The entrance of the tomb of Sultan Shahab ud Din Ghauri. (30.03.2014.)

A beautiful view of the tomb from the southeast. (30.03.2014.)

Wonderful setting of the tomb in a very beautiful garden. (30.03.2014.)

View from the northwestern side. (30.03.2014.)

View from a distance. (30.03.2014.)

View from the northern side. After entering the main gate. (30.03.2014.)
Nasir Mahmood and Tariq Amir. (30.03.2014.)

Tombstone of the grave. (30.03.2014.)

 "Martyrdom of the king of land and sea, since the inception of the world, there has been no king like him. He got martyred on 3rd of Sha'ban 602 AH, at Damiak on his way to Ghazni." 

The Persian lines are by Minhaj Siraj. I translated the Urdu translation given below the Persian. 

Grave of the Sultan. (30.03.2014.)

Inner view of the dome. (30.03.2014.)

Another view of the grave. (30.03.2014.)

A brief history of the Sultan in Urdu. (30.03.2014.)

A brief history of the Sultan in English. (30.03.2014.)

These are the graves of three bodyguards of the Sultan, who died along with him. (30.03.2014.)

One surprising discovery a visitor makes when visiting this mausoleum is the grave of Major General Nawabzada Muhammad Sher Ali Khan Pataudi, which lies within the compound of Sultan Ghauri’s tomb. He was the second son of Nawab Ibrahim Ali Khan Pataudi and was born on 13 May 1913 in Pataudi, Haryana (28°19'11.10" N, 76°46'57.80" E). He passed away on 29 May 2002 in Lahore.

Interestingly, he was the uncle of Mansoor Ali Khan Pataudi, the former Indian cricket captain, and thus the great-uncle of Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan.

It remains unclear why Major General Sher Ali Khan was buried at this site. Perhaps he was drawn to the historic significance, serene atmosphere, and beautiful landscape surrounding the tomb of Sultan Ghauri. Whatever the reason, his resting place adds another layer of historical intrigue to this already remarkable location.

Grave of Major General Nawabzada Sher Ali Khan Pataudi. (30.03.2014.)


Major General Nawabzada Sher Ali Khan Pataudi, Hilal-e-Jurrat
Son of
Nawab Muhammad Ibrahim Ali Khan 
Ruler of the State of Paraudi
 Respectable Mother
Begum Shehr Bano

13 May, 1913 AD.     -      5 Jamadi Al Thani, 1331 AH.
29 May, 2002 AD.     -     16 Rabi Al Awwal, 1423 AH.

                                Below is the Ayat Al Kursi, a verse from the Holy Quran.                                  

Grave of Nawabzada Sher Ali Khan in peaceful surroundings. (30.03.2014.)

Another view of the grave. (30.03.2014.)

Damiak is quite easy to reach. From the Zero Point in Islamabad, travel on the Grand Trunk (GT) Road towards Sohawa, which is approximately 73 kilometers away. Just before entering Sohawa town, take a left turn and continue for another 13 kilometers. You can use Google Maps for navigation or simply ask the locals for directions.

Tariq Amir

17 June, 2014.
Doha - Qatar. 


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Sunday, 15 June 2014

029. Gogera Fort and Old Building of Gogera Courts

Gogera is an old town with a rich historical legacy. In the past, it held far greater importance in the region than it does today. Until the 1850s, it served as the district headquarters—covering areas that are now part of the present-day Okara and Sahiwal districts.

I have already written about Gogera's association with Rai Ahmad Khan Kharal's 1857 rebellion against British rule and the grave of Assistant Commissioner Lord Berkeley, who was killed during that uprising. For details, please refer to that earlier post:

028. Tomb of Rai Ahmad Khan Kharal and Grave of Lord Berkley

Here, however, I want to draw attention to a lesser-known but equally significant site in Gogera، a small fort. This fort is believed to be around four hundred years old, dating back to the Mughal era. During that time, it was used as both a jail and a treasury house for the district. The structure reflects the typical utilitarian architecture of Mughal administrative outposts.

At present, a local family is residing within the fort premises. Like many such historical buildings across the country, it is in a dilapidated condition. Unfortunately, there appears to be no official effort from any government department to preserve, restore, or protect this important piece of heritage.

View of the Gogera Fort from the south. (22.03.2014.)

Southwestern bastion of the fort. (22.03.2014.)

Southeastern bastion of the fort. (22.03.2014.)

Entrance to the Gogera Fort, on the western side. (22.03.2014.)

A house inside the fort. (22.03.2014.)

Northern wall of the fort. (22.03.2014.)

Northeastern bastion of the fort. (22.03.2014.)

A general view of the fort from the eastern side. (22.03.2014.)

The Gogera Fort is located at 30°57'41.90" N, 73°19'38.40" E, to the north of the town of Bangla Gogera. Just to the west of this fort stands the building of the Gogera High School. Interestingly, the school is housed in an old colonial-era structure, which originally served as a court building during British rule. This building, designed in a traditional style typical of British-era public architecture, still retains its charm and historical character. It is situated at 30°57'41.90" N, 73°19'33.90" E.


Entrance of the Govt. High School Gogera, the old building of courts. (22.03.2014.)

Beautiful garden of the school. (22.03.2014.) 

                                     
Main building of the old courts.  (22.03.2014.)

 View from the east.  (22.03.2014.)

View from the east.  (22.03.2014.)

A distant view from the east. A huge banyan tree in the foreground.  (22.03.2014.)

I welcome your comments on this post and would appreciate any additional information you can share to help enhance our collective knowledge.

Tariq Amir

15 June, 2014.
Doha - Qatar 


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