167. The Grand Trunk Road aka The Kings Road: Delhi To Kabul!

The Grand Trunk Road, running from Kabul in the rugged Hindu Kush mountains to Sonargaon in the verdant plains of Bengal, is definitely among the most famous highways in the world, if not the most famous. Let me add here that several termination points of this great thoroughfare are given in Bengal, including Teknaf. It covers a distance of almost 2,400 km, running through the entire width of Punjab and the Indo-Gangetic plain. Along its course, it connects hundreds of historically and commercially important towns and cities and crosses dozens of mighty rivers.

As Rome was not built in a day, similarly, this great road was not built in one go. The existence of a grand road is mentioned in many sources, which record its presence in some form since 500 BC. Two centuries later, Chandragupta Maurya and later his grandson Ashoka were credited with building and then improving this road. However, many centuries later, Sher Shah Suri (1486–1545 AD) earned the reputation of its true builder by systematically improving the quality and the facilities provided along the way. He is especially praised for constructing sarais, protected halting places with excellent facilities like accommodation, food, water, fodder, and above all, security. During the Mughal period, the standard and the number of sarais further increased, along with shady trees, baolis (step wells), and kos minars.

No government could ignore the importance of this vital road. Years later, the famous English poet and writer Rudyard Kipling noted its significance in the following words:

And truly the Grand Trunk Road is a wonderful spectacle. It runs straight, bearing without crowding India’s traffic for fifteen hundred miles—such a river of life as nowhere else exists in the world. They looked at the green-arched, shade-flecked length of it, the white breadth speckled with slow-pacing folk… (Kipling, R., Kim, 1900)

In this article, I shall trace the route of this great road's northwestern section from Delhi to Kabul. Recently, I came across a book, "Later Mughal History of the Panjab, 1707 - 1993", by Hari Ram Gupta. It is a very good book on the history of the last decades of the Mughal rule in India and the rise of the Sikh Power. Keeping in view the importance of GT Road in the history of Punjab, he has traced the route of this road from Delhi to Kabul and has mentioned 75 halting places along this road of approximately 1,200 km in length.  

He used many sources in compiling this list, including the following:

"In 1796, Sayyid Imam ud Din Husaini of Lucknow joined Shah Zaman at Lahore, and followed him in his train to Afghanistan, returning in 1798. His work Tarikh-i-Husain Shahi contains interesting details of the invader's road. In 1797, J. Lumsden, the British Resident at Lucknow, despatched Sheikh Rahim Ali to Kabul, and the best part of his narrative is on the above subject."

These sources are 225 years old and obviously, tell about the condition of the road and sarais. etc. at that time. Even this list is by no means complete or perfect. It is understandable, the sarais were not constructed by one government during a particular period. These were built by different dynasties over a time period of many centuries. So naturally, some decayed, neglected, and disappeared, while meantime, many new ones were constructed. 

I found 23 sarais or their exact locations on the route from Delhi to Kabul, 5 of them are not given in this list. Hence, I have not numbered them. While 16 halting places could not be identified. Perhaps over time, the names have been changed or places merged into new settlements and cities or simply disappeared. 

All the places mentioned in relation to this route, geographically can be distributed as such. 

            Delhi:                             2 (Excluding Delhi city)

            Haryana:                        10

            Punjab (India):               18

            Punjab (Pakistan):          28

            Islamabad:                      2 

            Khyber Pakhtunkhwa:    6

            Not Known:                    1

            Afghanistan:                   12 

  

	Sarai Name / Locality	Distance	Exact Location	Area (Acres)	State / Province
01	Badlki Ki Sarai	9 Miles	28°43'8.76"N, 77°10'3.53"E	1.6	Delhi
02	Narela	7 Miles			Delhi
03	Sonipat	11 Miles			Haryana
04	Ganaur	10 Miles			Haryana
05	Samalkha	7 Miles			Haryana
06	Panipat	11 Miles			Haryana
07	Gharaunda	11 Miles			Haryana
08	Karnal	10 Miles			Haryana
09	Taraori / Azimabad	8 Miles			Haryana
10	Thanesar	13 Miles	29°58'38.96"N, 76°49'41.71"E	2.8	Haryana
11	Shahabad				Haryana
12	Ambala	17 Miles			Haryana
12A	Sarai Mughal		30°26'7.17"N, 76°41'9.66"E	2.2	Punjab (IN)
13	Raja Sarai / Rajpura	13 Miles			Punjab (IN)
14	Sirhind	15 Miles	30°38'14.36"N, 76°23'50.24"E	2.2	Punjab (IN)
15	Khanna	11 Miles			Punjab (IN)
16	Sarai Lashkari Khan	9 Miles	30°45'18.13"N, 76° 5'24.12"E	6.4	Punjab (IN)
16A	Mughal Sarai, Doraha		30°47'53.41"N, 76° 1'18.22"E	7.3	Punjab (IN)
17	Ludhiana	18 Miles			Punjab (IN)
18	Phillaur	8 Miles	31° 0'41.83"N, 75°47'23.47"E	7.5	Punjab (IN)
19	Sarai Nurmahal	12 Miles	31° 5'33.38"N, 75°35'40.17"E	6	Punjab (IN)
20	Nakodar Sarai	8 Miles			Punjab (IN)
21	Dakhni Sarai	5 Miles	31°10'18.75"N, 75°24'41.67"E	6.6	Punjab (IN)
22	Tuti Sarai	12 Miles	Place Not Identified		Punjab (IN)
23	Sultanpur	12 Miles	31°12'50.38"N, 75°11'25.87"E	5	Punjab (IN)
24	Goindwal	13 Miles			Punjab (IN)
25	Aurangabad Sarai	8 Miles	Place Not Identified		Punjab (IN)
26	Nur ud Din Sarai	8 Miles	Place Not Identified		Punjab (IN)
27	Sarai Amanat Khan	11 Miles	31°30'39.07"N, 74°41'34.93"E	6.5	Punjab (IN)
28	Raja Tal	8 Miles			Punjab (IN)
29	Khankhanan Sarai	12 Miles			Punjab (PK)
30	Lahore	7 Miles			Punjab (PK)
31	Akbari Sarai, Shahdara	4 Miles	31°37'21.30"N, 74°17'59.26"E	10	Punjab (PK)
32	Sarai Fazalabad	8 Miles			Punjab (PK)
33	Pul Shah Daula	10 Miles			Punjab (PK)
34	Eminabad	11 Miles	32° 2'10.51"N, 74°15'41.93"E	4.3	Punjab (PK)
35	Sarai Kachchi / Gujar Sarai				Punjab (PK)
36	Sarai Gakhar (Sarai Cheema)	10 Miles			Punjab (PK)
37	Nizamabad / Kot Khizri	6 Miles	32°22'53.46"N, 74° 7'46.83"E	7.6	Punjab (PK)
38	Wazirabad	4 Miles	32°27'0.39"N, 74° 6'54.03"E	7	Punjab (PK)
39	Gujrat Shah Daula	9 Miles			Punjab (PK)
40	Khwaspurah	11 Miles			Punjab (PK)
41	Kharian	12 Miles			Punjab (PK)
42	Aurangabad	10 Miles			Punjab (PK)
43	Jhelum	2 Miles			Punjab (PK)
44	Rohtas	12 Miles			Punjab (PK)
44A	Rajopindi		32°58'58.52"N, 73°33'45.65"E	6.6	Punjab (PK)
45	Kasran Sarai	6 Kos	Place Not Identified		Punjab (PK)
46	Sarai Jalal	5 Kos	Place Not Identified		Punjab (PK)
47	Dukka Sarai	6 Kos	Place Not Identified		Punjab (PK)
48	Sara Kala Khan	6 Kos	Place Not Identified		Punjab (PK)
49	Pakka Sarai	8 Kos	33°18'34.67"N, 73°20'31.66"E	3.8	Punjab (PK)
49A	Rawat		33°29'53.28"N, 73°11'39.33"E	2.7	Islamabad
50	Rawalpindi	4 Kos			Punjab (PK)
51	Kharpura Sarai / Kharbuza	4 Kos	33°40'54.88"N, 72°54'21.65"E	3.7	Islamabad
52	Hasan Abdal	7 Kos			Punjab (PK)
53	Sarai Meeran	8 Kos	Place Not Identified		Punjab (PK)
54	Sarai Dangran	7 Kos	Place Not Identified		Punjab (PK)
55	Shahsabad	8 Kos			Punjab (PK)
56	Attock (Begum Ki Sarai)	10 Kos	33°53'41.89"N, 72°14'18.63"E	2.3	Punjab (PK)
57	Khairabad	3 Miles			Pakhtunkhwa
58	Akorah Khattak	8 Miles			Pakhtunkhwa
59	Shahabad	20 Miles	Place Not Identified		Pakhtunkhwa
60	Peshawar	16 Miles	34° 0'30.89"N, 71°34'51.34"E	6.5	Pakhtunkhwa
61	Jamrud	11 Miles			Pakhtunkhwa
62	Ali Masjid	10 Miles			Pakhtunkhwa
63	Fort of Lal Bag		Place Not Identified
64	Dakka	12 Miles			Afghanistan
65	Isuali	13 Miles	Place Not Identified		Afghanistan
66	Jalalabad	30 Miles			Afghanistan
67	Charbagh	10 Miles			Afghanistan
68	Fatahabad	8 Miles	Place Not Identified		Afghanistan
69	Nimlah Bagh	10 Miles	34°17'47.05"N, 70° 6'4.11"E	33.7	Afghanistan
70	Gandamak	8 Miles			Afghanistan
71	Surkhab	8 Miles	Place Not Identified		Afghanistan
72	Jagdalak	16 Miles			Afghanistan
73	Barikab	17 Miles	Place Not Identified		Afghanistan
74	Buthak	16 Miles	Place Not Identified		Afghanistan
75	Kabul	12 Miles			Afghanistan

The 23 sarais I could find on Google Earth are today in different conditions. Some are in a very good state of preservation, some are in bad shape, and some have almost totally disappeared. But at least their location and general shape can be guessed. 

01. Badli ki Srai (28°43'8.76"N, 77°10'3.53"E)

I could not find much about the history of this sarai, except that a crucial battle was fought here between the rebel soldiers of the East India Company and the government forces on June 8, 1857. Perhaps due to the damage it suffered during the battle, just two main gates survive. Today it is well within the sprawling city of Delhi.

 

Photo: https://so.city/delhi/article/used-as-a-shelter-for-sepoys-of-the-1857-revolt-heres-all-about-badli-ki-sarai

10. Sarai at Thanesar (29°58'38.96"N, 76°49'41.71"E)

Could find no information on the net. Even I cannot confirm the exact location. But the google earth imagery clearly shows it to be a sarai. ٰIts shape, size and location indicate it's a sarai. Thanesar is a historic city and we can see many monuments in and around the city. Nearby Kurukshetra is a  legendary city. 

12A.  Sarai Mughal (30°26'7.17"N, 76°41'9.66"E)

According to the website Incredible India, the sarai was built during the reign of Sher Shah Suri and was one of his most ambitious projects. 

Photo: Punjabi Network

14. Aam Khas Bagh Sarai - Sirhind (30°38'14.36"N, 76°23'50.24"E)

Sirhind was a very important city in the Mughal Empire and still has many splendid buildings, palaces, tombs, and gardens. One of them is Sarai Aam Khas, which, according to an article on Wikipedia, was first constructed during the rule of Akbar, with additions later made by Emperor Jahangir. It was an important station between Lahore and Delhi and was frequently used by royalty, who enjoyed their stay at the royal section of the sarai, called Khas (special).

Photo: Wikipedia

16. Sarai Lashkari Khan (30°45'18.13"N, 76° 5'24.12"E)

According to an article on Wikipedia, Emperor Aurangzeb's general Lashkari Khan built this sarai in 1667 AD.

Photo: https://twitter.com/irfhabib/status/424698474307657728

16A. Mughal Sarai, Doraha (30°47'53.41"N, 76° 1'18.22"E)

The name suggests that this great fort like sarai was built during the Mughal period. However, I could not find more details. 

Photo: Wikipedia

18. Phillaur (31° 0'41.83"N, 75°47'23.47"E)

A sarai was built here during the time of Emperor Shah Jehan and in 1809, Maharaja Ranjit Singh rebuilt it as a military fort. 

Photo: Wikipedia

19. Sarai Nurmahal (31° 5'33.38"N, 75°35'40.17"E)

According to an article in Wikipedia, the sarai was constructed on the order of Queen Noor Jahan, the wife of the Emperor Jahangir. It was constructed under the supervision of the governor of Doab, Zakariya Khan, in 1618.

    Photo: Wikipedia

21. Dakhani Sarai (31°10'18.75"N, 75°24'41.67"E)

This sarai too was built during the Mughal period in the 17th century. Probably by Ali Mardan Khan.

 

Photo: https://www.facebook.com/DakhniSarai/

23. Sultanpur Lodhi (31°12'50.38"N, 75°11'25.87"E)

Sultanpur Lodhi was an important administrative and commercial centre during the Lodhi Period. Baba Guru Nanak ji also stayed here for some time during the early part of his wife. His elder sister Bebe Nanki settled here after her marriage. Her husband found a job for Guru ji in the administration. That's why the city has many historic gurdwaras. 

We can guess that a sarai must be there in the Lodhi period. But not much detail could be found. 

Photo: https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/archive/punjab/govt-to-preserve-historic-qila-sarai-858187

27. Sarai Amanat Khan (31°30'39.07"N, 74°41'34.93"E)

Amanat Khan was a famous calligrapher who inscribed Ayats on the famous Taj Mahal in Agra. He was an important figure in the court of Emperor Shah Jahan.

 

Photo: https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fpunjabtourism.punjab.gov.in%2Fimages1%2Famanat-01.jpg&tbnid=gGaSPaxuipc1oM&vet=12ahUKEwjtvYOaotb_AhVBpycCHWuUB5cQMygAegUIARC8AQ..i&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fpunjabtourism.punjab.gov.in%2Fsarai-amanat-khan.php&docid=qKr4c9ZhwjxFhM&w=4061&h=2645&q=sarai%20amanat%20khan&ved=2ahUKEwjtvYOaotb_AhVBpycCHWuUB5cQMygAegUIARC8AQ#imgrc=gGaSPaxuipc1oM&imgdii=vdoJ54Ufb3FfUM

31. Akbari Sarai (31°37'21.30"N, 74°17'59.26"E)

The construction of the sarai started during the reign of Sher Shah Suri but was completed during the reign of Emperor Akbar. Subsequently, some additions were also made. 

Photo: Wikipedia

34. Eminabad (32° 2'10.51"N, 74°15'41.93"E)

Eminabad is a historic city and was an important city even before the Mughal period. There is a Lodhi period mosque and some other structures dating back to that period. Near that mosque, a square-shaped enclosure can be seen. Only fragments of the walls remain. During my visits to Eminabad, I did not pay much attention. But now I think that given the location and shape of the area on Google Maps, it suggests that probably this was the location of a srai. 

37. Kot Khizri / Nizamabad (32°22'53.46"N, 74° 7'46.83"E)

The location, size and shape of this ground suggest that it is probable that a sarai existed at this place. Just a rough guess. I have not visited the place. 

38. Wazirabad (32°27'0.39"N, 74° 6'54.03"E)

I visited a place known as Suman Burj in Wazirabad in 2009. Once it was used as the residence of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Even today there are many beautiful old havelis inside this fortress. Its size and shape, suggest that once in all probability it was a sarai. Anyway, I cannot confirm it.

 Photo: By the writer. (Suman Burj) 

44A. Rajopindi (32°58'58.52"N, 73°33'45.65"E)

Sources suggest the existence of a sarai at Rohtas. Less than two kilometers north west of the famous fort exists this village. Its shape, a perfect square, is proof enough that once it was a sarai. I am not sure but perhaps some remnants of the old structure still exist.   

49. Sarai Pakka (33°18'34.67"N, 73°20'31.66"E)

This sarai is in a dilapidated state and perhaps will not survive for long. It is believed that it was built during the reign of Sher Shah Suri or the early Mughal period. Most of the sarai, including walls on two sides have completely disappeared. It is in urgent need of repair. Many houses exist inside the sarai and are fast encroaching upon the remaining structures. 

Photo: By the writer (http://pakgeotagging.blogspot.com/2023/05/163-serai-pakka-khanpur-tehsil-gujar.html)

49A. Rawat (33°29'53.28"N, 73°11'39.33"E)

Rawat or Rabat itself means a strong point or a halting place. This is a very old building, built during the pre-Mughal period by the Gakhar chiefs of this area. Fortunately, the structure is taken care of to some extent. 

Photo: By the writer (http://pakgeotagging.blogspot.com/2017/01/rawat-fort.html)

51. Sarai Kharbuza (33°40'54.88"N, 72°54'21.65"E) 

Just at the outskirts of Islamabad, this sarai exists. It has almost 95 percent disappeared and been encroached upon bu the increasing urbanization. But at least some traces are still visible, which show its long-gone splendour and prove its existence. The history of its construction is not known.

 

Photo: By the writer (http://pakgeotagging.blogspot.com/2023/06/166-sarai-kharuza-islamabad.html)

56. Begum Ki Sarai (33°53'41.89"N, 72°14'18.63"E)

This sarai is located near the famous Attock Fort. The fort itself is under the control of the army. Due to its proximity to the fort, it is off-limits to civilians. That's why no pictures are available. 

60. Gor Khatri, Peshawar (34° 0'30.89"N, 71°34'51.34"E)

Gor Khatri is a famous archaeological / historic site in Peshawar. A sarai was built at this place during the Mughal period. In ancient times it was an important pilgrimage site for the Buddhists and the Hindus.

Photo: https://www.youlinmagazine.com/article/within-the-walls-of-gor-khatri/MTY4Ng==

69. Nimlah Bagha (Mimla / Mimli Bagh) - (34°17'47.05"N, 70° 6'4.11"E)

It is a huge garden in eastern Afghanistan. Probably it also served as a halting place for armies and caravans. 

As we have seen above, some of these sarais are still in good condition, but many are in a dilapidated state. Their historic importance and architectural beauty demand their preservation. So that future generations can also enjoy the beauty of these historic structures. 

Above is a picture of a section of the original Grand Trunk Road in Margalla Pass, near Islamabad. 

(http://pakgeotagging.blogspot.com/2014/06/monument-of-john-nicholson-gt-road-of.html)


We’re marchin’ on relief over Inija’s sunny plains,
A little front o’ Christmas-time an’ just be’ind the Rains;
Ho! get away you bullock-man, you’ve ‘eard the bugle blowed,
There’s a regiment a-comin’ down the Grand Trunk Road;

Rudyard Kipling

Tariq Amir

June 23, 2023.

Islamabad