166. Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad.

Islamabad is the newest city in Pakistan, but the history of this region is very old. Once it was part of the great Gandhara civilization, and some ruins dating back to that period are still found in the Margalla Hills. Many more historic buildings from later periods also exist in different parts of the capital territory. The most prominent among them is the Pharwala Fort.

Unfortunately, conserving this rich historical and cultural heritage is nowhere on the priority list of the Capital Development Authority, which is responsible for the development of the capital. As a result, much of this heritage has already disappeared or is close to extinction. One such monument is Sarai Kharbuza. It is، or rather, was، located at 33°40'54.83"N, 72°54'21.21"E. Most of its walls and structures, including the gates, have completely vanished, swallowed up by the hunger for land of the rapidly rising population and uncontrolled construction. Now, only a small portion of the southwestern corner remains, marking the location of what was once a magnificent sarai.

I visited the site on the 14th of May, 2023. Even the little portion that has survived is not easily accessible, as houses now block the way. I knocked at the door of one house, but no male member was at home. Another person I met in the street was unwilling to cooperate. Later, someone told me that locals are wary of strangers showing interest in the sarai. The reason is simple: they are engaged in a dispute with government authorities over ownership of the land and are resisting preservation efforts. Determined to erase the last traces of the sarai, they will most likely succeed before long. That same person also advised me not to push my luck, warning that unpleasant situations could arise. That was enough for me to step back.

A sarai, as most of us know, was a halting place constructed along major highways. Caravans and travellers were provided with accommodation, food, water, and fodder for their animals. Most importantly, they enjoyed protection from dangerous elements. All these facilities were provided free of cost, at least during stable governments and more prosperous times.

The southwestern corner of the Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad. (14.05.2023.)

So, when it was built? Perhaps there is no record of its complete history. However, Emperor Jahangir mentions it in his biography Tuzk-e-Jahangiri. 

On Monday 10th Muharram 1016/AD 1605, I encamped at Sarai Kharbooza. The Ghakkar (Gakhar) in former days erected one domed structure here in which they used to collect toll from travelers. As the dome is shaped like a melon, it is called Kharbooza. On this march, is the pass called Marigalla.

So it can be safely assumed that it was built well before the times of the Mughals, probably centuries before, as some sources claim. However, repairs and modifications from time to time are quite possible. Anyway, at the present time, just a fraction of this huge structure is remaining. 

The southwestern corner of the Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad. (14.05.2023.)

The southwestern corner of the Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad. (14.05.2023.)

Just a small section of the big boundary wall is remaining. (14.05.2023.)

ٓA lane leading to the inner parts of the sarai, but is blocked. (14.05.2023.)

An old structure inside the sarai area. (14.05.2023.)

The countryside near Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad. (14.05.2023.)

While browsing the net in search of some information about this serai, I found an informative article on this subject written by Dr Nadeem Omar Tarar. It is worth reading if you are interested in finding something more about the Serai.

Cultural Heritage on the Cusp of Silk Roads: Caravanserai Kharbooza in Islamabad

The open to the sky courtyard of Sarai Kharbooza used as a marketplace was surrounded by hundreds of chambers, stalls and storage bays to accommodate travelers along with their servants, animals, and merchandise. There were 26 chambers in the inner walls on the north and south, and 24 chambers on the east and west. Sarai Kharbooza has been constructed in small brick masonry and plastered in lime surkhi. There is a mosque in the north-western corner of the inner courtyard of the Sarai, which has been renovated, and plastered with cement mortar. The mehrab has been left untouched, which reveals the floral designs in blue, orange and green colors. A unique feature of the mosque is a wood-fired hot-water storage tank with a domed top, which was used for ablution and bathing. There are also traces of a bath house which was connected through large arched underground chamber with the well.

https://www.hilal.gov.pk/eng-article/detail/MjMwMg==.html

Though it is already too late to conserve this sarai or any significant part of it. But it is still possible to save a small section of the wall, a few rooms and one bastion at the southwestern corner. That will at least be proof of its existence and reference points for historians and archaeologists.

Tariq Amir

June 15, 2023.

Islamabad

For a related post, visit:

163. Serai Pakka, Khanpur, tehsil Gujar Khan!