Gujranwala
is a big but comparatively a new city. Though settlements existed in this area for long
time, but the foundations of the modern city were laid down in 1758, when
Charat Singh constructed a small mud fort at Sirai Kambohaan.
He
was sardar of Sukerchakia Misl and grandfather of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. 18th
century was a period of turmoil in Punjab. Foreign invasions by Nadir Shah and
then Ahmad Shah Abdali, ravaged the whole region from Indus to Jamuna and the
authority of Mughals totally collapsed by 1750s. Sikhs were already active and
made full use of this anarchy and in 1760s quickly emerged as the supreme force
in Punjab. Especially the central Punjab fell to their control. Even Lahore was
captured by Sikhs on 16th May, 1764. Then except for a few months in
1767 and later for a few days in 1797, it remained in control of Bhangi Misl.
Misls were twelve independently operating Sikh groups, under different
warlords, active in different regions of Punjab. One of them was Sukherchakia
Misl, based at Gujranwala and controlling surrounding areas, and constantly at
war with neighbouring Muslim chiefs like Chatthas etc and also with other Sikh or Hindu chiefs. In these circumstances
Ranjit Singh was born on 13th November, 1780 and at the death of his
father Mahan Singh in April, 1790, he though just a boy, became the sardar of
his Misl. His rise was quick and by 1799 he occupied Lahore and by 1809 wrested
the control of all the areas west of Sutlej from other Sikh Misls. By a treaty
in the same year River Sutlej was agreed upon as the border between the British
India and his state. So he changed his focus to other directions and by the
time he died in 1839, the whole of present day Pakistani Punjab (except
Bahawalpur State), most of KP and Kashmir was conquered by him.
Sikhs
rightly take a great pride in the rise of Ranjit Singh, being the greatest
ruler they ever produced. Though, Muslims don’t have many fond memories of the
Sikh Rule. But, one thing is certain that he brought a certain degree of
stability to Punjab and ended the anarchy and depredations of Sikh Misls and Afghans and
was tolerant towards other religions as well. Because of the strong state that he created due to his immense talents and energy, he is often called Sher-e-Punjab or the Lion of Punjab.
In
search of some traces of the family of Ranjit Singh I reached Gujranwala on
16.03.2011. Our first destination was Sheranwala Bagh, the Garden of Lions. Ruins of a house can
still be seen there. At that time I thought these ruins to be the residence and
birthplace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. But
later on found that to be incorrect. Actually a big haveli exists inside the
old city, which is probably the residence of his family. In the bagh we talked
to some idle sitting old gentlemen and one of them pretended to be the authority
on the affairs related to Ranjit Singh, but even he did not mention this haveli, which was just half a kilometer away. The ruins in Sheranwala Bagh are located at 32° 09' 21.17" N, 74° 11' 18.81" E.
_resize.jpg)
A general view of the Sheranwala Bagh. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
Old ruins, with a mosque in the background. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
A fountain in the garden. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
A view of the ruins in Sheranwala Bagh. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
View from inside. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
View from the northern side. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
Fast decaying building. (16.03.2011)
Just
outside the Sheranwala bagh near the north eastern corner and visible from the
garden itself, is the Samadhi of Mahan Singh (died 1790), father of Ranjit Singh. It
is located at 32° 09' 23.21" N, 74° 11' 19.67" E. The access is through a lane on the
backside of shops on main GT road. When I visited this place, it was close and
the owner could not be found. It was being used as a store. Needless to say
that the building though still strong, is in urgent need of repair. And more
important is to clear the encroachments on all sides. Yes, I know it is a
wishful thinking. This is how we treat historical monuments.
View of the samadhi of Mahan Singh, father of Ranjit Singh from the garden. (16.03.2011)
View from the lane. (16.03.2011)
Another view from the lane. (16.03.2011)
But
the real discovery came afterwards, when I found the Samadhi of Charat Singh, grand father of Ranjit Singh, died 1774. This is not a well known place and few people know about its existence.
Because a police station exists in its premises, known as thana Sabzi Mandi. It
is also on the GT road,nearly a kilometer south of Sheranwala Bagh, on the main GT Road. My cousin Sahibzada
Shah Sultan had to make a few calls here and there, before we were allowed inside.
There behind the main gate, in the courtyard stands the beautiful building of
the Samadhi. Right in the Samadhi, the thanedar sahib was sitting, on a table
and chair. He looked a little uneasy and
suspicious, because we wanted to take the photographs of the building and rooms
around the courtyard. But thankfully he allowed me to shoot. I quickly took some photographs and literally ran away after thanking from thanedar sahib to the sipahi on the gate. It is located at
32° 08' 57.06" N, 74° 11' 24.60" E.
I always welcome comments on my blog and especially cherish those which provide some additional information or suggest some correction. On 21 August, 2016 Mr Amardeep Singh commented on the post and informed me that the building I mentioned as Samadhi of Charat Singh, actually is a Jain Mandir. My source of information was Sikhipedia and a book on Sikh heritage in Pakistan, written by Bobby Singh Deol.
Mr Amardeep Singh gave the reference of a book on Jain religion. This book clearly shows that the aforementioned building is a Jain Mandir built in memory of a great Jain scholar Shri Atmaramji.
A picture of this building is also given in the above mentioned book. Which leaves no room for any doubt that this was a Jain Mandir, dedicated to Shri Atmaramji.
I always welcome comments on my blog and especially cherish those which provide some additional information or suggest some correction. On 21 August, 2016 Mr Amardeep Singh commented on the post and informed me that the building I mentioned as Samadhi of Charat Singh, actually is a Jain Mandir. My source of information was Sikhipedia and a book on Sikh heritage in Pakistan, written by Bobby Singh Deol.
Mr Amardeep Singh gave the reference of a book on Jain religion. This book clearly shows that the aforementioned building is a Jain Mandir built in memory of a great Jain scholar Shri Atmaramji.
A short
account of the life of Shrimat Vijayanan
& Suri-popularly known as Shri
Atmaramji
Twenty
two years have gone by since the death of Shri Vijayanandsuri, the well-known Jain
Sadhu of the Swetainber sect. He was born in the village of Lahara, District Ferozpur
(Punjab) on the first of Chaitra Shukla in Yikram year 1893. He wras a Brahma Kshattriya
by casle. His father's name was Ganeshchandra and mother's, Rupdevi. He lost his
father in early childhood and was brought up by his mother. He was given in charge
of Seth Jodhmal of Jira (Punjab) for education in Yikram year 1903.
He
studied Hindi and Arithmetic. At times he used to visit Sthanakvasi Sadhus of the
place and began to study about religion. In Vikrama 1910 he was initiated as a Sthanakvasi
Sadhu. His intellect was keen : he used to commit to memory 100 verses a day. He
had learnt the Shastras from the Sthanakvasi Sadhus but he began to entertain doubts
as regards the interpretation as given by them. Fortunately he began to study Sanskrit
Grammar and other philosophical and logical works with a Pandit.
He
fearlessly gave up the Sthanakvasi doctrine and came to Ahmedabad in V. year
1932. He was initiated as a Swetamber Sadhu by Buddhivijayji, a Jain Sadhu of the
place. In the V. year 1943, he went to Palitana, Kathiawar, and stayed there for
four months during the rainy season. Here he was given the title of 1 Acharya' by
the Sangha ; and from that time he was called by the name of Shri Vijayanandsuri.
Then
he travelled on foot from Gujerat to the Punjab. During the travel he brought to
light the hidden Jain Literature. The Jain Bhandars o£ different places of Rajputana
were examined by him. He got many old important manuscripts fairly copied out.
For
many years he lived in the Punjab. His fame spread through the different parts
of the country. Many people of other sects came and discussed with him on matters
of religion. He answered their arguments in a mild, courteous and dispassionate
manner. His tone was inspiring, and the hearers were at times astonished at his
pecular tact of answering the questions. His ideas were liberal. He was serene and
calm of disposition.
Many
questions on Jainism were put to him by Dr. A. F. Rudolf Hoernele through Maganlal
Dalpatram in the Vikram year 1945. Dr Hoernele was greatly satisfied with the answers.
He wrote to Maganlal in 1888 " Please convey to the latter (Muni Maharaj) the
expression of my thanks for the great trouble he has taken to reply so promptly
and so fully to my questions. His answers were satisfactory." In the introduction
of the Upasakdasanga, which Dr. Hornele has edited and translated he writes "
For some o£ this information I am indebted to Muni Maharaj Atmaramji, Anandvijayji,
the wellknown and highly respected Sadhu of the Jain Community throughout India
and author of (among others) two very useful works in Hindi."
In
Vikram year 1949, he received an invitation from Chicago to attend 'the World's
Parliament of Religions. On account of religious and personal restrictions he could
not go, but he sent his representative, Mr. Virchand Raghavji Gandhi, B. A. to Chicago
to represent Jainism at the Parliament.
He
was the author of a number of works in Hindi. The important works are as follows:—
Tatwanirnaya
Prasad, Jaina Tatwadarsha, Agnantimir-bhasker, Sainayktwa Shalyodhar, and Chicago-Prasnottar.
Many
Jain temples were built in the Punjab by his teaching. About 15000 persons were
converted to Jainism by his strenuous efforts. Many Pathshalas and Libraries were
established by him in the districts of the Punjab and in different other parts of
the country.
Spending
his life in doing good deeds he passed away from this world in Vikram year 1953,
Jyesta Shukla 13, in Gujranwala (Punjab).
The
event of his death was mysterious. At midnight he got up from bed and sat in the
posture of Padmasana. He called his pupils before him and said to them i Oh, Now
I go, Arhan!
Lives of great men all remind us We can make our lives sublime, And departing leave behind us Foot prints on the sands of time.
(Longfellow)
A picture of this building is also given in the above mentioned book. Which leaves no room for any doubt that this was a Jain Mandir, dedicated to Shri Atmaramji.
The year written is Vikrama 1953, corresponds to 1896 AD.
Another gentleman, Mr Ravinder Jain, also commented, rather bitterly, about the wrong information. He gave the date of completion of this Mandir as 1904. All I can say is that the mistake was unintentional and did not mean to disrespect to any religion. I also support the idea of this building be preserved and Jains from India or other countries should be allowed to come, visit and pray in this holy place. Currently this building is being used as a police station. Which is below the dignity of this holy place, sacred to so many people.
_resize.jpg)
Jain Mandir, decicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
Jain Mandir, decicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
Jain Mandir, decicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
Jain Mandir, decicated to Shri Atmaramji. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
Entrance of the thana (Police Station) from the from GT road. (16.03.2011)
Now question is then where is the Smadhi of Charat Singh? Here too, Mr Amerdeep has given a clue. He has given the reference of a book Umdat Ut Tawarikh and provided a link also to read this book. This books is official chronicles of the Maharaja. The link is given below:
http://www.panjabdigilib.org/webuser/searches/displayPageContent.jsp?ID=2892&page=1&CategoryID=1&Searched=W3GX
On the pages 594 and 595, there is an account of Maharaja Ranjit Singh's journey from Qila Sobha Singh to Zafrwal, district Narowal. It is mentioned on page 595 that on 5 October, 1838, Maharaja Ranjit Singh reached the village of Jalal and visited the Smadhi of Charat Singh his grandfather. However, I could not locate this village. Other nearby villages mentioned are Halla, Chakli and Karala, these too I could not find. I hope some reader will help in locating these villages.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Near the Sheranwala Bagh, just across the GT road a big gurdwara building is also seen. I was told that now it is occupied by dozens of refugee families and due to shortage of time could not explore it properly.
_resize.jpg)
A Sikh gurdwara complex. (16.03.2011)
_resize.jpg)
Gurdwara Damdama Baba Sahib Singh Ji Bedi. (16.03.2011)
While writing this blog, I am thinking that with a little effort, Gujranwala city can be turned into a major tourist destination for the Sikhs from all around the world. Besides the above mentioned landmarks, there is a big haveli in the old city and also a beautiful rest house of Ranjit Singh. If we could preserve these buildings and advertise them properly, we can bring thousands of tourists every month. I am sure Sikhs themselves will be happy to contribute in this regard. Though Dilli is far away, but Amritsar is just 120 kms away!
I shall appreciate your comments on the above post. Similarly I most welcome your suggestions to improve it or any more information on this subject, which I shall use with all due credit.
Tariq Amir
June 01, 2014.
Doha - Qatar
+974 - 552 552 36
As I mentioned above that during my last visit to Gujranwala in March, 2011, I could not find the birthplace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. So it was on my agenda to visit this city again and find the haveli of Ranjit Singh. The opportunity came after four years and during my last vacation, I was again in Gujranwala on August 12, 2015. This time I knew the exact location of the haveli and after passing through the narrow and crowded streets of the old town found myself in front of the haveli. Straight streets of the old town show the good planning of the Sikh government. For reference you may ask the way to old Sabzi Mandi (vegetable market).
The whole area is a crowded place and cars cannot enter in most of the streets. The scene in front of the haveli is even more chaotic as once empty ground is occupied by makeshift shops. Even the facade of the building is partially hidden behind newly constructed shops. A narrow stairs way, about ten steps in number, on the left side, lead to the main entrance of the building.
Facade of the haveli of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. (12.08.2015.)
Main entrance of the haveli of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. (12.08.2015.)
Another view of the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
The main entrance opens in a big hall. One can reach the courtyard by passing through this hall. The roof as we can see has been repaired in near past. Instead of old wooden roof as it must have been in the original condition, it is made of girders and slabs of cement/concrete.
A hall behind the main entrance. (12.08.2015.)
The courtyard is a considerably large area, surrounded by verandahs and large rooms. The whole haveli it seems was constructed on an elevated ground, almost 8 feet higher than the ground in front of the facade.
A view of the courtyard of the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
Inner view of haveli towards main entrance. (12.08.2015.)
The plaque reads: (12.08.2015.)
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Born 2nd November, 1780.
جائے
ولادت مہاراجہ رنجیت سنگھ صاحب بہادر
تاریخ
ولادت 2 نومبر 1780ء
Rooms in the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
Rooms in the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
Arches in the courtyard. (12.08.2015.)
Verandah in the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
A Hindu temple, as seen from the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
A view from the above. (12.08.2015.)
An old house adjacent to the haveli. (12.08.2015.)
Another view of the verandahs. (12.08.2015.)
Chaos in front of the haveli of Mahraja Ranjit Singh. (12.08.2015.)
The haveli, considering our damn care attitude towards historic monuments, is not in a very bad condition. Though it has lost much of its beauty. The original roofs have already been replaced by the current owner. However, it can still be protected and restored to its original glory and beauty. But who will do it and more important question is why should we restore the haveli of a Sikh despot? And sorry I would not repeat nonsense about the importance of historic monuments, culture, heritage, tourism blah blah. We have more important things to do.
Right at the moment when I was feeling satisfied that I have nearly covered all the Sikh monuments related to Maharaja in Gujranwala, I remembered that I forgot to visit the haveli of Hari Singh Nalwa, the most famous general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. And perhaps there is one more building related to Ranjit Singh, probably a rest house. In addition to that another miss was not visiting the Sheranwala bagh, where the baradari has been very beautifully restored. So it means I shall have to visit Gujranwala again.
Tariq Amir
September 23, 2015.
Doha - Qatar
+974 - 552 552 36
Updated: 24.08.2016.
View Gujranwala: Birthplace of Mahraja Ranjit Singh in a larger map
No comments:
Post a Comment