160. Temple of Kalyan Das Suri, Rawalpindi.

Before independence and the partition of the country in 1947, Hindus formed nearly one-third of the population of Rawalpindi city. They were an influential community and constructed many beautiful houses, several of which still survive today. These buildings remind us of the multi-religious character of the city in the past, as well as the rich cultural and architectural heritage of the pre-partition era.

Along with their houses, they also built numerous temples. One of the most prominent is the famous Kalyan Das Temple in Kohati Bazar, located at 33°37'19.31"N, 73°03'47.79"E. It is a majestic structure and a masterpiece of Hindu temple architecture.

At present, the temple houses a special school for visually impaired children, known as Government Qandeel Secondary School. The headmaster of the school, a very amiable gentleman, welcomed me warmly. However, due to official regulations, he could not permit me to take photographs and advised me to seek formal permission from the concerned department, which I managed to obtain a couple of days later.

The temple building stands in the middle of a spacious compound and immediately captures the eye with its grandeur. Its lofty spires rise high above, giving it a majestic presence. Surrounding the temple is a modern structure that now serves as classrooms for the students.

While I sat in the headmaster’s office waiting for the formalities to be completed, I had the chance to interact with some teachers and students. The experience was truly heartwarming. Their courage, discipline, and cheerful spirit left a deep impression on me. At this point, the headmaster politely requested that I avoid taking pictures from inside the building or too close to the temple. I soon understood the reason: repair and renovation work was in progress, and construction material blocked much of the view. I therefore refrained from close-up shots.

Nevertheless, pictures available online show the temple’s inner walls adorned with beautiful paintings, a glimpse of the splendour that still survives within this remarkable monument.

Temple of Kalyan Das Suri, Rawalpindi. (01.02.2022.)

According to an article published in the Tribune on March 25, 2022, written by Imran Ashgar, the foundations of the temple were laid in 1850 and it was completed in 1880. It carried great importance for the Hindu community of the city. It was a big complex and served the needs of worshippers and pilgrims from other areas. 

The temple is located in the middle of the four-sided school building. (01.02.2022.)

The temple has three lofty shikaras. (01.02.2022.)

A view from the first floor. (01.02.2022.)

The temple is simply a magnificent building.  (01.02.2022.)

The spires are so high that they were visible from throughout the city. (01.02.2022.)

The writer is on the roof of the first floor of the school building. (01.02.2022.)

The main spiral, surrounded by four smaller spirals, gives a fascinating view of the temple. It is definitely one of the oldest structures in the city, and if properly taken care of, can survive for a long time. The school for children is indeed doing a great service to the community but can be relocated to another better and bigger building. But heritage and history cannot be recreated or relocated. I strongly feel that this building should be preserved as a part of our history and heritage and should be promoted as a tourist attraction in the city. 

Tariq Amir

June 30, 2022.

Doha - Qatar. 

159. Lockhart Memorial, Rawalpindi.

Rawalpindi was an important military station during the British Raj, due to its proximity to the north-western frontier and as the headquarters of the Northern Command of the British Indian Army. After the defeat of the Khalsa Raj in 1849, this area came under British rule. Following independence, the city was made the General Headquarters of the Pakistan Army. Hence, it is also known as the garrison city.

Because of its long association with the military, Rawalpindi has many installations, buildings, and monuments related to the armed forces. One of them is the Lockhart Memorial in Roomi Park, in the Saddar area. It was built in memory of General Sir William Stephen Alexander Lockhart, GCB, KCSI, a British general in the British Indian Army. He was born in Scotland in 1841 and died in Calcutta in 1900. During his career, he served with distinction and also held the position of Commander-in-Chief of the Punjab Command. In 1898, he was appointed Commander-in-Chief of the British Indian Army.

After his death in 1900, his colleagues and admirers erected a memorial in his honour at Roomi Park in Rawalpindi. The memorial is in the form of an obelisk, a tall, four-sided, narrow, tapering monument that ends in a pyramid-like shape. The obelisk was an invention of the ancient Egyptians, who built many of them across their country. In Pakistan, as far as I know, there are at least three obelisks: at Multan, Margalla Pass, and this one in Rawalpindi. The location of this obelisk is 33°35'57.31"N, 73°02'36.11"E.

Lockhart Memorial, Roomi Park, Rawalpindi. (28.01.2022.)

Photo by Wikipedia. (28.01.2022)

Another view of the memorial. (28.01.2022.)

GENERAL SIR WILLIAM STEPHEN ALEXANDER LOCKHAR GCB, KSCI

WHO DIED IN CALCUTTA 18TH MARCH 1900

WHEN COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF IN INDIA

ERECTED TO HIS MEMROY

BY THE ARMY IN INDIA AND MANY FRIENDS, 1903.

The Lockhart memorial in Roomi Park, Rawalpindi. (28.01.2022)

The memorial is located in a park, covering an area of approximately 3 acres. It is a beautiful and popular recreational place in Rawalpindi.

It is an important historic memorial, and its significance also lies in the obelisk being one of just three obelisks in Pakistan. The biggest of all three is, however, the Nicholson Monument at Margalla Pass. But few people know about its existence and fewer still give it any attention. Unfortunately, some plaques on the obelisk have been lost or removed. Otherwise, more valuable information would have been available. 

Tariq Amir 

June 26, 2022.

Doha - Qatar

158. Forgotten Gurdwaras of Rawalpindi City

Before 1947, Hindus and Sikhs made up a large proportion of Rawalpindi’s population and owned much of the property in the city. Their presence is still reflected in the grand havelis, elegant houses, and bustling bazaars that survive from that era. Earlier this year, I made several visits to the old quarters of Rawalpindi and was amazed to discover true masterpieces of architecture. While Lahore is celebrated for its walled city, the areas around Shah Chan Chiragh in Rawalpindi also contain hundreds of houses that beautifully showcase our rich architectural heritage. I believe that an organization similar to the Walled City of Lahore Authority should be established here as well, to preserve and promote this treasure.

During my tours, I was especially surprised by the large number of Hindu temples tucked away in narrow lanes, hidden behind encroachments and crowded houses. That subject, however, deserves a separate post. In this article, we will focus on a few gurdwaras that are little known today and almost forgotten by time. But before we proceed, I would like to share a table to give you a sense of the demographics of Rawalpindi city and its surrounding areas before 1947. The figures are taken from the official census report of 1941.

Population	Rawalpindi
	Division	District	Tehsil	City
Total	4,700,958	785,231	380,395	185,042
Muslims	4,020,141	628,193	261,720	81,038
%	85.52	80.00	68.80	43.79
Hindus	416,204	82,478	68,389	62,393
%	8.85	10.50	17.98	33.72
Sikhs	234,071	64,127	40,224	32,054
%	4.98	8.17	10.57	17.32
Christians	22,851	4,212	4,095	3,668
%	0.22	0.54	1.08	1.98

The Rawalpindi region was dominated by the Gakkhar tribe for centuries. Their recorded history begins with the arrival of Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni, and under various royal dynasties, they maintained control of this area well into the 18th century. In 1765, however, the Gakkhar chief Mukarrab Khan was defeated by Sardar Gujar Singh of the Bhangi Misl. Soon afterward, the entire region came under Sikh rule. Sikh domination lasted until 1849, when the British annexed Punjab. During this period, Sikhs settled in the area and maintained a significant presence until 1947.

Earlier this year, I visited several gurdwaras in Rawalpindi. Two of them, Gurdwara Singh Sabha and Gurdwara Narankari, and a few other gurdwaras that are lesser known but historically important.

1. Gurdwara Bhai Mani Singh / Damdama Sahib

Bhai Mani Singh was a close companion of Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth and the last Guru of the Sikhs. He was born in 1644 in Multan and died in 1738 in Lahore. He was a great scholar and warrior. He served many gurus and spent his life in the service of the Sikh community. Caught in the political turmoil during the decline of the Mughal Empire, he was martyred by the governor of Lahore, Zakaria Khan in Lahore in 1738.

He is greatly revered by the Sikhs for his services and martyrdom. This huge gurdwara was probably built in his memory during the early decades of the twentieth century. Now dozens of families are residing in this gurdwara complex and seldom allow anyone to enter. Overall, the building is in shambles. It is located at  33°37'0.40"N,  73° 3'17.03"E, at the junction of Jamia Masjid Road and Hamilton Road. 

After I published this article, some friends and readers suggested that the above-mentioned gurdwara is not the gurdwara Bhai Mani Singh. It is actually Gurdwara Damdama Sahib, which is built by the famous Sikh personality of Kallar Syedan Baba Khem Singh Bedi (1830 - 1905). The problem is that the occupants do not let anyone to enter the premises, so no plaque or writing could prove its true identity, even if such writing exists. Anyway, I am sharing this new piece of information with my readers and hope to find some conclusive answer to this question. So far I feel that probably it is Gurdwara Damdama Sahib, built by Baba Khem Singh Bedi. Thank you Mirza Beg sahib and Immi Gul sahib for your guidance and assistance. 

Gurdwara Bhai Mani Singh or Damdama Sahib , Rawalpindi. (25.01.2022.)

Gurdwara Bhai Mani Singh or Damdama Sahib, Rawalpindi. (25.01.2022.)

Gurdwara Bhai Mani Singh or Damdama Sahib, Rawalpindi. (25.01.2022.)

Picture of the gurdwara, provided by Salman Khalid. (2021)

2. Gurdwara Baradari

The area around the shrine of Shah Chan Chiragh is probably the oldest locality of Rawalpindi city. The shrine itself is almost 400 years old. About fifty meters north of the shrine, at 33°37'8.00"N, 73°03'34.45"E, stands a gurdwara. The present building appears to have been constructed in the third or fourth decade of the last century. Today, it is occupied by several families who have divided it into separate sections. Although they allowed us to enter, some of the residents were understandably not very comfortable with our presence.

I am not certain how old this gurdwara originally is, or why it is referred to as a baradari. Perhaps an earlier structure once stood here and was later rebuilt in its present form.

Entrance of the gurdwara Baradari. (25.01.2022.)

ਗੁਰਦਵਾਰਾ ਬਰਾਦਰੀ

Gurdwara Baradari

Gurdwara is divided among many families. (25.01.2022.)

Another view of the entrance from the street. (25.01.2022.)

3. Gurdwara Sri Guru Nanak Satsang

This gurdwara is situated about one kilometer northeast of Shah Chan Chiragh, in a locality still called Kartar Pura. The name suggests that before Partition, it was inhabited largely by Sikhs, or at least had a considerable Sikh population. Fortunately, the date of its construction is recorded as Samvat 1991, which corresponds to 1934 AD. The well-planned streets and the architectural style of the houses in the area also indicate that its origins are relatively recent.

Despite having a fairly precise location for the gurdwara, it was somewhat difficult to find. It is a beautiful building, though it does not resemble a traditional gurdwara in appearance. Further details are provided on the commemorative plaque shown below. The gurdwara is located at 33°37'26.97"N, 73°03'46.93"E.

Facade of the gurdwara Sri Guru Nanak Satsang. (28.01.2022.)

Above is the ground floor of the gurdwara. The entrance is on the left side, the door is covered with a curtain. The plaque is behind the cot, that's why we could not find it earlier, despite coming twice to this small street. We could see it only when I asked the owner about the plaque. 

Another view of the gurdwara. (28.01.2022.)

ਸ੍ਰੀ ਗੁਰੂ ਨਾਨਕ ਸਤਸੰਗ ਕਰਤਾਰ ਪੂਰਾ

ਰਾਵਲਪਿੰਡੀ

ਇਸ ਗੁਰਦਵਾਰੇ ਦਾ ਬੁਨਿਆਦੀ ਪਥਰ 

ਜੇਠ ਸ: ੧੯੯੧ ਮੁਤਾਬਿਕ ੨੦ ਮਈ ਸਨ ੧੯੩੪

ਨੂੰ

ਸ੍ਰੀ ਮਾਨ ਸਰਦਾਰ ਬਹਾਦਰ ਸੋਹਨ ਸਿੰਘ ਜੀ ..................... ਜੀ

ਰਯੀਸੇ ਆਜ਼ਮ ਰਾਵਲਪਿੰਡੀ ਨੇ ਰਖਇਆ

سری گورو نانک ست سنگ کرتار پورہ

راولپنڈی

اس گوردوارے دا بنیادی پتھر

جیٹھ سمت 1991 مطابق 20 مئی سن 1934

نوں

 سری مان سردار بہادر سوہن سنگھ جی ۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔ جی

رئیسِ اعظم راولپنڈی نے رکھیا

Sri Nanak Sat Sang , Kartarpur

Rawalpindi

The foundation stone of this gurdwara was laid on

Jeth Samvat 1991, corresponding to 20 May, 1934.

By Sriman Sardar Bhadar Sohan Singh ji ................... Ji

Raees-e-Azam of Rawalpindi.

The well of the gurdwara is still functioning. (28.01.2022.)

An adjoining house. (28.01.2022.)

Another old house in the street. (28.01.2022.)

The following three pictures were provided by Salman Qamar, who belongs to Gujranwala and has an interest in history and heritage. 

4. Gurdwara Lalkurti

Almost nothing is known about this gurdwara, which is located in Lalkurti, Rawalpindi. As the name suggests, the area was developed by the British Army in the 19th century and, even after independence, remained an important part of the cantonment. The gurdwara is a simple house, unlike traditional gurdwaras, and was probably used by Sikh servicemen in the British Army. A Hindu temple also exists nearby. When I visited, the gurdwara was closed and nobody knew who controlled the property. The temple was also not accessible. The gurdwara is located at 33°34'57.21"N, 73°03'28.42"E.

There is also some confusion about this place. A mark on google maps suggests it is a gurdwara. But as the occupants do not let anyone enter it, so nobody is sure. I shall continue my research on this topic and request my readers to also share any information on this topic.  

A gurdwara in Lalkurti, Rawalpindi. (27.01.2022.)

Shikhara or spire of the temple. (27.01.2022.)

A beautiful old house, in front of the temple. (27.01.2022.)

I have four more gurdwaras in Rawalpindi city on my list. Hopefully, I shall visit them soon and add the information to this article. You are welcome to make your share any useful information about such abandoned gurdwaras and temples. 

Tariq Amir

June 22, 2022.

Islamabad