I hope you have seen my previous posts about some of the most famous sites of the Gandhara Civilization, like Dharmarajika, Mohra Moradu, Pipplan, and Jaulian. Remember, all these sites are on UNESCO's list of world heritage sites and are worth visiting. In this article, I shall take you on a tour of another archaeological and heritage site of Taxila. Its name is as interesting as the place itself: Jinnan Wali Dheri, i.e., the mound of the jinns/demons. It is a well-preserved site, like most of the other Buddhist sites around Taxila.
Jinnan Wali Dheri is located at 33°47'14.7"N, 72°51'48.1"E. It follows the same pattern as other Buddhist sites, consisting of two distinct parts: a big stupa in the west and a monastery in the east. Another similarity is that, like other sites, it too covers an area of about one acre. This must have been the standard size of religious complexes in those days. However, I noted one difference: unlike Mohra Moradu, Jaulian, or most of the other similar sites, it is not located on a hill or elevated surface. Instead, it lies on a lower level compared to the surrounding ground.
Excavations were carried out from 2004 to 2006. A huge stupa was found with dimensions of 10 x 10 meters. The base of the stupa was decorated with plaster images of Buddha. In addition, two smaller votive stupas were also found. Votive stupas were built by people to show their devotion and gratitude, and they are found at all Buddhist sites. In Dharmarajika and Jaulian, you can see dozens of such small stupas.
The main stupa. (25.11.2021.)
One of the two votive stupas. (25.11.2021.)
A view of the main stupa. (25.11.2021.)
The monastery is on the right and the stupa in the left. (25.11.2021.) View of the stupa from the south. (25.11.2021.)
A view of the stupa from north. (25.11.2021.)
Eastern wall of the enclosure of the stupa. (25.11.2021.)
View from the southwest. (25.11.2021.)
The monastery is square in plan and consists of 17 cells. A water tank was discovered in the middle of the monastery. All the constructions were estimated to be done from the 3rd to 5th century AD, the golden period of the Gandhara civilization during the Kushan era.

The entrance of the monastery. (25.11.2021.)
Courtyard of the monastery, with the water pool in the middle. (25.11.2021.)
Rooms of the monastery. (25.11.2021.)
A room with niches in the walls. (25.11.2021.)
View of a room. (25.11.2021.)
Spacious courtyard of the monastery. (25.11.2021.)
On your way to Jinnan Wali Dheri, about 700 meters before reaching there, on the same road, you will find another archaeological site known as Badalpur. This site also consists of a Buddhist stupa and a monastery. However, it has not yet been excavated, so there is not much to see at the moment. Hopefully, when it is excavated and restored, it will also become a major attraction for tourists. The coordinates of this site are 33°46'54.7"N, 72°52'03.8"E.
Jinnan Wali Dheri is a well-maintained site surrounded by beautiful orange orchards, about ten
kilometers from the Taxila Museum. The artifacts excavated from this site, like
statues, coins, etc. are on display in the same museum. So whenever you make a
plan to explore the wonders of the Gandhara Civilizations, do not miss it. A visit to
this place, along with nearby sites like Jaulian, Mohra Muradu, etc. would make
a wonderful day trip.
Tariq Amir
December 17, 2021.
Islamabad
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