Tuesday, 30 January 2018

081 - Jandiala Sher Khan (An Old Baoli & A Mosque)

Jandiala Sher Khan is well known for being the birthplace of the famous Punjabi poet Waris Shah, the writer of the most celebrated love story of this region, Heer Ranjha. He was born here in 1722 and died and was buried here in 1798. The town has a beautiful mausoleum of this poet, who is known as the Shakespeare of the Punjabi language. His mausoleum is is situated in the same town, which I visited on 24.03.2011.

Jandiala Sher Khan is an old town, and during the Mughal period, it was a significant place. During my first visit almost eight years ago, I did not know about the existence of a baoli and an old mosque in the town. The purpose of my second visit was specifically to explore this baoli and the adjacent mosque. I was informed by a local man that the baoli and the adjacent mosque were almost in ruins and had only recently been restored. That was indeed happy news. The baoli is located at 31°49'8.00"N, 73°54'53.01"E, in District Sheikhupura.

A view of the Baoli in Jandiala Sher Khan from the west. (23.07.2017)

A closer view of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

View of the baoli and an old mosque from the south side. (23.07.2017)

View of the baoli from the east. (23.07.2017)

View from the northeast. Entrance to the steps. (23.07.2017)

In front of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Another beautiful view of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

The actual well. Covered with an iron grill. (23.07.2017)

The baoli. (23.07.2017) 

The well. (23.07.2017)

Dome of the baoli from inside. (23.07.2017)

Steps leading to the water level. (23.07.2017)

Steps of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Interior view of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

The water level. (23.07.2017)

The lofty interior of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the interior. (23.07.2017)

Dome from inside. (23.07.2017)

A cupola on the roof. (23.07.2017)

Another cupola. (23.07.2017)

Umair Riaz. (23.07.2017)

View of the well from the roof of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

The mosque from the roof of the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Inscriptions beside the baoli. Including a copy of the original plaque (on the left). 


باولی جنڈ یالہ شیر خان مغلیہ فن تعمیر کا شاہکار

اس باؤلی کی تعمیر 976ھ مطابق 1568ء کو ہوئی۔ باؤلی اس کنویں کو کہتے ہیں، جس میں سطح آب تک سیڑھیاں بنائی گئی ہوں۔ اس باؤلی پر لگا ہوا اصل کتبہ پتھر کی لوح پر سطح پر ابھرے ہوئے سات فارسی اشعار پر مشتمل ہے۔ یہ کتبہ جو اس عمارت کے ماتھے کا جھومر تھا، 1975 میں ڈپٹی کمشنر نے بحکم جنرل غلام جیلانی خان، سابق گورنر پنجاب، اس باؤلی سے الگ کرکے عجائب گھر لاہور ارسال کردیا۔ جو کہ آج بھی اسلامی گیلری عجائب گھر لاہور میں دیکھا جاسکتا ہے۔ اس عمارت کی ترمیم وآرائش جناب شاہد رفیع اللہ خان، وفاقی سیکریٹری آثار قدیمہ حکومت پاکستان نے 2008 میں کروائی۔ گزشتہ 36 سال سے یہ باؤلی بے نام و نشان تھی۔ اس تاریخی ورثہ کی ناگفتہ بہ حالت دیکھتے ہوئے باشعور معززین علاقہ دل گرفتہ تھے۔ چنانچہ انہوں نے اس تاریخی ورثہ کی نشاۃ ثانیہ کا مصمم ارادہ کرلیا اور 2011 میں پہلے پہلے کتبہ کی جگہ نیا کتبہ اصل ہی کی طرح دوبارہ بنوا کرلگوا دیا اوراس کا اردو ترجمہ بھی منسلک کروادیا تاکہ لوگ اس باؤلی کی تاریخی حیثیت سے روشناس ہوسکیں۔ جن حضرات نے تنصیب الواح کا اہتمام کیا ان ک اسمائے گرامی درج کیئے جاتے ہیں:

  •  بدست:                جناب شیر اکبر خان ولد محمود اکبر خان  (ایم این اے)                   آل شیر خان
  • زیر سرپرستی:     جناب سعید احمد خان ولد غلام محمد خان (ریٹائرڈ ایس پی)               آل شیر خان
  • تحقیق و تعاون:     سائیں معراج دین ولد حکیم محمد ابراہیم سوشل ورکر و جنرل کونسلر جنڈیالہ شیر خان 
  • خصوصی کاوش: جناب یونس محمد قاضی ولد محمد عبداللہ                                       جنڈیالہ شیر خان 

تاریخ تنصیب: یکم محرم الحرام 1433ھ مطابق 27 نومبر 2011ء  

Baoli of Jandiala Sher Khan – A Marvel of Mughal Architecture

This baoli (stepwell) was constructed in 976 Hijri, corresponding to 1568 AD. A baoli is a type of well in which steps are built leading down to the water level. The original inscription on this baoli was engraved in raised Persian script on a stone tablet, containing seven Persian couplets. This inscription, once the crown jewel of the building’s facade, was removed from the baoli in 1975 by the Deputy Commissioner on the orders of General Ghulam Jilani Khan, the former Governor of Punjab, and sent to the Lahore Museum. It can still be seen today in the Islamic Gallery of the Lahore Museum.

The renovation and restoration of this structure were carried out in 2008 by Mr. Shahid Rafiullah Khan, the Federal Secretary of Archaeology, Government of Pakistan. For the previous 36 years, this baoli remained without a name or identity. Seeing the deplorable condition of this historical heritage, the conscious and respectable people of the area were deeply saddened. Thus, they resolved to revive this historic legacy. In 2011, they had a new inscription made—exactly like the original—and placed it at the original location. Additionally, they had its Urdu translation installed alongside, so that people could become aware of the historical significance of this baoli.

The names of the individuals who arranged for the installation of the plaques are listed below:

By the efforts of: Mr. Sher Akbar Khan, son of Mahmood Akbar Khan 
(Member National Assembly), Descendant of Sher Khan.

Under the supervision of: Mr. Saeed Ahmad Khan, son of Ghulam Muhammad Khan 
(Retired Superintendent of Police),  Descendant of Sher Khan.

Research and Support: Saeen Miraj Din, son of Hakim Muhammad Ibrahim,
Social worker and General Councillor, Resident of Jandiala Sher Khan

Special Contribution: Mr. Younas Muhammad Qazi, son of Muhammad Abdullah, 
Resident of Jandiala Sher Khan

Date of Installation:  1st Muharram-ul-Haram, 1433 Hijri, corresponding to 27th November 2011



The Persian couplets provide details about the construction of this baoli. It was built during the reign of Emperor Akbar by the noble Sher Khan, in response to the demand / wish of Syed Ghaznavi. The verses lavishly praise Sher Khan’s generosity as well as the beauty and grandeur of the baoli.

In search of some information about the baoli or Jandiala Sher Khan, I found a website that gives a lot of information about this monument. The link is given below:

http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/sid/1132/pakistan/sheikhupura/jandiala-baoli-and-mosque

بعہد شہنشاہ اکبر لقب ۔ ۔ ۔ ہمایوں نسب خسرو کامیاب
بفرمودہ سید غزنوی۔ ۔ ۔ رفع المکان خان عالیجناب
محیط سخا و کرم شیر خان۔ ۔ ۔ لہ ابرار کف ہمتش بردہ آب
بنا کرد وائے زمین کرم۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ لہ شد رشک بر چشمہ آفتاب
زد لوش بودد لوگر دوں خجل۔ ۔ ۔ ۔زچرخش بود چرخ در پیچ و تاب
مہ نخشب از شرم ناید بروں۔ ۔ ۔ ۔اگر یکشب ایں وای بیند بخواب
از تاریخ آن گربہ پرسد خرد۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ بہ از چاہ نخشب بگو در جواب
In the reign of Emperor Akbar, the successful king, from the blessed genealogy.

on the precept of Syed Ghaznavi the prestigious and distinguished Khan.

Sher Khan the embodiment of generosity, from whose open hands the sky got its glow.
From his philanthropy, constructed a step-well, from which the Chashma-e-Aftab (Spring of the Sun) also stood envious.
Seeing the bucket of this step-well, the bucket of the sky (the Sun) is embarrassed and facing its pulley, the sky, is distressed.
If the Mah-e-Nakhshab (Legendary moon of Persia which rises from a well called Nakhshab) sees this step-well in the night, due to hesitation, would not try to come out of its well.
If wisdom would discover its Tareekh, then say in response ”Beh az Cha-i-Nakhshab" (Better than Nakhshab). 
(Tareekh refers to a date using Abjad numerals, which corresponds to the year 976 A.H., or 1564 in the Gregorian calendar).
An old mosque near the baoli. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

Interior of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

Mehrab of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

Another view of the interior of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

View of the mosque from outside the boundary wall. (23.07.2017)

Courtyard of the mosque. (23.07.2017)

One of the three wooden doors of the mosque. (23.07.2017) 

Mausoleum of the Syed Waris Shah can be seen from the roof of the baoli.  (23.07.2017)

The design of the step-well is quintessentially Akbarian. The groundplan is conceived as a central domed chamber surrounded by eight smaller rooms, a motif known as hasht bihisht ("eight paradises"), a Mughal innovation derived from Timurid precedent. In Akbar's era, the hasht bihisht motif was employed in all manner of buildings, such that "Ideas of funerary and residential architecture were almost entirely interchangeable" (Koch, p. 46). However, palace dwellings, gatehouses, and other non-mortuary buildings usually employed a flat roof rather than a projecting central dome, a rule maintained here. The profile of the roof was typically enlivened with multiple chattris that substituted for domes; at times these took the form of highly refined pith-helmet like structures such as those found at Fatepur Sikri, whereas those at Jandiala were less refined and more substantial.
Sher Khan's endowment of the baoli was immortalized by a plaque in Persian calligraphy that used to hang on the site, but was moved to the Lahore Museum for safekeeping in 1971 (for photos, refer to the final two images in the series above). The plaque describes when the baoli was built and praises its construction in poetic and flowery language: 

 According to drawings prepared by the Department of Archaeology, the superstructure of the baoli measures 21.62 meters on each side. The baoli itself has an internal radius of 7.54 meters.
As late as 2010 or thereabouts, the baoli was in extremely poor condition and partially collapsed. It was recently restored with a total reconstruction of the destroyed portions. Although the reconstructed pieces lack the ornamentation and elegance of the original design, they allow the visitor to experience the scope and grandeur of Sher Khan's vision. 

Sketches Drawn by Timothy M Ciccone, ink on mylar based on CAD rendering.
The nearby tomb of the famous Punjabi poet Waris Shah. (24.03.2021.)

This baoli is a very important structure because there are only a few baolis in Pakistan. At the moment, I can recall only five: the baolis in Rohtas Fort, Wan Bhachran in District Mianwali, near Dina, Wan Tarap in District Attock, and another in Wah.

I am very happy that the Department of Archaeology is now paying attention to the restoration of old historical buildings. After Katas Temples, Sheranwala Bagh, and Hiran Minar, this is the fourth site I have recently visited and found to be completely restored. The concerned department has indeed done a commendable job. It is also very easily accessible, as you can see in the map given below.


Tariq Amir

January 30, 2018.
Doha - Qatar.


Saturday, 27 January 2018

080 - Sheranwala Bagh In Gujranwala

Gujranwala is a comparatively new city, but it possesses a rich history along with a significant cultural and historical heritage. During the Mughal period, Gujranwala was an insignificant settlement، if it existed at all. The main towns in the area at that time were Hafizabad and Eminabad. The site where Gujranwala now stands was part of the Eminabad Pargana.

During the chaotic period following the decline of Mughal authority in Punjab, Charat Singh, the chief of the Sukerchakia Misl, made Gujranwala his headquarters from 1765 until his death in 1773. He and his son Maha Singh gradually expanded this small state over the coming decades. Ranjit Singh, who was born in Gujranwala in 1780, transformed it into a powerful kingdom during his reign, which lasted until 1839.

Although Ranjit Singh moved his capital to Lahore in 1799, Gujranwala remained an important town and made significant progress during his rule. The famous Sikh general Hari Singh Nalwa was also a resident of Gujranwala and played a key role in its development. The subject of this post, Sheranwala Bagh, was likely developed by him.

Sheranwala Bagh is located in the center of Gujranwala, adjacent to the famous GT Road, at coordinates 32° 9'21.04"N, 74°11'19.28"E. It covers an area of about five acres, though it was much larger in the past. Over time, portions of the garden have been encroached upon from all sides. It remains a beautiful and well-maintained garden, featuring a Baradari (pavilion) at its center.

When I first visited it on 16 March 2011, the Baradari was in ruins. However, I was pleasantly surprised when I visited again on 22 July 2017, after a complete restoration (almost a reconstruction), it had been beautifully revived and now stands gracefully among the mature trees of the garden. I deeply appreciate the efforts of the concerned department for restoring such a historically important structure.


Baradari in Sheranwala Bagh. (22.07.2017)

Another view of the Baradari in Sheranwala Bagh. (22.07.2017)

Two sides of the Baradari. (22.07.2017)

Inside view of the Baradari. (22.07.2017)

Beautifully painted designs inside the Baradari. (22.07.2017)

 Wooden roof of the Baradari. (22.07.2017)

Another view of the decorative designs in the Baradari. (22.07.2017)

There are small rooms at the four corners of the Baradari. (22.07.2017)

A general view of the Sheranwala Bagh. (22.07.2017)

Another view of the garden. (22.07.2017)

Sahibzada Shah Sultan. (22.07.2017)

Tariq Amir. (22.07.2017)

Samadhi of Maha Singh, father of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, as can be seen from the garden(22.07.2017) 

A section of the boundary wall of the Sheranwala Bagh. (22.07.2017)

A bastion on the boundary wall of the garden. (22.07.2017)

Baradari on 16.03.2011.

Baradai on 16.03.2017.

Gazetteer of the Gujranwala District, 1936, mentions the garden in the following words:
To the south of Gujranwala there are the Encmapming ground, the Sadar Police Station, the Government High School, the Mahan Singh Garden (containing the Estcourt Club and the Health Centre) and there are in the city the Islamia High School, the Government High School For Girls, the Khalsa Intermediate College, the Municipal Hospital For Women, the various Missionary Institutions, the Government Industrial School, the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the Cinemas etc. The principal buildings of architectural interest are the smadh of Mahan Singh, father of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, and a baradari in Mahan Singh's Garden. Close by is a lofty cupola, covering a portion of the ashes of the great ruler himsel. 
The Gazetteer refers to Sheranwala Bagh as the Mahan Singh Garden. I did not see any cupola in the garden. However, the Samadhi of Maha Singh still exists nearby and indeed has a lofty cupola. 

Almost every time, at the end of my posts about a historic building, I express my wish for the repair and restoration of that particular monument. However, I am happily concluding this post on a happy note, that it has probably been restored to its original beauty. Now, all it needs is a little care in the future as well.


Tariq Amir

January 27, 2018. 
Doha - Qatar 

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