166. Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad.

Islamabad is the newest city in Pakistan, but the history of this region is very old. Once it was part of great Gandhara civilization and still some ruins dating back to that time are found in Margalla hills. Many more historic buildings from later periods are found in different parts of the capital territory. The most probably among them is the Pharwala Fort.

http://pakgeotagging.blogspot.com/2014/05/pharwala-fort-islamabad.html. 

But conserving this rich historical and cultural heritage is nowhere on the priority list of the Capital Development Authority, responsible for the development of the capital. So most of such heritage has already disappeared or is close to extinction. One such monument is Sarai Kharbuza. It is located or rather was located at 33°40'54.83"N, 72°54'21.21"E. Most of the walls and other structures, including gates have totally disappeared and have been swallowed up by hunger for land of the rapidly rising population and uncontrolled construction. Now just a small portion of the southwestern corner is indicating the location and once the magnificent structure of the Sarai. 

I visited the place a month ago on the 14th of May, 2023. Even the little portion that has survived is not accessible due to houses blocking the way. I knocked at the door of one house but no male member was at home. Another person I met in the street was in no mood to cooperate. Later on, a person told me that people are wary of strangers showing any interest in the sarai. The reason is simple, the locals are running a dispute with the government authorities over the ownership of the land and putting all kinds of resistance to its preservation efforts. So they are bent upon eradicating the last vestiges of the sarai and I am sure they will succeed before long. The said person also advised me not to push my luck otherwise there were chances to face unpleasant situations. That was enough warning for me. 

A sarai, as most of us know, were halting places, constructed along major highways. The caravans and travellers were provided accommodation, food, water and fodder for their animals. Above all, protection from dangerous elements. All these facilities were provided free of any cost, at least during better times and during stable governments. 

The southwestern corner of the Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad. (14.05.2023)

So, when it was built? Perhaps there is no record of its complete history. However, Emperor Jahangir mentions it in his biography Tuzk-e-Jahangiri. 

On Monday 10th Muharram 1016/AD 1605, I encamped at Sarai Kharbooza. The Ghakkar (Gakhar) in former days erected one domed structure here in which they used to collect toll from travelers. As the dome is shaped like a melon, it is called Kharbooza. On this march, is the pass called Marigalla.

So it can be safely assumed that it was built well before the times of Mughals, probably centuries before as some sources. However, repairs and modifications from time to time are quite possible. Anyway, at the present time just a fraction of this huge structure is remaining. 

The southwestern corner of the Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad. (14.05.2023)

ٓA lane leading to the inner parts of the sarai, but is blocked. (14.05.2023)

An old structure inside the sarai area. (14.05.2023)

The country side near Sarai Kharbuza, Islamabad. (14.05.2023)

While browsing the net in search of some information about this sarai, I found an informative article on this subject written by Dr Nadeem Omar Tarar. It is worth reading if you are interested in finding something more about the sarai.

Cultural Heritage on the Cusp of Silk Roads: Caravanserai Kharbooza in Islamabad

The open to the sky courtyard of Sarai Kharbooza used as a marketplace was surrounded by hundreds of chambers, stalls and storage bays to accommodate travelers along with their servants, animals, and merchandise. There were 26 chambers in the inner walls on the north and south, and 24 chambers on the east and west. Sarai Kharbooza has been constructed in small brick masonry and plastered in lime surkhi. There is a mosque in the north-western corner of the inner courtyard of the Sarai, which has been renovated, and plastered with cement mortar. The mehrab has been left untouched, which reveals the floral designs in blue, orange and green colors. A unique feature of the mosque is a wood-fired hot-water storage tank with a domed top, which was used for ablution and bathing. There are also traces of a bath house which was connected through large arched underground chamber with the well.

https://www.hilal.gov.pk/eng-article/detail/MjMwMg==.html

Though it is already too late to conserve this sarai or any significant part of it. But it is still possible to save a small section of the wall, a few rooms and one bastion at the southwestern corner. That will at least a proof of its existence and reference points for historians and archaeologists.

Kindly find below the links of my two articles regarding

http://pakgeotagging.blogspot.com/2017/01/rawat-fort.html

https://pakgeotagging.blogspot.com/2023/06/165-sangni-fort-district-rawalpindi.html

Tariq Amir

June 15, 2023.

Islamabad