206. Exploring an Old Serai at Rajopindi, district Jhelum!

The legendary Grand Trunk Road, which traversed the entire North Indian Plain, was one of the major commercial routes of the subcontinent. It played a crucial role in the political, economic, and military history of North India. Its importance has been recognized since the time of Ashoka, and all subsequent rulers and dynasties paid attention to its upkeep. However, its true golden age arrived during the Mughal period, when the road was extensively developed and equipped with various facilities, such as caravanserais, baolis, and dak chowkis. Many of these structures still exist today, though most survive only as ruins.

Location and Present Condition: 

One such serai is located at Rajopindi, a village about two kilometers northwest of the famous Rohtas Fort, built by Sher Shah Suri in the 1540s. Most of the serai’s original structures and outer walls have disappeared, and a village has since grown within its boundaries. However, even a cursory look on Google Earth clearly reveals the outline and size of the original complex. Today, only the main gate, the remains of some rooms, and a small section of the protective wall survive. Unfortunately, no effort has been made to preserve or restore these remnants.

The serai is roughly square in shape, with each side measuring approximately 164 meters, covering an area of about 6.5 acres. The location of the main gate is 32°58'56.40"N, 73°33'46.10"E. For better understanding, kindly refer to the Google map at the end. 

Other Serais in the Potohar Region:

In the Potohar region, I explored two other serais: Serai Pakka near Gujar Khan and Serai Kharbuza near Islamabad. The former is in a little better shape, with most of its walls still extant, whereas the latter has been almost completely destroyed, except for a few remnants.

All three are located near the present route of the GT Road and are square in shape, which is typical of such serais. The other two serais are almost equal in size, covering an area of around 3.6 acres. This serai, however, is considerably larger and, as noted above, covers an area of approximately 6.5 acres. Another serai in the Potohar region is Begum ki Serai, situated on the banks of the Indus River. I have yet to explore that one, as it is currently not open to visitors.

Exploring the Serai of Rajopindi:

Now, let us explore the Serai of Rajopindi in detail. It has a few sections that deserve a visitor’s attention: the main gate, the well and mosque, the ruins of several rooms, and a surviving section of the wall. We will examine each of these features step by step. Together, they offer a glimpse into the original layout and functioning of this once-important caravanserai.

The Main Gate:

The main gate is the best-surviving structure in the whole serai. It is quite imposing and built in the traditional Mughal architectural style. This massive gateway features a double-door system for security and, in typical Mughal fashion, has a tall arched entrance wide enough to allow the passage of loaded camels, horses, and carts. The structure is solid and strong, designed to offer protection to travellers at night when the doors were closed.

Inside, small guard chambers can be seen on both sides of the entrance. The gateway is a two-storey structure, with additional rooms on the upper floor, which were most likely used by guards for observation and security. The heavy wooden doors, however, no longer exist. The gate is built with carved stones and bricks. 

The main gate of the Serai of Rajopindi. (10.11.2025.)

A closer view of the gate. (10.11.2025.)

Another view with a small section of wall intact on the left. (10.11.2025.)

The arched entrance and the upper chambers are visible. (10.11.2025.)

A view from the other direction. (10.11.2025.)

The door is quite tall and leaves a strong impression. (10.11.2025.)

 An inner view of the gate. (10.11.2025.)

The passage leads to the centre of the Serai. (10.11.2025.)

Vaulted roof of the gate. (10.11.2025.)

A guard chamber. (10.11.2025.)

A view of the gate from inside. (10.11.2025.)

The first floor of the gate. (10.11.2025.)

A chamber on the first floor of the gate. (10.11.2025.)

Looking down the first floor. (10.11.2025.)

Another chamber on the first floor. (10.11.2025.)

The rooms in the Serai:

It is a large Serai with a perimeter of around 650 meters. The basic purpose of a Serai was to accommodate a large caravan with hundreds, or perhaps thousands, of people travelling together. For this purpose, as many rooms as possible were constructed. The usual layout was rooms all along the boundary walls, facing the central courtyard, which was used to keep animals and a large quantity of merchandise and travellers’ goods. We see the same pattern in this Serai as well. Though almost all the rooms have vanished, luckily ruins of partially collapsed structures of a few rooms still exist. These rooms give us a good idea about their size and shape. They exist along the backside of the Serai, in the northwestern corner. My rough estimate is that almost 25 rooms existed on each side of the wall, so the total number of rooms would be as many as one hundred.

A row of rooms along the northern wall of the Serai. (10.11.2025.)

The rooms are quite spacious. (10.11.2025.)

Almost eight or nine rooms can still be traced. (10.11.2025.)

A broken section of the wall. (10.11.2025.)

A bastion at the northwestern corner of the Serai. (10.11.2025.)

The northern wall is intact to some extent. (10.11.2025.)

A bastion at the northeastern corner of the Serai. (10.11.2025.)

A Mosque and a Well in the Serai:

A Serai not only provided accommodation and security to travellers but also other amenities of life, such as a mosque for prayer and a supply of fresh water through a well. These two facilities are found in almost all Serais. The same is the case with this Serai, where a mosque and a well are found side by side, almost in the middle of the Serai.

Mosque of the Serai. (10.11.2025.)

Well of the Serai. (10.11.2025.)

A general view of the well. (10.11.2025.)

Syed Hassan Abbas. (10.11.2025.)

My dear friend Hassan bore with me patiently and accompanied me throughout the day. His pleasant company made this journey even more enjoyable, leaving me with memories I will cherish for a long time.

The writer. (10.11.2025.)

Despite its historical significance and its proximity to Rohtas Fort, no preservation effort has yet been undertaken. The surviving gateway remains unprotected and exposed to the elements, while the remaining walls continue to deteriorate. Without immediate conservation, these last traces of the serai may soon be lost entirely, not even surviving in history or memory.

 

Tariq Amir

December 6, 2025.

Islamabad

205. Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Tibba Sahib Abhor Nanaksar (Tibba Abhor / Chak 1 EB), district Pakpattan!

About ten kilometers east of Arifwala, on the road towards Pakpattan, there is a mound rising from the green cultivated plain. A small village with about two dozen houses and a large graveyard stands atop this mound, which covers an area of almost 30 acres. The village is now called Jati Usman, after a saint buried nearby, but it was once known as Tibba Abhor,  tibba in Punjabi means “mound.”

Significance and Location:

The main significance of this place is a gurdwara built in memory of Pehli Patshahi Baba Guru Nanak Dev Ji. Pehli Patshahi literally means “the first sovereignty” or “first reign,” but in Sikh tradition it refers to the First Guru.

Guru Nanak Dev Ji, the founder and first Guru of the Sikh religion, was born in 1469 in Nankana Sahib and passed away in 1539 at Kartarpur, both places now located in Pakistan. Guru Nanak Dev Ji travelled extensively across India and beyond to spread his teachings of spirituality, equality, and humanity. It is believed that during one of his many journeys, he visited this place and stayed here for some time. 

This beautiful gurdwara is located at: 30°19'56.11"N, 73°10'30.69"E. It must have been a wonderful sight to behold this building when it was built in the 1940s. Even today, it is the most prominent building in the surrounding area. Its beautiful dome is visible from quite a long distance from all directions. 

Gurdwara Pehli Patshani Tibba Nanak Sahib (Tibba Abhor). 04.10.2025.

Gurdwara Tibba Abhor, is located inside a courtyard, now a house. (04.10.2025.)

Another view of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

The western side of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

The southern side of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

Another view of the southern side of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

Looking from the southeast. (04.10.2025.)

The northern side of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

The gurdwara is located in a spacious courtyard. (04.10.2025.)

The ame kind of verandah is found on all four sides. (04.10.2025.)

Architecture: 

As the pictures show, the building was constructed in the traditional gurdwara style. It is a two-storey, square-shaped structure. There is a central room surrounded by a veranda on both floors, with each side featuring four arches. The sides measure about 9 meters in length. Modern construction materials such as cement and iron were used in its construction.

At present, the complex covers an area of roughly 1,350 square meters, but it appears that originally it was at least twice this size. The main entrance gate now stands at a distance from the gurdwara and is separated from the current courtyard, which suggests the area was once larger.

On the eastern side of the gurdwara is a row of a few rooms, and to the north lies a large hall, probably the main prayer hall. This hall is quite spacious and could easily accommodate a large congregation. It is approximately 18 meters long and 8 meters wide.

 View of the gurdwara from the roof of the nearby rooms. (04.10.2025.)

 View of the gurdwara from the roof of the nearby rooms. (04.10.2025.)

A full view of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

The central room of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

Looking up towards the dome. (04.10.2025.)

The central room. (04.10.2025.)

The first floor. (04.10.2025.)

Looking down the inner sanctum beneath the dome. (04.10.2025.)

A corridor on the first floor. (04.10.2025.)

A view of the hall from the first floor of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

 The main hall. (04.10.2025.)

 Another view of the main hall. (04.10.2025.)

Interior of the hall. (04.10.2025.)

The roof is quite high, supported by iron girders and wooden beams. (04.10.2025.)

The other side of the hall. (04.10.2025.)

The back side of the hall. (04.10.2025.)

The base of Nishan Sahib, which no longer exists. (04.10.2025.)

The original main entrance, no longer in use.  (04.10.2025.)

The main gate, as seen from the roof of the rooms in the gurdwara compound. (04.10.2025.)

A closer view.  (04.10.2025.)

Back Row, L to R: Rizwan, Ashra, Shahid & Ibrahim.  (04.10.2025.)

The family living there is very cooperative, and they kindly allowed us to enter and visit the premises. Unlike some other places, they are taking excellent care of the gurdwara and keep it neat and clean, thus respecting the sanctity of this holy place.

Sarovar:

To the north of the gurdwara, just behind the main hall, a sarovar was constructed. A sarovar in a Gurdwara is a sacred pool or water reservoir built for religious and spiritual purposes, and it is an important feature of Sikh architecture and tradition. This one is quite large, measuring approximately 31 × 40 meters. Its boundary wall is still partially intact, and the steps leading down to the water can also be seen, although the floor of the pool has been filled with dirt. It is possible that the original floor still survives beneath the debris. The existence of such a large sarovar provides further indication of the importance and prominence of this gurdwara.

Sarovar of the gurdwara.  (04.10.2025.)

The boundary wall and the steps of the gurdwara. (04.10.2025.)

The sarovar. (04.10.2025.)

L to R: Shahid Naeem & Tariq Amir. (04.10.2025.)

During my visit, I missed photographing some plaques and realized this mistake only after returning to Islamabad. Fortunately, my cousin Shahid Naeem, who lives near Arifwala, had accompanied me on the visit. I requested him to go back to the site, and he kindly visited again and sent me the photos of the missing plaques.

History of the construction of this building:

I could not find any information on the early history of this gurdwara, but we can safely assume that a gurdwara existed at this place for a long time and that a Sikh community lived around it. Fortunately, we do have authentic information about the construction of the present building, preserved in the form of nearly two dozen plaques. These plaques provide invaluable details about the donors who generously contributed towards the construction of the gurdwara, their places of residence, and most importantly, the dates of their donations. This information helps us draw a clear timeline of the building’s construction. In total, I noted 30 plaques and inscriptions.

Beginning of the construction (1938):

The earliest plaque, in chronological order, gives a date of mid-September 1938. I found this plaque in the main hall, which indicates that construction began around September 1938, and that the hall was the first structure to be built in the gurdwara complex. And for this purpose, a significant amount of Rs 200 was donated. 

PLAQUE NO. 01

੧ ਓ

ਇਸ ਗੈਲਰੀ ਪਰ ੨੦੦ ਦੀ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ

ਸਰਦਾਰ ਸਾਹਿਬ ਸ੍ਰ: ਸਾਹਿਬ ਸਿੰਘ ਸ੍ਰ: ਫਤਹ ਸਿੰਘ

ਸ੍ਰ: ਹਕਮ ਸਿੰਘ ਸ੍ਰ: ਹਰਿਨਾਮ ਸਿੰਘ ਜੀ

ਸਾਕਨ ਬੂਰੇਵਾਲਾ ੧ ਅੱਸੂ ਸ: ੧੯੯੫ 

1 اونکار

اس گیلری پر 200 دی سیوا کرائی

سردار صاحب سردار صاحب سنگھ سردار فتح سنگھ

سردار حکم سنگھ سردار ہرنام سنگھ جی

ساکن بوریوالہ 1 اسو سن 1995 (ستمبر 1938 ء)

There is One God

A service worth Rs 200 was rendered on this gallery by Sardar Sahib Sardar Sahib Singh, Sardar Fateh Singh, Sardar Hukam Singh, Sardar Harnam Singh, residents of Burewala. 1 Assu Year 1995 (September 1938 AD) 

Nishan Sahib (1940):

Plaque No. 02 is fixed on the octagonal base of the Nishan Sahib. Although the pole itself no longer exists, the base is still intact. The date given on the plaque is mid-October 1940, which clearly shows that the Nishan Sahib—an integral part of every gurdwara and a prominent symbol of the Sikh faith—was erected in October 1940.

PLAQUE NO. 02

੧ ਓ 

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸ੍ਰ: ਗੁਰਚਰਨ ਸਿੰਘ ਪਿੰਡ ਸਫ਼ੀ

ਮੈਬਰ ਗੁ: ਟਿੱਬਾ ਸਾਹਿਬ

੧ ਕਤਕ ਸੰ: ੧੯੯੭

1 اونکار

51 سیوا کرائی 

سردار گورچرن سنگھ پنڈ صافی

ممبر گوردوارہ ٹِبہ صاحب 

1 کتک سن 1997 ( وسط اکتوبر 1940 ء)

There is One God

Service worth Rs 51 was rendered by Sardar Gurcharan Singh of Pind Safi, a member of the gurdwara Tibba Sahib. Katak 1997 (Mid October, 1940 AD) 

Construction of the main gurdwara building (1942):

Construction of the main gurdwara building began in earnest in 1942. This year, ten significant donations were recorded. Interestingly, all of these donations were made in the month of February. This suggests that February—generally considered an appropriate time to begin construction in this region—was when the gurdwara administration issued an appeal for contributions and received a good response.

PLAQUE NO. 03

...............

......................................

......................................

੧ ਫਗਨ ੧੯੯੯

1 پھگن 1999 (13 فروری 1943 ء)

1 Phagan 1999 ( 13 February, 1942)  

PLAQUE NO. 04

੧ ਓ 

੫੧ ਰਪੈ ਦੀ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਮਾਤਾ ਗੰਗੋ ਬਾਈ ਸਪੁਤਨੀ ਸ੍ਰ:

ਕਾਹਨ ਸਿੰਘ ਚੁਘ ਰਾਹੀ ਸ੍ਰ: ਈਸ਼ਰ ਸਿੰਘ

ਸਪੁਤਰ ਸ੍ਰ: ਕਾਹਨ ਸਿੰਘ .... ....

੧ ਫਗਨ ੧੯੯੯ 

1 اونکار

51 روپے دی سیوا کرائی

ماتا گنگو بائی سپتنی سردار

کاہن سنگھ چُگھ راہی سردار ایشر سنگھ

سپُتر سردار کاہن سنگھ

1 پھگن 1999 ( وسط فروری 1942 ء)

There is One God

Service worth Rs 51 was rendered by Mata Gango Bai w/o Sardar Kahan Singh, Sardar Eshar Singh s/o Kahan Singh ..........

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 05

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸ੍ਰ: ਬਹਾਦਰ ਸਿੰਘ ਝਬੋਕਿਆ ਵਾਲੇ

ਚਕ ਨੰਬਰ ੫੩/EB ਵਾਲੇ

੧ ਫਗਨ ਸਮਤ ੧੯੯੯

51 سیوا کرائی

سردار بہادر سنگھ جھبوکیاں والے

چک نمبر 53/EB والے

1 پھگن سمت 1999 (وسط فروری 1942)

Service rendered worth Rs 51, by Sarar Bahadur Singh of Jhabkian, of Chak No. 53/EB

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942)

PLAQUE NO. 06

..... ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

.....ਨਾਥ ...ਸਪੁਤਰ

........ਰਾਮ ਪਾਕਪਤਨ

੧ ਫਾਗਨ ੧੯੯੯

 ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔۔سیوا کرائی

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ناتھ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ سپتر

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔  رام پاکپتن

1 پھگن 1999 (وسط فروری 1942 ء)

Service worth Rs ..... rendered by ...... Nath, s/o ....... Ram 

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 07

੧ ਓ 

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸ: ਸਤਨਾਮ ਸਿੰਘ ਗੁਰਬਖਸ਼ ਸਿੰਘ

ਮਹਮੂਦਪੁਰ ਵਾਲੇ

੧ ਫਗਨ ੧੯੯੯

1 اونکار

51 سیوا کرائی

سردار ستنام سنگھ گوربخش سنگھ

محمود پور والے

1 پھگن 1999 (وسط فروری 1942 ء)

There is One God

Service worth Rs 51 rendered by Sardar Satnam Singh, Gurbakhsh Singh of Mehmoodpur.

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 08

੧ ਓ

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਕਕਾ ਸਿੰਘ

ਆਰਫ਼ ਵਾਲਾ

੧ ਫਗਨ ੧੯੯੯

1 اونکار

 51 سیوا کرائی

ککا سنگھ

عارف والے

1 پھگن 1999 (وسط فروری 1942 ء)

There is One God

Service worth Rs 51 rendered by Kakka Singh of Arifwala.

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 09

੧ ਓ

੫੧ ਸੇਵੀ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਲਧਾ ਸਿੰਘ ਕਾਲੜਾ ਸਪੁਤ੍ਰ

ਸ੍ਰ: ਹਰਨਾਮ ਸਿੰਘ 

... .... ....  ਸਿੰਘ

੧ ਫਗਨ ੧੯੯੯

1 اونکار

51 سیوا کرائی

لدھا سنگھ کالڑا سپُتر

سردار ہرنام سنگھ 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  سنگھ

1 پھگن 1999 (وسط فروری 1942 ء)

There is One God

Service worth Rs 51 rendered by Ladha Singh Kalra s/o Sardar Harnam Singh, ........ Singh.

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 10

੧ ਓ 

... ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ

..... ਰਾਮ ......

..........................

......... ੧ ਫਗਨ ੧੯੯੯

1 اونکار

۔ ۔ ۔ سیوا کرائی 

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ رام ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ 

 ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ 

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ 1 پھگن 1999 (وسط فروری 1942 ء)

There is One God

Service worth Rs ....... rendered by ........... Ram .................................................................................

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 11

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਸ੍ਰ: ਪ੍ਰਤਾਪ ਸਿੰਘ

ਗੁਰਦਿਆਲ ਸਿੰਘ ਕਾਲੜਾ

ਮਹਮੂਦਪੁਰ ਨਿਵਾਸੀ

੧ ਹਾੜ ਸੰ: ੨੦੦੦ 

51 سیوا کرائی سردار پرتاپ سنگھ

گوردیال سنگھ کالڑا

محمود پور نواسی 

1 ہاڑ سن 2000 (وسط جولائی 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs 51 rendered by Sardar Partap Singh, Gurdial Singh Kalra, residents of Mahmoodpur.

1 Phagan 1999 (Mid February, 1942 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 12

੧ ਓ

੧੦੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਰਾਈ 

ਗੁਰਚਰਨ ਸਿੰਘ .... 

.........................

.........................

........ ਫਗਨ ੧੯੯੯ 

1 اونکار

101 سیوا کرائی

گورچرن سنگھ

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ 

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ پھگن 1999

There is One God۔

Service worth 101 rendered by Sardar Gurcharan Singh ..............

...........................................................

Phagan 1999 (Feb/Mar, 1942)

Construction of the main gurdwara building (1943):

In this year as well, construction continued, and according to the plaques, eleven significant donations were made. All of these plaques are found on the main building of the gurdwara. Most of the donations were made in the middle of the year. 

PLAQUE NO. 13

 .... ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਲਾਲਾ ਤਾਰਾ ਚੰਦ

ਸਪੁਤਰ ਲਾਲਾ ਖਾਨ ਚੰਦ

ਗੋਗੇ ਵਾੜਾ ਚਕ ਨੰਬਰ 33/EB

ਵਾਲੇ .... .... ਸਮਤ ੨੦੦੦

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ سیوا کرائی لالہ تارا چند

سپُتر لالہ تھان چند

گورےواڑا چک نمبر 33 / EB

والے ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ ۔  سمت 2000 (1942 ء)

Service worth ...... rendered by Lala Tara Chand s/o Lala Than Chand residents of Gorey Wara Chak No. 33/EB. Samvat 2000 (1943 AD)

 PLAQUE NO. 14

੧੦੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸ੍ਰ: ਘਮੰਡ ਸਿੰਘ ਤਿਨਾ ਸਪੁਤਰ

ਸ੍ਰ: ਸ਼ੇਰ ਸਿੰਘ ਸਫ਼ੀ ਹਾਂਸ ਵਾਲੇ

੧ ਵਿਸਾਖ ਸ: ੨੦੦੦

101 سیوا کرائی

سردار گھمنڈ سنگھ تِنا سپتر

سردار شیر سنگھ صافی ہانس والے

1 وِساکھ سن 2000  (وسط اپریل 1943 ء)

Service rendered worth Rs 101, by Sardar Ghamand Singh Tinna s/o Sardar Sher Singh Safi Hans Wale.

1 Wisakh, 2000. ( Mid April, 1943 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 15

੫੧ ਦੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ

ਬਸੀ ਬਾਈ ਸਪੁਤਨੀ ਸ੍ਰ: ਲਧਾ ਸਿੰਘ 

ਕਾਲੜਾ ਵਾਁ ਦਲ ਸਿੰਘ ਵਾਲੇ 

੧ ਵਿਸਾਖ ਸੰਮਤ ੨੦੦੦

51 سیوا کرائی 

بسی بائی سپُتنی سردار لدھا سنگھ

کالڑا واں دل سنگھ والے

1 وِساکھ سمت 2000  (وسط اپریل 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs 51, rendered by Bassi Bai w/o Sardar Ladha Singh Kalra, of Vaan Dal. 

1 Wisakh, Samvat 2000. ( Mid April, 1943 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 16

..... ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਸ੍ਰ: ਗੁਰਚਰਨ ਸਿੰਘ

ਤਿਨਾ ਸਫ਼ੀ ਨਿਵਾਸੀ ਸੈਬਰ ਲੋ: ਗੁ:ਪ:

ਕਮੇਟੀ ਗੁਰਦਅਰਾ ਟਿੱਬਾ ਸਾਹਿਬ

੧ ਹਾੜ ਸੰ: ੨੦੦੦

۔ ۔ ۔ ۔ سیوا کرائی سردار گورچرن سنگھ 

تِناں صفی نِواسی ممبر لو: (لوکل)، گو: (گوردوارہ)، پ (پربندھک)

کمیٹی گوردوارہ ٹِبہ صاحب

1 ہاڑ سن 2000 ( وسط جون 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs ..... rendered by Sardar Gurcharan Singh, resident of Tinna Safi, Member of Local Gurdwara Parbhandak Committee, Gurdwara Tibba Sahib. 

1 Har Year 2000 (Mid June, 1943 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 17

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਸ੍ਰ: ਕੇਸਰ ਸਿੰਘ 

ਮਖਨ ਸਿੰਘ ਤਿਨਾ

ਕੋਟ ਹਿਰਾ ਸਿੰਘ ਨਿਵਾਸੀ 

੧ ਹਾੜ ਸੰ: ੨੦੦੦

51 سیوا کرائی سردار کیسر سنگھ

مکھن سنگھ تِنا

کوٹ ہیرا سنگھ نواسی

1 ہاڑ سن 2000 ( وسط جون 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs 51 rendered by Sardar Kesar Singh, Makhan Singh, residents of Tinna Kot Heera Singh. 

1 Har Year 2000 (Mid June, 1943 AD) 

PLAQUE NO. 18

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਸ: ਵੀਰ ਸਿੰਘ

ਨੰਦ ਸਿੰਘ ਕਾਲੜਾ

ਮਹਮੂਦ ਪੁਰ ਨਿਵਾਸੀ

੧ ਹਾੜ ਸੰ: ੨੦੦੦

51 سیوا کرائی سردارویر سنگھ

نند سنگھ کالڑا

محمود پور نِواسی

1 ہاڑ سن 2000 ( وسط جون 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs 51 rendered by Veer Singh, Nand Singh Kalra, residents of Mahmoodpur. 

1 Har Year 2000 (Mid June, 1943 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 19

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਜਮਨਾ ਬਾਈ 

ਸਪੁਤਨੀ ਸ੍ਰ: ਲਾਭ ਸਿੰਘ

ਗਿਦੜ ਸਫ਼ੀ ਨਿਵਾਸੀ

੧ ਹਾੜ ਸਮਤ ੨੦੦੦

51 سیوا کرائی جمنا بائی

سپُتنی سردار لابھ سنگھ

گِدڑ صافی ںِواسی

1 ہاڑ سمت 2000 ( وسط جون 1943 ء)

Service rendered worth Rs 51 by Jamna Bai w/o Sardar Labh Singh, resident of Giddar Safi.1 Har Samvat 2000. (Mid June, 1943 AD) 

PLAQUE NO. 20

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਸ: ਪਿਆਰ ਸਿੰਘ 

ਸਤਨਾਮ ਸਿੰਘ ਕਾਲੜਾ

ਮਹਮੂਦਪੁਰ ਨਿਵਾਸੀ

੧ ਹਾੜ ਸੰ: ੨੦੦੦

51 سیوا کرائی سردار پیار سنگھ

ستنام سنگھ کالڑا

محمود پور نِواسی

1 ہاڑ سمت 2000 ( وسط جون 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs 51, rendered by Sardar Piar Singh, Satnam Singh Kalra, residents of Mahmoodpur. 

1 Har Samvat 2000. (Mid June, 1943 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 21

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਸ੍ਰ: ਬਿਸ਼ਨ ਸਿੰਘ

ਬਹਾਦਰ ਸਿੰਘ ਨੰਬਰਦਾਰ ਚਕ ਨੰ

....  ਸਪੁਤਰ ਸ੍ਰ: ਖੁਸ਼ਾਲ ਸਿੰਘ

ਸਾਵਨ ਦਿਨ ੧ ਸੰ: ੨੦੦੦

51 سیوا کرائی سردار بِشن سنگھ 

بہادر سنگھ نمبردار چک نمبر

9 ای بی سپتر سردار خوشال سنگھ

ساون دن 1 سمت 2000 (وسط جولائی 1943 ء)

Service rendered worth Rs 51 by Sardar Bishan Singh, Bahadur Singh Nambar Chak No. 9 EB, o Sardar Khushal Singh.

Sawan, Day 1, Samvat 2000. (Mid July, 1943 AD) 

PLAQUE NO. 22

੧੦੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਲਾਲਾ ਰਾਮ ਲਭਾਇਆ ਕੰਦਨ ਲਾਲ 

ਚਕ ਨੰਬਰ ੪ ਵਾਲੇ

੧ ਕਤਕ ੨੦੦੦

101 سیوا کرائی

لالہ رام لبھائیا کندن لال

چک نمبر 4 والے

1 کتک 2000 (وسط اکتوبر 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs 101 rendered by Lala Ram Labhaia Kundan Lal of Chak No. 4.

1 Katak 2000 (Mid October, 1943 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 23

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸ੍ਰ: ਸਾਹਿਬ ਸਿੰਘ ਸੋਹਣ ਸਿੰਘ

ਸ਼ਫੀ ਵਾਲੇ

ਮਿਤੀ ਕਤਕ ਦੀ ੧ ਸੰਮਤ ੨੦੦੦

51 سیوا کرائی

سردار صاحب سنگھ موہنڑ سنگھ

شافی والے

مِتی کتک دی 1 سمت 2000 (وسط اکتوبر 1943 ء)

Service worth Rs 51 rendered by Sardar Sahib Singh, Mohan Singh, residents of Shafi. 

Date First of Katak Samvat 2000 (Mid October, 1943 AD)

Completion (1945 / 46):

The next two plaques and the last two inscriptions show dates of October 1945 and October 1946. These indicate that by this time the main work had been completed and the final touches were being added to the structure. The last date—October 1946, less than a year before Partition—intensifies the poignancy of the tragedy of 1947, with its migration, upheaval, and eventual abandonment. The gurdwara, built with such dedication and generosity, had to be deserted almost immediately after its completion.

It is also possible that the building was not fully completed. The main gate clearly shows that it was yet to be plastered and decorated. Hence, these plaques provide us with a clear timeline of the construction of this gurdwara, beginning in September 1938 and ending around October 1946.

PLAQUE NO. 24

੧੦੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸੱਤ ਕਰਤਾਰ ਸਿੰਘ ਵਾਲੇ

ਬਾ: ਸਤਨਾਮ ਸਿੰਘ 

ਟਿੱਬਾ ਸਾਹਿਬ ਅਭੋਰ ਨਾਨਕ ਸਰ

ਅੱਸੂ ੨੦੦੨ 

101 سیوا کرائی

ست کرتار سنگھ والے

ستنام سنگھ 

ٹِبہ صاحب ابھور نانک سر

اسو 2002 (ستمبر / اکتوبر 1945 ء)

Service worth Rs 101, rendered by the Sat Kartar Singh, Satnam Singh Tibba Abhor Sahib Nanak Sar. Assu 2002. (September / October, 1945 AD)

PLAQUE NO. 25

੫੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸ੍ਰ: ਸੰਤੋਖ ਸਿੰਘ ਮਹਮੂਦ ਵਾਲੇ 

ਨੇ ਅਪਨੇ ਸਪੁਤਰ

ਕਾਕਾ ਅਜੀਤ ਸਿੰਘ ਸੁਰਗਵਾਸੀ ਦੀ

ਯਾਦਗਾਰ ਵਿਚ ੨੦੦੩ ਅੱਸੂ

51 سیوا کرائی

سردار سنتوکھ سنگھ محمود والے

نے اپنے سپُتر

کاکا اجیت سنگھ سورگواسی دی

یادگار وِچ 2003 اسو (ستمبر/ اکتوبر 1946 ء)

Service worth 51 rendered by Sardar Santokh Singh of Mahmood, in memory of his son late Kaka Ajit Singh.

Assu 2003 (Sep. / Oct. 1946 AD) 

PLAQUE NO. 26

੧੦੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

.... ਸਿੰਘ ਤਿਨਾ

ਸਫ਼ੀ ਵਾਲੇ ਨੇ

101 سیوا کرائی

۔ ۔ ۔ سنگھ تِنا

صافی والے نے 

Service worth Rs 101 rendered by ........ Singh of Tinna Safi. 

PLAQUE NO. 27

੧੦੧ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ 

ਸ: ਬੁਧ ਸਿੰਘ ਤਿਨਾ

ਸਫ਼ੀ ਵਾਲੇ ਨੇ

101 سیورکرائی

سردار بُدھ سنگھ تِنا

صافی والے نے

Service worth Rs 101 rendered by Sardar Budh Singh of Tinna Safi.

Inscription No. 28

੧੨੦ ਇਸ ਚੁਕਾਠ ਦੀ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਮਾਈ ਹਰ ਕੌਰ ਸਪੁਤਨੀ ਸ੍ਰ:ਨੰਦ ਸਿੰਘ ਚਕ ਨੰਬਰ ੫੨ EB

120 اس چوکاٹھ دی سیوا کرائی مائی ہر کور سپُتنی سردار نند سنگھ چک نمبر 52 EB

Service for this threshold worth Rs 120, was rendered by Mai Har Kaur w/o Sardar Nand Singh Chak No. 52 EB

Inscription No. 29

੧੨੦ ਇਸ ਚੁਕਾਠ ਦੀ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਪੂਜਨੀਕ ਸੰਗਤ ਗੁਰਦੁਆਰਾ ਟਿੱਬਾ ਸਾਹਿਬ ਅਭੋਰ ਸਮਤ ੨੦੦੩ ਬਿਕਰਮੀ

120 اس چوکاٹھ دی سیوا کرائی پُجنیک سنگت گوردوارہ ٹِبہ صاحب ابھور سمت 2003 بکرمی (1946 ء)

Service for this threshold worth 120 was rendered by the respectable congregation of Gurdwara Tibba Sahib Ahor, Samvat 2003 Bikrami (1946 AD)

Inscription No. 30

੧੦੧ ਰੁਪੈ ਇਸ ਚੁਖਾਟ ਦੀ ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਈ ਸੰਤ ਕਰਤਾਰ ਸਿੰਘ ਰਲਾ ਸੰਤ ਸਤਨਾਮ ਸਿੰਘ ਜੀ ਸਾ ਟਿੱਬਾ ਅਭੋਰ ਸੰਮਤ ੨੦੦੩ ਬਿਕਰਮੀ 

120 اس چوکاٹھ دی سیوا کرائی سنت کرتار سنگھ رلا سنت ستنام سنگھ جی ٹِبہ ابھور سمت 2003 بِکرمی

Service for this threshold worth 120 was rendered by Sant Kartar Singh Ralla, Sant Satnam Singh, Tibba Sahib Ahor, Samvat 2003 Bikrami (1946 AD)

Holy Inscriptions:

Besides the plaques mentioning the names of the donors, there are a few other inscriptions found on the building. These are essentially religious in nature, consisting of hymns and prayers, perhaps from the Guru Granth Sahib. I have not translated them and leave this matter to the reader’s personal interest and knowledge.

Another Structure: 

About two kilometers northeast of Tibba Abhor is a village called Rang Shah, located on the main Arifwala–Pakpattan Road. In this village, there is a building that someone on Google Earth has marked as a gurdwara. Out of curiosity, I visited the place as well. It is a square-shaped structure with a dome, but I am not sure whether it was actually a gurdwara; it may have been a samadhi. In any case, it has partially collapsed and will certainly disappear very soon. It is located at 30°20'52.72"N, 73°10'52.79"E.

A gurdwara or Samadhi at Rang Shah. (04.10.2025.)

Another view of the structure. (04.10.2025.)

A partially filled up well near the structure. (04.10.2025.)

A view from the east. (04.10.2025.)

In conclusion, the gurdwara at Tibba Abhor, near Rang Shah, stands today as a powerful testament to the devotion, generosity, and communal spirit of the Sikh community that once lived here. The plaques on the building preserve not only the names of the individuals who contributed but also the story of a community united in faith and purpose. That this gurdwara was abandoned so soon after its completion, due to the upheavals of Partition, adds a deep poignancy to its history. 

Fortunately, the gurdwara is still in very good condition, and I believe it should be brought under the full control and protection of a relevant government department, so that it can be preserved for generations to come. At present, a family is living there and is taking very good care of the building, but they should be provided with an alternative place for their accommodation. Even if the entire complex cannot be protected, at the very least the gurdwara building should be declared a protected heritage structure.

Tariq Amir

December 6, 2025.

Islamabad