The legendary Grand Trunk Road, which traversed the entire North Indian Plain, was one of the major commercial routes of the subcontinent. It played a crucial role in the political, economic, and military history of North India. Its importance has been recognized since the time of Ashoka, and all subsequent rulers and dynasties paid attention to its upkeep. However, its true golden age arrived during the Mughal period, when the road was extensively developed and equipped with various facilities, such as caravanserais, baolis, and dak chowkis. Many of these structures still exist today, though most survive only as ruins.
Location and Present Condition:
One such serai is located at Rajopindi, a village about two kilometers northwest of the famous Rohtas Fort, built by Sher Shah Suri in the 1540s. Most of the serai’s original structures and outer walls have disappeared, and a village has since grown within its boundaries. However, even a cursory look on Google Earth clearly reveals the outline and size of the original complex. Today, only the main gate, the remains of some rooms, and a small section of the protective wall survive. Unfortunately, no effort has been made to preserve or restore these remnants.
The serai is roughly square in shape, with each side measuring approximately 164 meters, covering an area of about 6.5 acres. The location of the main gate is 32°58'56.40"N, 73°33'46.10"E. For better understanding, kindly refer to the Google map at the end.
Other Serais in the Potohar Region:
In the Potohar region, I explored two other serais: Serai Pakka near Gujar Khan and Serai Kharbuza near Islamabad. The former is in a little better shape, with most of its walls still extant, whereas the latter has been almost completely destroyed, except for a few remnants.
All three are located near the present route of the GT Road and are square in shape, which is typical of such serais. The other two serais are almost equal in size, covering an area of around 3.6 acres. This serai, however, is considerably larger and, as noted above, covers an area of approximately 6.5 acres. Another serai in the Potohar region is Begum ki Serai, situated on the banks of the Indus River. I have yet to explore that one, as it is currently not open to visitors.
Exploring the Serai of Rajopindi:
Now, let us explore the Serai of Rajopindi in detail. It has a few sections that deserve a visitor’s attention: the main gate, the well and mosque, the ruins of several rooms, and a surviving section of the wall. We will examine each of these features step by step. Together, they offer a glimpse into the original layout and functioning of this once-important caravanserai.
The Main Gate:
The main gate is the best-surviving structure in the whole serai. It is quite imposing and built in the traditional Mughal architectural style. This massive gateway features a double-door system for security and, in typical Mughal fashion, has a tall arched entrance wide enough to allow the passage of loaded camels, horses, and carts. The structure is solid and strong, designed to offer protection to travellers at night when the doors were closed.
Inside, small guard chambers can be seen on both sides of the entrance. The gateway is a two-storey structure, with additional rooms on the upper floor, which were most likely used by guards for observation and security. The heavy wooden doors, however, no longer exist. The gate is built with carved stones and bricks.
An inner view of the gate. (10.11.2025.)
The first floor of the gate. (10.11.2025.)
The rooms in the Serai:
A bastion at the northeastern corner of the Serai. (10.11.2025.)
A Mosque and a Well in the Serai:
A Serai not only provided accommodation and security to travellers but also other amenities of life, such as a mosque for prayer and a supply of fresh water through a well. These two facilities are found in almost all Serais. The same is the case with this Serai, where a mosque and a well are found side by side, almost in the middle of the Serai.
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