On a beautiful, sunny winter day, I planned an excursion to the Potohar region. One of the places on my list was Sagri, a small town in the District of Rawalpindi, just 30 kilometers from Zero Point, Islamabad. I was hoping to find a significant haveli belonging to a Sikh Sardar, probably named Ratan Singh, according to some online sources I had come across.
To my great disappointment, the haveli had been completely demolished. Only the crumbling remains of what was likely an adjoining shop still stood, a sight I, unfortunately, failed to photograph due to the mood of disappointment that overtook me.
The mission seemed like a complete failure. But fortunately, while taking photos of two small Hindu temples (located at 33°27'37.54"N, 73°15'52.62"E) near the center of the town, we met Mr. Riaz. He was only three or four years old in 1947, but had heard much from his elders about the peaceful coexistence of people of different faiths in Sagri.
Twin temples in Sagri. (14.12.2016.)
Another view of the two small temples. (14.12.2016.)
First of all Riaz sahib took us to the location of the aforementioned haveli and told us about its demolition a few years back. After sensing our disappointment, he raised our spirits by hurriedly taking us to a nearby old gurdwara. The building, or whatever is remaining of it, is in a poor condition. The building was used for some time as a school but now it is totally abandoned. He could not inform us of the date of construction. But the concrete roof, clearly indicates that it was constructed not long before the partition. We found some plaques inside the gurdwara in memory of those people who contributed to different services. But now dates are written on the plaques. Which is an unusual practice.
Compound and the main building of the old gurdwara. (14.12.2016.)
The main hall of the gurdwara. (14.12.2016.)
Concrete roof of the hall. (14.12.2016.)
This heap of rubble probably was the Takht (throne) where sacred book Guru Granth sahib was once kept. (14.12.2016.)
Raja Muhammad Riaz Sahib in the compound of the gurdwara. (14.12.2016.)
51 ਰੁਪਏ ਭ: ਅਰਜਨ ਸਿੰਘ
ਸਪੁਤ੍ਰ ਭਾਈ ਲਖਾ ਸਿੰਘ
ਨੇ
ਆਪੜੇੰ ਸੁਵਾਰਗ ਬਾਸ਼ੀ ਭ੍ਰਾਤਾ
ਸ੍ਰ: ਨਾਨਕ ਸਿੰਘ
ਦੀ ਯਾਦਗਾਰ ਵਿਚ
ਅਰਦਾਸ ਕਰਾਈ
51 روپے بھائی ارجن سنگھ
سپُتر بھائی لکھا سنگھ
نے
آپڑیں سورگ باشی بھراتا
سردار نانک سنگھ
دی یادگار وچ ارداس کرائی۔
51 Rs were offered for Ardas (prayer) by Bhai Arjan Singh son of Bhai Lakha Singh, for his brother in the heavenly abode Sardar Nanak Singh's memory.
_______________________
ਨੇ
----- ਸੁਵਾਰਗ ਬਾਸ਼ੀ
ਸਪੁਤਰਨੀ ਲੱਛਮੀ ਦੇਵੀ
ਦੀ
ਯਾਦਗਾਰ ਵਿਚ
ਅਰਦਾਸ ਕਰਾਏ ਆ।
نے
______ سورگ باشی
سپُترنی لچھمی دیوی
دی
یادگار وچ
ارداس کرائی آ۔
_________ arranaged Ardas (prayer) for his / her daughter in the heavenly abode, Lachmi Devi's memory.
101 ਦੀ ਸੇਵਾ
ਸ੍ਰਦਾਰ _________ਸਰਦਾਰ
ਜਵਾਹਰ ਸਿੰਘ ਸਪੁਤ੍ਰ
ਚੌਧਰੀ ਸਰਦਾਰ ਹਰਨਾਮ ਸਿੰਘ
_____________ ਸੁਰਗ ਬਾਸ਼ੀ
ਕਾਕਾ ਮਾਨ ਸਿੰਘ
ਦੀ
ਯਾਦਗਾਰ ਵਿਚ
ਕਰਾਏ
101 روپے دی سیوا
سردار __________ سردار
جواہر سنگھ سُپتر
چودھری سردار ہرنام سنگھ
_____________ سُوَرگ باشی
کاکا مان سنگھ
دی
یادگار وِچ
کرائی۔
A service of Rs 101 was rendered by Sardar __________ Sardar Jawahar Singh son of Chaudhry Harnam Singh _______________ in memory of Kaka Maan Singh in the heavenly abode.
1 ਓਂਕਾਰ
31 ਸੇਵਾ ਕਰਾਏ
ਚੌਧਰੀ ਦੀਦਾਰ ਸਿੰਘ ਜੀ
ਕੋਹਲੀ ਸਗਰੀ ਨੇ
ਅਪਣੇ ਪਿਤਾ ਚੌਧਰੀ
ਚੰਦਾ ਸਿੰਘ ਜੀ
ਦੀ ਯਾਦ ਵਿਚ
اِک اونکار
31 روپے سیوا کرائی
چودھری دیدار سنگھ جی
کوہلی ساگری نے
آپڑیں پِتا چودھری
چندا سنگھ جی
دی یاد وچ۔
(۳۱ روپے سیوا کرائی چودھری دیدار سنگھ جی کوہلی ساگری نے اپنے پتا چودھری چندا سنگھ جی کی یاد میں)
31 Rs were offered in service by Chaudhry Didar Singh ji Kohli Sagri in memory of his father Chaudhry Chanda Singh.
Riaz Sahib, despite his age, is a very active man. He took us just outside the town and showed us a huge water tank. According to him, the tank is almost three centuries old and was built by a wealthy Hindu trader for public use. It was filled with rainwater. He also mentioned that public baths once existed nearby, but they have now completely vanished.
He shared a legend related to the construction of this tank. One day, when the Hindu trader came to inspect the progress of the work, he noticed the Muslim labourers offering their prayers beside the pond, but not parallel to the tank. When he asked why, he was told that the tank was not aligned with the direction of the holy Kaaba in Makkah. On hearing this, the gentleman immediately ordered that the tank be constructed in alignment with the direction of the Kaaba.
Riaz Sahib was full of praise for the Hindus, admiring their politeness and philanthropic spirit. However, I also sensed an undercurrent of resentment when he remarked that all the trade was in the hands of Hindus and Sikhs, while Muslims were generally very poor at that time.
The tank is located at 33°27'54.61"N, 73°15'47.69"E and covers an area of about 1.5 acres.
An old water tank in Sagri. (14.12.2016).
A view of the vast tank. (14.12.2016).
Sides of the tank lined with hewn stones. (14.12.2016).
Stairs lead to the water level. (14.12.2016).
Embankments of the water tank. (14.12.2016).
The tank is still in reasonably good shape.
Though not in proper use, the tank still stores some rainwater.
A side view of the tank. (14.12.2016).
After showing us the tank, Riaz Sahib took us to the other side of the town to visit the Khalsa High School, another example of the numerous educational institutions established across Punjab by the Sikh community. It clearly reflected their strong commitment to education.
At the gate, we informed the guard, who was armed with a modern-looking rifle, about the purpose of our visit. After seeking permission from the Principal, he allowed us in. We were warmly welcomed by the Principal, Mr. Malik Haq Nawaz, and his deputy, Mr. Masood Ahmad Bhatti. The Principal told us that the building was nearly a hundred years old.
When I asked him whether any plaque or inscription had survived on the building, his reply was unforgettable:
"Nothing has survived — plaques and such — but their sincerity still exists."
He also pointed out the superior quality of construction in the old building compared to the newer section.
Govt. Boys Higher Secondary School, Sagri. (Khalsa High School of the past) (14.12.2016).
(L to R) Mr Masood Ahmed Bhatti (vice principal), Mr Malik Haq Nawaz (principal) and I. (14.12.2016).
The old building of the school. (14.12.2016).
Beautiful facade of the building. (14.12.2016).
Both old and new sections can be seen. (14.12.2016).
Another view of the beautifully constructed building. (14.12.2016).
Veranda of the school. (14.12.2016).
There is a small but very neat and clean village, Mohra Bhattan, near Sagri. There we saw an old Hindu temple. This beautiful example of architecture should be preserved. It is located at 33°27'42.48"N, 33°29' 7"N, 73°15'46" E.
A temple at Mohra Bhottan - (14.12.2016)
Sagri is an old town and there must be many more interesting stories to be discovered and things to be explored. But my attention was fixed on the historic Buddhist stupa at Mankiala, less than three kilometers from Sagri, another neglected historic monument of Pakistan. So as often happens, lack of time forced me to leave Sagri in a hurry with a sense of incomplete work. For the exact locations, please refer to the map given below.
Tariq Amir
August 23, 2018.
Doha - Qatar.
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