During the last few years, I have visited many gurdwaras, but all of them were abandoned due to the Partition in 1947. However, last year I had the opportunity to visit a gurdwara that is fully functional, where regular prayers are still offered. This is the famous and historic Gurdwara Sacha Sauda, located about 50 kilometers west of Lahore, near Farooqabad, formerly known as Choorkhana. The gurdwara is situated at 31°44'56.90"N, 73°47'48.24"E.
We reached there in the afternoon on 23.07.2017. The main gate of the gurdwara was closed, and for a moment we wondered whether anyone was inside. However, a guard appeared after we knocked on the door. I was still unsure whether we would be allowed in, but two or three men at the entrance let us in after asking a few general questions and checking our ID cards.
The interior of the gurdwara is a beautiful place. I was deeply impressed. It was a pleasure to see the building and its surrounding garden. The administrator of the gurdwara is Bhai Gurdas Deep Singh Ji. We met him in one of the many rooms at ground level, which also serve as residential quarters for the staff.Before describing more about my visit, it is important to understand the significance of this gurdwara, which is one of the most important in the Sikh faith due to its close association with Baba Guru Nanak Dev Ji, the founder of Sikhism.
The story of the establishment of this gurdwara and its significance is given at " http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_sacha_sauda_sahib.html#gallery[gallery1]/1/" in the following words:
At the age of eighteen, Guru Nanak Sahib Ji, was sent by his father Mehta Kalu to the city to do business. His father was disappointed that Guru Sahib's mind was not into farming and other worldly work, therefore, he thought perhaps engaging him in trade would firstly, be a good profitable profession, and secondly his son would be happy all day talking to his clients about his business.
Thinking this way and choosing an auspicious day, Mehta Kalu called Bhai Mardana Ji to accompany Guru Sahib. Mehta Kalu gave twenty rupees to Guru Nanak and Bhai Mardana Ji and said, 'Go with Nanak. Buy and bring some genuine goods by selling of which we may make profit. In this way if you make a profitable transaction, next time I will send you with more money to buy goods.'
Guru Nanak and Bhai Mardana Ji started from Talwandi Sabo towards Chuharkana (now known as Farooqabad) to purchase some merchandise. They had hardly gone ten or twelve miles from the village when they came across a village, where the people were starving, thirsty and sick due to lack of water and an outbreak of disease.
Guru Nanak Sahib Ji said to Bhai Mardana Ji, 'Father has asked us to carry out some profitable transaction. No bargain can be more truly profitable than to feed and clothe the needy. I cannot leave this true bargain. It is seldom that we get an opportunity to carry out some profitable transaction like this.'
Guru Nanak took all the money to the next nearest village dwelling, where he bought plentiful supply of food and brought water for these people. Guru Sahib invested the twenty rupees into what we today call 'Langar'.
Eis bhaekh ai thhaavahu gireho bhal aa jithhahu ko varas aae ||
'Instead of wearing these beggar's robes, it is better to be a householder, and give to others.'
(Guru Granth Sahib, Ang 587)
As well as bringing food and water to the villagers, Bhai Mardana Ji and Guru Sahib brought clothes for with the money that was left. Taking leave from the villagers, they started back 'empty-handed'. When his father admonished him for squandering his hard earned cash, Guru Nanak said that that was the best bargain he could have made.
Many years later, Sikhs built at the village of Sacha Sauda built a Gurdwara in memory of Guru Nanak's kindness which in due course became a popular Sikh site attracting visitors from near and far.
A land endowment of over 100 acres (250 bighas) was made to the Gurdwara during the Sikh Empire by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The Gurdwara formerly administered by udasi priests was occupied by Jathedar Kartar Siṅgh Jhabbar on behalf of the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee on 30th December 1920. At the time of its evacuation in the wake of the partition of the country in 1947, it had a huge fortress like, three storey building with domed towers.
ਦਿਆਲ ਸਿੰਘ ਅਤੇ ਕਰਤਾਰ ਸਿੰਘ
ਪਿੰਡ ਅਜਨਿਆਂਵਾਲਾ ਜ਼ਿਲਾ ਸ਼ੇਖੂਪੁਰਾ
ਸੰ: ਨਾਨਕ ਸ਼ਾਹੀ ੪੬੦
The most important place in a gurdwara is called the Diwan Hall, where the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy scripture of the Sikh faith, is kept. Sikhism recognizes ten human Gurus, and the Granth Sahib is regarded as the eleventh and living Guru. It is, therefore, given the same reverence that a living Guru would receive. The Granth Sahib is placed on an elevated platform called a Palki, under a canopy.
The person who recites from the holy book is known as a Granthi. Bhai Gurdas Deep Singh Ji is not only the Granthi but also the administrator of the gurdwara. He originally hails from Chak 96 GB, District Faisalabad. His father, Sardar Sarwant Singh, had six brothers, of whom four embraced Islam. As a result, Bhai Gurdas Deep Singh Ji has close relatives who are both Sikhs and Muslims, and he told me that they all remain closely connected to this day.
At the gurdwara, I met a family, including women and children, who initially puzzled me. They didn’t look Sikh and appeared a little different from typical Punjabis. Their language, too, was unfamiliar. I wondered who they were and what they were doing in a Sikh gurdwara. At the first opportunity, I spoke to the head of the family. He introduced himself as Mr. Prem Chand from Winder, Balochistan, a small town about 60 kilometers from Karachi. He is a Hindu and a trader by profession. He follows the Nanak Panthi tradition and therefore has great reverence for Guru Nanak. They were on a pilgrimage to various holy gurdwaras in Punjab.
They had travelled all the way from Karachi to Lahore by train and had hired a taxi from there. They planned to stay at Sacha Sauda for three days and were also heading to the northern areas of Pakistan for sightseeing. The meeting was very significant for me, as before meeting them, I had only met one Pakistani Hindu. So, it was a great pleasure to meet this family.
It was at this spot where Bhai Mardana had said that he was feeling hungry. Some Donkeys of a merchant laden with sugar were passing by. Sri Guru Nanak Sahib Ji told Bhai Mardana to ask the merchant as to what was in the saddle bags.
When Bhai Mardana asked the merchant, he lied and said that it was sand. Guru Nanak said, 'All right! Sand it will be!'. The merchant became worried lest the saying of Guru Nanak should come true. He checked the bags and found that it actually was sand.
He held Guru's feet and Sat Gur said if it were not sand what else could that be. The merchant said, 'Sir! It was sugar!". Guru Nanak said, 'All right! then sugar it will be!' The merchant checked again and found the bags were full of sugar. He sat at the feet of Guru Nanak and gave Bhai Mardana some of his sugar. There is a splendid Gurdwara with a dome built by the road at this place. Its condition is bad and if no maintenance is done it will disappear without leaving a trace.This holy Gurdwara stands gloomily in the fields on the other side of the railway line only one kilometer from Gurdwara Sri Sacha Sauda Sahib.
It was my first experience visiting a fully functional gurdwara, and it proved to be both pleasant and enlightening. Bhai Gurdas Deep Singh’s warmth and graciousness never let us feel for a moment that we were strangers or different in any way. He took us on a tour of the entire gurdwara complex and explained the purpose of the various buildings. He also shared the history of the gurdwara.
This building was constructed during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1837. After the partition of Punjab in 1947, the gurdwara was closed and remained so until it was reopened in 2000. Since then, it has been fully functional, and all the religious rites of the Sikh faith are regularly observed. Sikh pilgrims (yatrees) visit it in large numbers, especially on special occasions held a few times each year. It is one of the most important sacred places in the Sikh religion. The tradition of Langar, feeding people irrespective of their caste, creed, or religion, was also initiated here.
It is a matter of great satisfaction for all of us that the gurdwara is now being given the care and respect it truly deserves. However, I appeal to the Government of Pakistan to issue more visas, and more easily, to those who wish to visit their holy sites here. On this matter, we need not wait for or expect reciprocal steps from the Modi government. Governments come and go, but people, and their memories, endure.
