043. Rohtas: Gurdwara Choa Sahib & Gurdwara Mata Kaur ji

Rohtas is a village in District Jhelum, just 10 kilometers south of Dina, a town on the GT Road. It is famous for the fort built here by the great king Sher Shah Suri in the mid-16th century. I, too, knew Rohtas only for this fort. While trying to find more about the fort, I discovered that besides this great fort, Rohtas has some other historic monuments as well.

Two of these three sites are historically and religiously very important Gurdwaras—Gurdwara Choa Sahib and Gurdwara Mata Kaur Ji. Hence, it is a significant place for Sikhs from a religious point of view. The third is a tomb built during the Mughal era of a princess, Khair-un-Nissa.

After entering the fort through Khwas Khani Gate, my cousin Nasir Mehmood and I reached the populated part of the fort. There, we asked people about a Sikh Gurdwara. They told us to see Bhola, who runs a tyre repair shop under a tree near a mosque. Bhola turned out to be the caretaker of Gurdwara Mata Kaur Ji. It is a small, beautiful gurdwara that has recently been renovated by a person named Gurbachan Singh, who lives in some foreign country but frequently visits this place. He has appointed Bhola as the caretaker. The gurdwara is a small, one-room building but very beautifully decorated.

Now something about Mata Kaur Ji. She was born in Rohtas in 1681 into a religious family and had great devotion to Guru Gobind Ji. Her father wanted her to marry Guru Ji, but as Guru Gobind Ji was already married, she decided to serve and accompany him throughout his life. Observing her great devotion, Guru Ji declared her the Mother of all Khalsa. Thus, she holds a very respectful position in the Sikh faith, and all Sikhs consider her the mother of their nation. She led them through many crises and died in 1747. (For more details, see Sikhiwiki.)

Gurdwara Mata Kaur ji, before renovation. (Picture: Sikhiwiki.org)

Entrance of the Gurdwara Mata Kaur ji, (18.08.2015.)

Ceiling of the gurdwara Mata Kaur ji. (18.08.2015.)

Engraving of Harmandir Sahib. (18.08.2015.)

Decoration on the left wall. (18.08.2015.)

A picture of the ten Sikh Gurus. (18.08.2015.)

Ghulam Mustafa, aka Bhola, the caretaker of the Gurdwara Mata Kaur ji. (18.08.2015.)

Bhola opened the door of the gurdwara and let us enter and take pictures. He took off his shoes at the door, and we also followed him and entered the room after removing our shoes. The gurdwara is a small but very beautifully decorated room, with beautiful tile work on the walls and roof, and also many pictures of Sikh holy places and gurus. The gurdwara is located at 32°58'5.66"N, 73°34'41.48"E.

Now something about Bhola (in Urdu and Punjabi, simple or naive). Though not rich or well‑educated, he is a gentleman. I did not see an iota of greed or cleverness in his conduct. He performs his duty of taking care of Gurdwara Mata Kaur Ji with honesty and sincerity. But I shall write more about him later on. 

Our next point of interest was an old, historic gurdwara associated with Baba Guru Nanak Dev Ji, who was born in Nankana Sahib in 1469 and died at Kartarpur, near Shakargarh, in 1539. Guru Ji spent his whole life preaching love of humanity, tolerance, and harmony between the followers of different religions. To learn and preach, he travelled extensively throughout all of India and beyond. He is said to have even visited Makkah and Medina. During one of those travels, he came to Rohtas. The place where he stayed and prayed became holy for Sikhs, and they constructed a gurdwara to commemorate his visit. Sikhs occupied Rohtas in 1765 and probably constructed a simple gurdwara soon after that, but the current building was constructed in 1834 during the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/gurudwaras-in-pakistan/gurudwara-chowa-sahib-at-rohtas-distt-jhelum).

Gurdwara Choa Sahib is located just outside the Talaqi Gate of Rohtas Fort, at 32°58'16.49"N, 73°34'23.75"E. When we reached the fort we told our guide, who was lurking in the parking lot and immediately offered his services to us, to cut his lecture on the legends of Rohtas Fort short and take us straight to the gurdwara. While passing through Chand Wali Gate and seeing the haveli of Man Singh and Rani Mahal, we proceeded towards Talaqi Gate. The whole path from Rani Mahal onwards to the gate, almost half a kilometer, was totally covered with wild thorny plants and bushes. I expressed my doubt and repeated my intended destination, but the guide assured me that we were on the right path. When we reached Talaqi Gate, we indeed saw the gurdwara right in front of us, but there was a precipice staring at us with a sheer fall of at least 30 meters or perhaps more. We had no other option but to return. The return journey in the hot, suffocating weather itself was a big challenge.

After seeing a few more parts of the fort, we again came to Bhola and asked him to take us to Gurdwara Choa Sahib. He readily agreed. We came out of the fort through Khwas Khani Gate and turned left on a track along the walls of the fort. The gurdwara is exactly 1 kilometer from the gate. The path is very bad and stony. Bhola told us that it was reasonably good, but recent heavy rains have damaged it. We had to park our car halfway to the gurdwara. The building of the gurdwara is in reasonably good condition. Bhola told us that Sikh yatrees occasionally come to visit this place, especially on an annual festival when they come in hundreds.

The gurdwara is located between the River Ghan and Rohtas Fort. It has three storeys. Though there are no religious articles of Sikh faith in the gurdwara, it is in good condition, and sometimes Sikhs come here to visit it and offer their prayers. However, the Sarovar beside the gurdwara is not in good shape. Bhola holds the keys to this gurdwara and took us inside.

View of the Gurdwara Choa Sahib from Talaqi gate. (18.08.2015.)

Three storey building of gurdwara Choa sahib. (18.08.2015.)

View of Talaqi gate from the gurdwara. (18.08.2015.)

View of the sarovar from the roof of the gurdwara. (18.08.2015.)

Ground floor of the gurdwara. (18.08.2015.)

View from the first floor. (18.08.2015.)

After the partition, a water pump was installed here. Now that has been shifted to its own building nearby. (18.08.2015.)

A closed door of the gurdwara Choa sahib. (18.08.2015.)

A corridor on the first floor. (18.08.2015.)

 A view of the upper floors. (18.08.2015.)

 A view of the upper floors. (18.08.2015.)

A view of the upper floors. (18.08.2015.) 

 

North-eastern corner of the gurdwara. 

View from the north. (18.08.2015.)

View from the north. (18.08.2015.)

Gurdwara Choa sahib with Talaqi gate in the background. (18.08.2015.)

Now it was almost 12:30, and the real feel temperature was 48°C. By then, my companion Nasir and I were so completely exhausted that it became extremely difficult for us to walk back to our car, just half a kilometer away. A slight ascent of 25 meters became a big challenge for us. Bhola was just smiling at our condition and advising us not to go on an adventure in such weather. But that advice came too late. We twice sat under the shade of bushes and drank whatever little water we had.

To drop Bhola off, we again entered Rohtas and asked him to find cold lemon water for us, as I was not in the mood to drink plain water or even my favourite drink, Pepsi. He said that in that case, we should go to his home. After a little hesitation and on his insistence, we went to his home, which was close by. It was a load-shedding (power cut) time, but the interior of the house was more comfortable than outside. Luckily, power came back in ten minutes, and in the meantime, Bhola’s wife brought a jug full of cold Rooh Afza with lemon added. Needless to say, that was the most delicious drink I have ever had in my life. We stayed there for almost half an hour. Bhola and his wife insisted on preparing lunch for us, but after properly thanking them for their hospitality, we took our leave.

If anybody goes to Rohtas, I suggest taking Bhola as a guide, and I also request the visitor to thank Bhola on my behalf and give him a message that I have not forgotten his hospitality. Ghulam Mustafa (Bhola) can be contacted at +92 332 583 2019.

These two gurdwaras have great importance in the history of Sikhs. Anyone visiting Rohtas Fort should not miss these two historic landmarks. 

Tariq Amir

October 28, 2015.

Doha - Qatar. 

Update - 1 

Several years later, on 16 January 2022, I found myself again in front of the Gurdwara Choa Sahib, but this time the situation was different. Restoration work was in full swing by the Ranjit Nagara Organization. Though it was not complete yet, the difference was very much obvious. The Gurdwara had regained its original beauty to a great extent. This time too, Bhola was there to help and guide. I don't have much to add, except some beautiful pictures of this historic Gurdwara.

Gurdwra Choa Sahib. (16.01.2022.)

Gurdwra Choa Sahib and the Qatali Gate. (16.01.2022.)

Gurdwra Choa Sahib and the Qatali Gate. (16.01.2022.)

Beautiful facade of the gurdwara. (16.01.2022.)

The sarovar. (16.01.2022.)

A corridor on the first floor. (16.01.2022.)

The central room on the first floor. (16.01.2022.)

Windows in facing of south. (16.01.2022.)

Windows facing of south. (16.01.2022.)

A beautiful cupola on roof. (16.01.2022.)

On the roof looking south. The Nala Kahan flows just across the fields. (16.01.2022.)

A side view of the gurdwara. (16.01.2022.)

Ranjit Nagara Organization is undertaking this restoration work. (16.01.2022.)

Gurdwara Choa Sahib Ji

While travelling towards Mecca Guru Nanak Dev Ji reached Rohtas. He arrived here from Tilla Jogian. Tilla Jogian is 3 kos (about 24 kms) from Rohtas Fort. After a long journey by foot in the summer Mardana felt too thirsty. He requested Guru Nanak Dev Ji, “Lord, in this area water is a rare commodity. Humans, animals and birds all are affected by the scarcity.” Guru Nanak Dev Ji then struck the earth with his cane and moved a stone and there appeared a spring of cool, clean and fresh water and small rivulets started running from it. Water spring is called “Choa” (Choa is local word that means spring), hence this place got the name “Choa Sahib”. Even today the residents of the fort use the water of this spring. Sher Shah Suri (about 25 years later) built a magnificent fort adjacent to Gurdwara. The sacred site of Gurdwara Choa Sahib Ji showing its splendour outside Kabuli Darwaza (gate) of Rohtas fort is on the bank of River Ghan. Making use of the water of the spring Sher Shah Suri built the fort in 1541 after he removed Humayun from his territory and with an aim to stop attacks from Durranis he staged his army at the camp. The spring could not be brought in to the complex of the fort despite of three attempts as it sprang out of the fort every time. Now it is outside the western gate of the fort. Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji (6th Guru) has also visited this Gurdwara. Sardar Charat Singh made a concrete tank and a room where Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji was established. He allotted an old village as jagir which however was declassified by the British. The Gurdwara was constructed outside Kabuli gate. The present building was constructed in 1834 on the orders of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. It is a beautiful building with River Ghan on one side and the fort on the other with forest around the remaining sides. The access to the building is from inside the fort. The shrine presents fascinating natural beauty surrounded by Ghan Nadi (stream), fort, large trees and undergrowth. Rohtas Fort is a famous historical place of sub-continent that is just 4 kilometers from Dina (from main GT road) and then further just 1 km is Gurdwara Choa Sahib Ji. Maharaja Ranjit Singh has assigned 27 ghumaon of land and Rs. 260 to it. Fair is held on the 15th of Katak Sudi. There are 32 windows that keep the Gurdwara enlightened for the whole day. Due to its thickness of the outer walls (4 feet) that makes it all weather house. The serenity within and in the surroundings of Gurdwara along with its superb landscapes is the unique place on earth.

The Qatali Gate of Rohtas Fort. (16.01.2022.)

Rohtas Fort. (16.01.2022.)

It was encouraging to see that this historic and beautiful Gurdwara is finally being restored and renovated to its original beauty and splendour. I hope that by now the work has been completed, and visitors coming to this place recently are admiring the building and its surroundings as much as it deserves.

Tariq Amir

July 20, 2025.

Islamabad

042. Rohtas Fort

Rohtas Fort is one of the largest and most majestic forts in Pakistan. The famous king Sher Shah Suri (1486–1545 AD) had it constructed during his reign from 1540 to 1545 AD. Sher Shah Suri was the son of a jagirdar in Bihar. But due to his talent and hard work, he gradually increased his power and finally defeated Humayun in the fateful Battle of Chausa on June 26, 1539. During the next few months, he relentlessly pursued Humayun across Hindustan, up to Multan, and chased him out of Hindustan altogether.

However, he was well aware that Humayun was not sitting idle in Persia, but was making all kinds of plans and doing everything he could to reclaim his throne. His brothers were still ruling Kabul, and the Mughals thus had a foothold just across the Khyber Pass to attack Hindustan. To preempt any such attack and to subdue the local population, Sher Shah Suri decided to construct a fort at Rohtas.

Rohtas Fort has an area of approximately 194 acres and a perimeter of 4.5 kilometers. It is surrounded by massive walls with 12 gates. Construction of such a huge fort took 8 years and was completed during the reign of Suri's son, Islam Shah. I first visited this fort 10 years ago, on March 5, 2005. That was a pleasant spring day. The weather was ideal for such an excursion. My friend Muhammad Munir and I came from Islamabad to see this historic fort.

Muhammad Munir & Tariq Amir. (05.03.2005.)

Kabuli Gate. (05.03.2005.)

Baoli in Rohtas Fort. (05.03.2005.)

View of the well from below. (05.03.2005.)

Stairs of the Baoli, carved into solid rock. (05.03.2005.)

A view of a mosque in Rohtas Fort. (05.03.2005.)

Update - 1

My second visit to this fort was two months ago, on 18 August 2015. However, this time the purpose of visiting Rohtas was not just exploring the fort, but also to see three other historic places in and around it. These are Gurdwara Mata Kaur Ji, Gurdwara Choa Sahib, and the tomb of Khair un Nissa. But those are the subject of another post. The link is given below:

043. Rohtas: Gurdwara Choa Sahib, Gurdwara Mata Kaur ji & Tomb Of Khair un Nissa

It was a sweltering day in August. My cousin Nasir Mahmood and I reached Rohtas Fort at 09:30, and already it was unbearably hot and humid. Except for the village inside the fort, most parts of the fort gave a deserted look. I do not remember the actual temperature, but the real-feel temperature was 48˚C. This hot, humid, and suffocating weather tested our physical strength to the full. Our guide was also of the opinion that it was the hottest day of the season.

After ten years, I noticed just one difference: the size of the population and number of houses in Rohtas village has increased, which is adversely affecting the condition of the fort. Encroachments along the wall, especially near the Kashmiri Gate, are playing a big role in deteriorating the general condition of this magnificent fort.

While leaving my home in Lilla, P.D. Khan in the morning, I realized that I had forgotten my camera in Sargodha the previous day. So, I had no option but to depend on the camera of my Note 4. At least I am not disappointed with the result.

While coming from Dina, we first had to cross a bridge over the Kahan River (or stream), appropriately named Sher Shah Suri Bridge. Shortly after crossing the bridge, the road leads into the fort itself. This is the main entrance to the fort from the eastern side. This road further leads to Sohail Gate on the western side and out of the fort. These two gates are the most imposing and in much better condition compared to the other gates. Khwas Khani Gate is actually a double gate — that means after entering the first gate, we find another just behind it.

View from the road before entering the Khwas Khani gate. (18.08.2015.)

Khwas Khani Gate, the main entrance. (18.08.2015.)

View of Khwas Khani gate from inside. (18.08.2015.)

Second gate behind Khwas Khani gate. (18.08.2015.)

Rohtas village, inside the fort. (18.08.2015.)

Road leading to the interior of the fort. (18.08.2015.)

A room above the Khwas Khani gate. (18.08.2015.)

On top of the right bastion of Khwas Khani gate. (18.08.2015.)

Kashmir Gate. (18.08.2015.)

 

Shah Chand Wali Gate. (18.08.2015.)

Grave of Shah Chand Wali. (18.08.2015.)

Area between the double gates of Shah Chand Wali. (18.08.2015.)

Internal door of the Shah Chand Wali Gate. (18.08.2015.)

Internal door of the Shah Chand Wali Gate. (18.08.2015.)

View of the Chand Wali Gate from the other side. (18.08.2015.)

A part of the western wall. (18.08.2015.)

Haveli of Man Singh. (18.08.2015.)

Another view of the Haveli of Man Singh. (18.08.2015.)

Rani Mahal. (18.08.2015.)

Rani Mahal. (18.08.2015.)

Phansi Ghat (Execution platform). (18.08.2015.)

View towards south west. (18.08.2015.)

Langar Khani Gate. (18.08.2015.)

View from Langar Khani Gate. (18.08.2015.)

View from Langar Khani Gate. (18.08.2015.)

Talaqi Gate. (18.08.2015.)

Talaqi Gate. (18.08.2015.)

Sohail Gate. (18.08.2015.)

One of the bastions of Sohail Gate. (18.08.2015.)

The second bastion of the Sohail Gate. (18.08.2015.)

View of the Sohail Gate from inside. (18.08.2015.)

US Aid for the repair of Rohtas Fort. (18.08.2015.)

A Baoli in the fort. (18.08.2015.)

Full length of the Baoli. (18.08.2015.)

Another view of the Baoli. (18.08.2015.)

Baoli in the backdrop of the fort walls. (18.08.2015.)

I must say that to properly explore this fort, one needs a whole day. It is a physically challenging task as well. The weather should be the most important factor to consider while making any plans to visit it. The general condition of the fort is, though, not good, some important parts — especially some gates — are in good condition. Apparently, some repair work is carried out from time to time. A baoli has recently been repaired. Similarly, a platform around Rani Mahal was repaired or reconstructed just a couple of years ago. However, a large part is occupied by the village or overgrown with wild bushes.

It is not easy to properly maintain such a huge fort. It requires a lot of resources and expertise — which, considering our general disinterest in historic heritage, is almost impossible to provide. However, some steps can be taken to prevent further damage. One such step is to stop the encroachments, especially along the wall near the Kashmiri Gate. Similarly, the construction of new houses inside the fort should not be allowed.
Recognizing its historic and architectural value, UNESCO has declared this fort a World Heritage Site.

 Tariq Amir

October 28, 2015.

Doha - Qatar.

Update - 2

My third opportunity to visit my favourite fort of Rohtas came on 16 January 2022. It was a chilly and partially cloudy day — a kind of weather perhaps most suitable for visiting such a huge fort, which demands considerable physical exertion. Though I was visiting this fort after almost six years, a very short time for this five-century-old fort, I was naturally not expecting any noticeable changes. However, it was encouraging to see that some repair and restoration work had been done.

A large part of the fort on its western side has been cleared of thick overgrown vegetation, particularly near the Kabuli, Langarkhani, and Talaqi Gates. Now you can easily reach these gates, which just a few years ago were almost inaccessible. The entire wall on this side is being repaired.

You will see some new aspects of this huge fort in the following pictures.

Inside the Khwas Khani Gate. (16.01.2022.)

Double structures of Khwas Khani Gate. (16.01.2022.)

A map is provided just inside the Khwas Khani Gate to help visitors explore the fort. (16.01.2022.)

The most magnificent of all the gates,  Sohail Gate, view from the outside. (16.01.2022)

Sohail Gate, the inside view. (16.01.2022.)

Looking towards the Chand Wali Gate. (16.01.2022.)

ROHTAS FORT

Rohtas Fort, one of the largest forts in South Asia, is a majestic and unique specimen of pure military architecture in the whole subcontinent. Sher Shah Suri whose original name was Farid Khan, ordered for its construction to Todar Mall Khatri and Shahu Sultan in 948 A.H / 1541 A.D. in a record time of seven years. Indigenous Sher Shah Suri belongs to Roa, a famous town in Afghanistan. His paternal grandfather named “Ibrahim Suri” came to Hindustan with his son “Hasan Khan Suri” on special request of “Bahlol Lodhi” (1451–1489) and settled in the pargana of Naruval. Sher Shah Suri the founder of the Suri dynasty, was born in 1486 A.D. at Sasaram (India) while died in the battle of Kalinjar in 1545 A.D. He rendered his services for Jalal Khan, Ibrahim Lodhi, Bahar Khan Lodhi and Mughal Emperor Zaheer-ud-Din Babar for some time. Later on, he got the control of Bihar and Bengal by his wisdom and marched towards Delhi. He defeated the Mughal Emperor Humayun in the Battle of Chausa and Kanauj in 1539 A.D. Getting the control of different areas when Sher Shah Suri reached at this strategic location he ordered for the construction of a gigantic fort. The basic aim to construct the fort was to keep a check on the possible return of the Mughal Emperor Humayun, who had fled to Iran, the Kashmiris and turbulent Gakhars, the old friends of the Mughals.

The circumference of this gigantic fort, irregular in plan, is more than 4 km, while the inner covered area is about 175 acres. The massive fortification is composed of two to three terraces runs along the natural contours of the hillock. The massiveness of the wall varies from 30ft to 40ft while the height varies from 50ft to 80ft. The fortification is 72 bastions, pierced with fourteen gates and provided with about 2377 battlements, machicolation and loopholes for the musketry and pouring molten lead or hot water on the enemy. The interior of the fort is divided into two parts by a massive cross wall. The upper well defended western end of the fort used by the royal chieftains and elites called “Anderkot”, while the rest part of the fort which was used by the common people, manufacturer’s and soldiers is called “Military Area” or “Main Fort”. Anderkot is composed of two residential buildings named as “Haveli Man Singh” and “Rani Palace”. The pure Muslim architectural structure that provides complete details of architectural style of Suri period is Shahi Mosque. Which façade has been decorated with projected “Chajja” over the brackets, recessed niches, miniature battlements and medallions. To meet the need of self sufficiency in water, there are also three step wells within the fort called “Baolis”. Keeping in view the art, architectural, historical and archaeological importance of Rohtas Fort. It was inscribed on World Heritage List in 1997 A.D. and stands protected under the Antiquities Act 1975. It is prohibited to damage, alter or deface any part of the monument. Defaulters will be punished with rigorous imprisonment up to three years or fine of five thousand rupees or both.

(DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF ARCHAEOLOGY, GOVT. OF THE PUNJAB)

The largest baoli in the fort. (16.01.2022.)

Stairs lead to the water level. (16.01.2022.)

The Phansi Ghat (the execution platform), in the fort. (16.01.2022.)

Looking towards Kabuli Gate and the Shahi Masjid. (16.01.2022.)

HAVELI MAAN SINGH & RANI MAHAL

Haveli Maan Singh, located in the citadel area of Rohtas Fort, Haveli named after the trusted general of Mughal Emperor Akbar named Maan Singh. A two-story building constructed with bricks and plastered neatly. A part of the structure has collapsed. There seems originally to have been four rooms of which only one exists now.

The Rani Mahal (Queen’s Palace) is near Haveli Maan Singh. It is a one-storey structure. It is not an original part of the fort and is an example of Hindu architecture and built around the same as the Haveli Maan Singh.

DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF ARCHAEOLOGY GOVT. OF THE PUNJAB

Haveli Maan Singh. (16.01.2022.)

The only intact chamber of Haveli Maan Singh. (16.01.2022.)

The chamber from isnide. (16.01.2022.)

Rani Ka Mahal (Queen's Palace). (16.01.2022.)

A closer view of the Queen's Palace. (16.01.2022.)

Kabuli Gate from inside. (16.01.2022.)

Kabuli Gate from outside. (16.01.2022.)

Shahi Masjid (the Royal Mosque). (16.01.2022.)

Interior of the mosque. (16.01.2022.)

The main prayer hall. (16.01.2022.)

Formidable fortifications of the fort. Nullah Ghan can bee seen on the right side. (16.01.2022.)

I knew of the existence of a baoli near the Kabuli Gate, but could not visit it due to debris, narrow passages, and overgrown vegetation. Now, after some restoration and clearing work around the gate, the baoli has become accessible to some extent. I visited it three and a half years ago.

In my opinion, it is definitely the most interesting structure in the whole fort. It is a vast complex, mostly underground, and a marvel of engineering. One should not miss visiting this baoli, but should be very careful. It can be dangerous, especially never visit it alone. I visited it three and a half years ago. Perhaps by now the condition has further improved.

The baoli exists near the Kabuli Gate, protected by complicated fortifications from all sides. (16.01.2022.)

The well of this baoli. (16.01.2022.)

Tariq Amir. (16.01.2022.)

Subterranean chambers. (16.01.2022.)

Passage to the bottom of the baoli. (16.01.2022.)

The baoli is a big complex, mostly underground. (16.01.2022.)

Looking up gives a clear idea of the depth. (16.01.2022.)

Water at the bottom. (16.01.2022.)

Towards Langar Khani Gate. (16.01.2022.)

 Langar Khani Gate. (16.01.2022.)

Talaqi Gate. (16.01.2022.)

Looking out from the Talaqi Gate towards Gurdwara Choa Sahib.  (16.01.2022.)

Chand Wali Gate.  (16.01.2022.)

Chand Wali Gate.  (16.01.2022.)

THE SHAH CHANDWALI GATE COMPLEX

The Chandwali or Chananwali, i.e., the light scattering sage, after whose name the gateway is now known, lies buried in front of it under the shade of a Ber (Jojoba) tree. Although there is nothing to prove it absolutely, tradition asserts that the sage greatly exerted himself in the construction of the gateway, but curiously refused to accept any money in exchange for his labour.

The gateway consists of separate doorways—inner and outer—connected with each other by a tent passage resembling an enclosed little court. A heavily crenellated solid wall, relieved by a series of arched recesses and a staircase leading to its top, protects this passage. This wall breaks bond with the walls of the inner doorway, making it undoubtedly a later addition.

he outer doorway is a simple structure, merely an arched entrance lacking monumental features. But the inner doorway, until recently in a ruinous condition, is a grand double-story building resting upon a high socle between two imposing bastions—each having an octagonal, roofless chamber in the center, accessed by two flights of steps flanking the doorway.

The actual entrance, measuring 13.3 by 8.23 meters, opens under two lofty, receding arches built of dressed sandstone blocks fixed with thin lime mortar. Embossed sunflower (Shamsa) motifs decorate the spandrels. Crowning the gateway were two nicely built kiosks, though only one remains today.

Looking east ward from the fort. (16.01.2022.)

The difficult terrain around the fort adds to its strength. (16.01.2022.)

This mighty fort is one of my favourite historic places in Pakistan. I have visited it three times, but I have still only explored just a fraction of this huge fort. Such an exercise is possible only with a lot of time, complete maps and sketches of the fort, and above all, a well-informed guide. It was good to see that some sections are undergoing repairs, especially along the western wall and the areas around Kabuli to Talaqi Gates. Wild bushes have been cleared to some extent, and pathways have been constructed for easy and safe access. I hope to see more improvements in the coming years.

Tariq Amir

July 19, 2025.
Islamabad.