Monday, 24 November 2025

202. An Udasi Dera at Santpura, (aka Gurdwara Santpura), district Gujrat!

In the beautiful rural area of district Gujrat, about seven kilometers to the west of Kharian, lies a village which is now called Sunnat Pura. But once upon a time, which now seems a very distant past, though actually just 78 years ago, this place had a different name, and its inhabitants, too were somewhat different. At that time, the village was called Santpura, and its population was largely Sikh and Hindu. Now all the Sikhs and Hindus have gone, and even the old name of this place has been lost. Today, it is known as Sunnat Pura. I shall explain the difference below.

In Punjabi / Hindi, Sant means a saint or holy man, especially a Sikh or Hindu one. Hence, Santpura means “the place or dwelling of a saint.” On the other hand, Sunnat is an Arabic word meaning the actions, traditions, or teachings of the Holy Prophet (peace be upon him).

But the subject of this article is not the village or its history. But a lonely gurdwara (that is what I initially thought it to be) at the outskirts of the village, situated in the open fields. The gurdwara is located at  32°46'35.31"N,  73°48'56.03"E. The gurdwara is also known as Gurdwara Santpura. 

According to the local people, Santpura once had a large Sikh and Hindu population. It was a market town, and people from the surrounding villages came here for shopping. Even residents from Kharian, the nearest town, visited Santpura for their needs. But all of this changed after the partition in 1947. Today, Santpura is a beautiful, neat, and peaceful village, but commercially it is not as important as it used to be.

However, we shall focus on the gurdwara and its building, the subject of this article. I could not find any authentic information about the history of this gurdwara, but its building itself is telling its story quietly. The first thing that struck me was its very beautiful location and serene surroundings. As I noted above, it is situated outside the village to the south. In this quiet atmosphere, I felt peace but also sadness. The building looked sad and lonely to me, and I could not shake off this impression during my more than half an hour’s stay there.

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
Facade of Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura. (10.11.2025.)

The style of the building clearly shows that it was constructed in the 1920s. The roof is supported with iron girders and T-irons to hold brick tiles. We know that the use of iron girders became popular after the First World War. Before that time, they were used mainly in railways and large government buildings. During the Great War, iron production increased rapidly to meet the demands of military use and armament manufacturing. After the war, the expanded capacity was able to cater to civilian needs. Hence, we see a widespread use of iron girders in buildings constructed during the 1920s and onwards.

Unlike many other gurdwaras, where we usually find several plaques describing the history of the construction and the names of the donors, I could find no such plaques in this gurdwara, except for a writing at its main entrance. This, too, was faint and a bit difficult to read. At first glance, it seemed to be just the name of the gurdwara and a few welcoming words. But when I closely and carefully examined it at home, I discovered the most important detail I was looking for: the year of construction. It clearly mentions the year as 1926. This ends all speculation and conjecture in this matter and clearly establishes that the gurdwara was built in 1926.

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.

ਆਈ ਏ ਜੀ   ਜੀ ਆਇਆ ਨੂੰ   ਗੁਰੂ ਨਾਨਕ ਮੰਦਰ ................
ਮਹੀਨਾ ਪੋਹ ਸੰਮਤ ੧੯੮੩
ਗੁਰੂਦੁਆਰਾ ......... 

آئیے جی   جی آیا نوں  گرو ناناک مندر  ...............
مہینہ  پوہ سمت 1983 (1926ء)
گوردوارہ ۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔۔

Welcome,   Welcome to this visitors   Guru Nanak Mandir (Temple)  .......................
Month of Poh, Samvat 1983 (Mid December 1926 to Mid January 1927)
Gurdwara ............................

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
 The location of the building is very beautiful and serene. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
A side view. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The area, despite a long dry spell, was lush green. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The building is surrounded by beautiful trees. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The right side of the dera. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The back side of the dera. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The left side of the dera. (10.11.2025.)

Even from the outside, we can see that the building is in very bad shape and in a dilapidated condition, but the true extent of the devastation is only realized when you enter. It is so damaged that one wonders how it is still standing at all. There are huge cracks in the walls and columns, and the roof has collapsed in several places. Even large chunks have fallen down.

The interior is spacious and airy, and is a perfect square in shape. It is a two-storey building. All four sides of the square have three arches each, with the central arch being larger in size. Even in this devastated state, it has not completely lost its grandeur and beauty. Behind the arches are spacious verandahs. The roofs are supported by large iron girders and T-iron bars, which hold the brick tiles in place. It was a pleasant surprise that even after a century has passed, and despite the lack of any repair work or protection from water seepage, the ironwork remains intact.

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The interior of the building. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The interior is square in shape with three arches on every side. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
Some of the arches have been filled with bricks to create separate rooms. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The roof is collapsing in places. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
A gaping hole in the roof. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The roof is supported by iron girders. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
Syed Hassan Abbas, my friend and companion on this tour. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
The writer. (10.11.2025.)

Gurdwara / Udasi Dera Santpura, district Gujrat.
A cute little fellow, a little afraid but also curious. (10.11.2025.)

An old house in Santpura. (10.11.2025.)

The other side of the house. (10.11.2025.)

The house is being used as a religious school. (10.11.2025.)

The Government Boys Primary School, Sunnat Pura, district Gujrat. (10.11.2025.)

On the way to Santpura. (10.11.2025.)

The beautiful landscape around Santpura. (10.11.2025.)

I contacted my friend Mr. Tarunjit Singh Butalia, a scholar and historian, to seek his guidance on the history of this gurdwara. He also helped me read the writing at the main entrance. He made some very interesting observations about this “gurdwara.” He said that it might not actually be a gurdwara but rather a dera of the Udasis. Udasis are a sect founded by Sri Chand, the son of Guru Nanak. He and his followers led a life of renunciation and asceticism, and they travelled widely to preach their teachings. They played an important role in religious history, but today they are considered outside the mainstream of Sikhism.

There are several other clear indications that this building might indeed not be a gurdwara. Mr. Tarunjit Singh, who is an authority on Sikh historical gurdwaras, told me that he has never found any reference to this gurdwara in any book. Interestingly, the local people also say that this building was jointly used by Sikhs and Hindus for prayers, which is another indication that it was not a gurdwara. The locals also call it a dharmshala. Since Udasis travelled extensively, they often built dharmshalas, that is, guest houses, for travellers. Above all, the writing on the main entrance includes the word “Mandir,” meaning a Hindu temple. As Udasis often blend Hindu rituals with the teachings of the Guru Granth Sahib, this is yet another indication that the building was a dera of the Udasi Sikhs.

The building is breathing its last breath and can collapse anytime. And in my opinion is now so damaged that perhaps it is beyond repair. 

Tariq Amir

November 24, 2025.
Islamabad


Saturday, 22 November 2025

201. Tomb of Major Raja Aziz Bhatti Shaheed, Nishan-e-Haider.

I had long wished to visit the tomb of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed, one of Pakistan’s bravest soldiers and one of the eleven recipients of the highest military award, the Nishan-e-Haider. Finally, the opportunity came on November 10, 2025. This was my sixth visit to the monument or tomb of a Nishan-e-Haider recipient. For the related links, you may visit my page titled Military Heroes.

Naturally, I was very excited. According to my planned itinerary, this was going to be my last destination of the day. But due to some unexpected delays, we were running late. At one point, I even thought about cancelling the visit, yet I wasn’t sure when I might get another opportunity to travel to this area. So I decided to continue anyway.

By the time we reached Ladian, the hometown of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed, the sun had already set. The tomb of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed is located at 32°48'4.32"N, 74°2'2.27"E. Inside the courtyard of his ancestral home.

Pakistan Army Museum, Rawalpindi. 

On June 24, 2025. I visited the Pakistan Army Museum in Rawalpindi. It houses a wonderful collection of weaponry and war trophies. It also has a gallery dedicated to the recipients of Nishan-e-Haider, which displays beautiful portraits, uniforms and other personal belongings. 

Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed, Portrait.
Major Raja Aziz Bhatti Shaheed.

Personal belongings of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaeed.
Personal belongings of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed. 

Certificates of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaeed.
Certificates of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed. 

The museum also features a brief history of Major Aziz Bhatti, which is presented below.

Major Raja Aziz Bhatt was born in Hong Kong in 1928 in family from Gujrat. He was commissioned in the Punjab Regiment in 1950 and had the unique distinction of winning both, the Sword of Honour and Norman Gold Medal at Pakistan Military Academy. On 6 September 1965, Major Raja Aziz Bhatti was commanding a company in Burki area of Lahore Sector. Although two of his platoons were located on the home bank of the Righ Fall Canal, yet he chose to move to the forward platoon. From 7 September onwards, the enemy launched continuous attacks on his position with the full weight of artillery and armour. Major Raja Aziz Bhatti and his men, however, held on and continued to fight with determination. On the night between 10 and 11 September, the enemy mounted a major attack all along the sector, throwing a whole battalion against Major Raja Aziz Bhatti's platoon. Major Raja Aziz Bhatti was then ordered to pull back to the home bank of the canal. When he fought back his was to the ferry site with his last platoon, he found the enemy in occupation of the site. Here he led his men in a fierce charge and dislodged the enemy. He covered the withdrawal of his men and vehicles and was last to leave the enemy bank. Back on the home bank, Major Raja Aziz Bhatti organized his company to defend the canal. Undaunted by constant fire from enemy small arms, tanks and artillery, he continued to withstand the onslaught directing his men to return the fire. In the process, he received a direct hit on his left shoulder from an enemy tank shell and embraced 'Shahadat' on the spot. 

 Battle of Lahore, War of 1965.

Major Aziz Bhatti is one of the most famous war heroes of Pakistan. He is often called the defender of Lahore during the 1965 war. India attacked at dawn on 6 September 1965. In the absence of any large formations of defenders, they quickly captured areas between the international border and the BRB Canal. Major Aziz Bhatti, commanding two companies of the 17th Punjab Regiment in the Burki sector, faced the Indian Army’s repeated attacks aimed at breaking the line and crossing the canal to enter Lahore. Major Aziz Bhatti thwarted all these attempts and defended his area with unprecedented courage and zeal. His story of valor, sacrifice, and dedication to the defense of his country inspired the entire nation. He embraced martyrdom at his post on 12 September 1965, yet did not concede any territory to the enemy.

The Grave.

As I mentioned above, we reached there at dusk and soon it was completely dark. Fortunately, the place was open and there was some lighting available. I took some photographs; although I am not fully satisfied with the results, I will still share them with my readers. I hope they will at least give a fair idea of the place.

Grave of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed.
The grave of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed at Ladian. (10.11.2025.)


یا اللہ                                     یا محمد
میجر راجہ عزیز بھٹٰی شہید
 تاریخ شہادت 12 ستمبر 1965

 غازہ روئے شہادت زینتِ قوم و وطن
سرفروش و غازی و شذا وکش مرحب فگن

سرخرو ہوکر جہاد فی سبیل اللہ سے 
مردِ مومن لے رہا ہے خوابِ شیریں کے مزے


O Allah             O Muhammad
Major Raja Aziz Bhatti Shaheed
Date of Martyrdom: 12 September 1965

The proud martyr, an ornament of nation and homeland,
A fearless warrior, a devoted fighter, a brave and noble hero.

Having attained honor through Jihad in the path of Allah,
This true believer now enjoys the sweetness of peaceful, blissful sleep.

Grave of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed.The grave is under a simple canopy. (10.11.2025.)

A view of the garden in the courtyard. (10.11.2025.)

A view from the roof of the home. (10.11.2025.)

The grave of Zarina Akhtar Bhatti, wife of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed.
The grave of Zarina Akhtar Bhatti, wife of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed. (10.11.2025.)



بِسْمِ اللّٰهِ الرَّحْمٰنِ الرَّحِیْمِ

ذرینہ اختر بھٹی
 
بیگم

میجر راجہ عزیز بھٹی شہید نشان حیدر

پیدائش لادیاں   10 فروری 1931 بروز منگل
وفات لاہور   9 نومبر 1995 بروز جمعرات
 
إِنَّا لِلَّـهِ وَإِنَّا إِلَيْهِ رَاجِعُونَ

"In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful"

Zareena Akhtar Bhatti

Wife of
Major Raja Aziz Bhatti Shaheed, Nishan-e-Haider

Born: Ladian — Tuesday, 10 February 1931
Passed away: Lahore — Thursday, 9 November 1995

“Surely, we belong to Allah, and to Him we shall return.”

A general view of the courtyard. (10.11.2025.)

Tariq Amir at the grave of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed.
The writer. (10.11.2025.)

The ancestral home. 

As I mentioned earlier, the tomb is located in the courtyard of the ancestral home of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed. Therefore, a visit to his grave not only provides an opportunity to offer fateha but also to see the house where his family once lived. It is a small home, beautifully built in the traditional style. Muhammad Abdullah Bhatti, the father of Major Aziz Bhatti, constructed this house in 1933. He was a teacher and also served in the police of Hong Kong during the British rule. 

The ancestral home of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed at Ladian. (10.11.2025.)The ancestral home of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed. (10.11.2025.)

ماسٹر عبداللہ بھٹی
1352 ھ

Master  Abdullah Bhatti
1352 AH (1933 - 34 AD)

The main hall. (10.11.2025.)

Another view of the main hall. (10.11.2025.)

An inside view of Major Aziz Bhatti's room. (10.11.2025.)

A beautifully carved wooden door. (10.11.2025.)

Rasheed Bhatti Room. (10.11.2025.)

Sardar Bhatti Room. (10.11.2025.)

M. Abdullah Bhatti Room. (10.11.2025.)

Nazir Bhatti Room. (10.11.2025.)

Kitchen. (10.11.2025.)

Inside the kitchen. (10.11.2025.)

An inside view of a room. (10.11.2025.)

Left To Right.
Babuji in Chinese dress, Hong Kong. 1938 or 1930
Babuji
Nazir  & Mamaji. Hong Kong. 1927
1938

A well in the courtyard. (10.11.2025.)

L to R: Syed Hassan Abbas and Muhammad Bashir. (10.11.2025.)

Syed Hassan Abbas and I were warmly received by Mr Muhammad Bashir. He is the caretaker of the house and receives the guests and shows them around. He has been working for the family for the last eighteen years and is very passionate about his job. He has deep respect and regard for Major Aziz Bhatti and performs his duties as a blessing. He told us many details of the life of Major Aziz Bhatti. He is an employee of Major (retired) Zafar Javed Bhatti, who currently resides in Lahore. 

The Family:

He told us that the father of Major Aziz Bhatti was Master Muhammad Abdullah Bhatti was a teacher and served in Hong Kong for a long time. His wife's name was Amna. They had six children, four boys and two girls.
1. Nazir Bhatti
2. Bashir Bhatti
3. Aziz Bhatti
4. Rasheed Bhatti

and two sisters were:

5. Rasheeda Bibi
6. Tara Bibi
Major Aziz Bhatti himself had six children, four boys and two girls. 
1. Major (retired) Zafar Javed Bhatti
2. Dr. Zulfiqar Bhatti
3. Rafiq Bhatti
4. Iqbal Bhatti
5. Rifaat Ara
6. Zeenat

Major Raja Aziz Bhatti Shaheed is probably the most famous among all the eleven heroes who received this highest gallantry award. The 1965 war was the first full-scale conflict between Pakistan and India, and national morale was very high. The supreme sacrifice of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed inspired the entire nation and captured its imagination.

It is also worth mentioning that another Nishan-e-Haider recipient, Major Shabbir Sharif Shaheed, who earned this gallantry award during the 1971 war, was a relative of Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed. Major Aziz Bhatti Shaheed was the maternal uncle of Major Shabbir Sharif Shaheed - the real brother of his mother. This makes them the only family to have two recipients of the Nishan-e-Haider.

At the conclusion of my visit, I felt inspired by the supreme sacrifice of Major Aziz Bhatti, and I am sure his spirit will continue to inspire future generations to stand for the defence of our country. I also felt deep gratitude to our heroes, whose sacrifices allow us to live in our homeland with peace and honour. May we always remember their courage and try to live by the values they defended.


Tariq Amir

November 22, 2025.
Islamabad